Auburn 8-98 Phaeton Sedan restoration story

There is a 1931 Auburn rolling frame for sale on PreWarCars website. It's located in Belgium.
Dave

Andreas,

Randy gave you the hot tip, we 31-33 owners find it much better to put up with a little wear on the cowl light bracket chrome, versus cracked hoods.

Love your photos. It's been fun to follow along with your restoration.
Dave

RandyEma wrote: Andreas If you prop the hood againest the cowl light bracket and not fold the hood over it will not due the damage you are know dealing with . get me your address I have a photo of your orig color combination for you . Randy

Randy: sent you a PM.
Thank you.

Andreas If you prop the hood againest the cowl light bracket and not fold the hood over it will not due the damage you are know dealing with . get me your address I have a photo of your orig color combination for you . Randy

Regardless of my burnt wheels the body makes slow progress. There was some wood repair at the doors and back, also we straightened the hood and aligned the front end.









There is still a problem with the central hood hinge. When the hood is fully opened and lying on top of each other, the chrome molding covering the central hinge is bent at the ends.

Full opened:



Half opened:





Anybody knows a good solution? I am considering a kind of folding hood support, where the hood could rest when open.







to be continued...

The parts of the Brougham are all sold by "Superod", no longer available.

Today I checked my hubs, I think these are still useable. Even though I tend to prefer original used rims or complete wheels. I am checking some friendly offers...

Andreas

You undoubtedly saw the references to the brougham that was being parted. The complete drive train went rather quickly. Too bad about your wheels, but something will turn up eventually.

Thanks Mike, yes, I already tried to contact the seller. Other forum- fellows already showed me this link. Up to now no answer.

But in the meantime I received some offers for used wheels or new made rims, more than I expected. Now I have to decide how to proceed.

I talked to other wise guys and they told me the burnt hubs could be still usable. Probably the hubs were made of mild steel. In this case the heat does not destroy the structure, worst case it could be anneald again.

Now I will clean and careful examine the hubs. If not warped, I would tend to buy only new rims. If not, used wheels could be the better option.

Basically the best option to me would be original used wheels. But its very hard to rate used wheels by pictures and descriptions. And the shipping costs of 6 complete wheels should not be underestimated.

Hard to decide.
Other opinions are welcome.

Kind regards
Andreas

Andreas,

Did you see this like from the '31 axle thread? A couple of months old, but who knows?

www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/show ... p?t=758696

Now I am in serious trouble. Yesterday the workshop of my painter burned down, I had my rims and hubs there. The rims are totally warped and not repairable anymore, with the hubs I am not shure:




This is the remaining paintshop. There is no snow, its foam!







What a bad luck, its terrible. Thank god my car wasnt ready for painting, it could have be burned too!

Any lead to other rims or complete wheels would be very helpful to me!

Thanks in advance

Andreas <!-- s:shock: --><img src="{SMILIES_PATH}/icon_eek.gif" alt=":shock:" title="Shocked" /><!-- s:shock: -->

...yes, of course, we removed the chrome before soldering.
The solder in the pic is an older repair, not ours. We tried solder only from inside the housing.
Thanks
Andreas

I thing I forgot to mention. To make a successful solder joint you must strip off the chrome first. It looks like you are trying to solder on the chrome plating.
CORDially Mike

Well, we will try it once more. I have a damaged spare housing, good for some practise.
Thanks for your advise.

Andreas

I have also silver soldered cracked housings with success, that are not visible after polishing and plating. You must use low temp. silver solder though.
CORDially Mike

It looks to me like the silver solder isn't flowing out. To get it to flow too much heat was applied. I use #45 solder with the white flux. Be sure the edges of the crack are alligned. Put a small piece of solder on the crack, with the right amount of heat you can chase the solder right along the crack. I rarely use soft solder for a fix like that, as it can melt during the buffing process.

I have watched a good half dozen people over the past 30 years silver solder at least 60 or so lamps for me (with same type cracks) - are you sure you have the right solder, torch, heat, and etc. ?

Last week I struggled with my cowl lamp housings.
These are made of brass an multiple cracked. For that reason I already purchased steel reproductions for my tail light housings, but I would like to rescue at least my original cowl lamps. Thats before the repair:










First we tried at a damaged tail light housing soldering it with silver solder. But because of the heat and the thin brass it warped. Finally we have soft soldered a brass sheet inside the housing, to reinforce the housing, but the crack will be visible after replating.

I have got another housing without cracks, but which has been transformed into a tail light. On this housing we closed the wrong holes with brass sheets, soldered with silver solder, and tried to smoothen the surface with soft solder. Not perfect results, but I dont have another solution.

Any recommendations?

Today I disassembled the transmission, still looking for parts.
Besides the damaged gears I also found a broken spring in the FreeWheeling unit.








Any help regarding the transmission parts is highly appreciated!

To my biggest surprise I found out: The tranny is equipped with metrich size ball bearings (here in Germany very common sizes and really cheap parts).

Meanwhile the engine is also completly disassembled, the crankshaft is very good, even the bearings dont need any attention.
Now I am waiting for pistons and valves....

Body is back on the frame and the body work started.

Restoration progresses, and as always, starting with the intention for a new paint job and some repairs, it turns out to become a complete restoration job. The old engine mounts are on their way to Steele Rubber for new vulcanisation, three sample spokes to Buchanan spokes,...

After I found the distorted frame rails I had to remove the body. Meanwhile the frame is straightened and painted.






The engine always ran very good, thatswhy I planned only new paint, decarbonizing and a valve job. While I removed the valves I found some exhaust valves sticking in the valve guides. This led to some badly damaged valve seats. Additionally the cylinder bores were out of their wear limits. After all I will go for a complete engine overhaul. The parts I did order at Egge Machine Inc.






Last but not least the rear axle makes some trouble too. The front pinion gear bearing and one rear wheel bearing were loose in the housing, the outer bearing ring worked into the retaining plate and this led to a remarkable wheel end play. (see pic)






And until now I couldn?t find the rear axle seal rings. Any help is highly appreciated! Measurements of the seal rings see "Parts Wanted" section.
Fortunatly its a 2-speed rear end from 1932 or 1933.


Merry Christmas,

Andreas

Good idea. This CD is in my cupboard.
Thanks

I should have said you can get the cd from the club store. Sorry
Dave

I've been researching colors on my 32. Mine was restored back in the 60's so I haven't been able to find original paint on it yet.
There is an interesting list of 1931 and 1932 cars shipped to Canada with serial numbers and colors in the 1999 issue #1 ACD Newsleter ( page 9 and 10 ). The list shows a lot of blacks in 31 and a lot of Specials in 32. 1932 was a bad year for sales. You might checkout the following issues for more interesting information on your car,
2001 #9 page 11
1998 #7 page 14- 17
1998 #6 page 6
1998 #3 page 15
The cd sold through the ACD Museum with all the old newsleters is the best money I've spent on my project.
Dave
1932 Auburn 8-100A Cabriolet

Meanwhile the Body front end is stripped down and the axles removed.
I have to say, this is the best condition of an unrestored car of that age I have ever seen. The only rust holes are in the RH front door. Even the wood is basically good, only the doors and the top bows need some work.









There must have been an accident, the RH frame rail is distorted and the front end fist is screwed on instead of riveted on.






And there are some other problems: Today I disassembled the tranny and found the reason for the bad noise in first gear. Besides the corrosion pits at the teeth I found a weared out first gear at the countershaft. Hopefully it will work some more miles, but in the long run I am looking for better parts. Any lead is appreciated.







Good weekend to all of you...

Andreas

Enjoyed seeing 1931 used the black tar inside body panels - they were still doing this in 1935-1936.

I was warned a long time ago that if the Auburn FACTORY took a picture of a car there just may be something a little different about it.

That being said, these cars tended to be very precision built with ever little piece of hardware being "exactly" just so. Basically, they seem to have stuck for the most part with standard catalog paint schemes (ie. there is a very exact way that a black car would have been painted and stripped).

I am not sure what options allow differences (ie. I have never seen documentation about a painted frame option or .... - these are questions for Randy, Jon Bills, or .....).

The colors in the pictures doesnt appear as in reality, due to the flash, the camera and the screen.

There are everywhere 2 first layers of primer and filler. The layers are probably original, because everywhere same thin (see second pic).
The very first layer is a darker grey (in reality much darker than it appears at the pic), the second layer is a very light creme/grey. The third layer seems to be the original color, either black (see second pic, it looks like brown, but is black) or red (see other pics).
The red painted areas seems to have been overpainted in black sometimes later. The last 2 layers are another primer/filler (grey) and the final yellow/green.

I wonder if there was an additional fine pinstriping around the embossed panels?

Randy,

What color should the primer be on this year Auburn ?

Hate to say it as I have looked at a number of cars that are original, though never really made a mental note of primer color - I am assuming red.

JMM

@ Randy and John: Thanks for your input, its highly appreciated.

Today we startet sanding down the paint. And we found some small spots of the original color. It seems to be every embossed part of the panels were red colored (more than now is dark green). The other parts were black.













Its an apologetic carmin red- tending to brown, as typical in these times. Any suggestions what color name it could have been?

Overall I am really happy about the condition of the panels and the wood, no bondo, minor rust, some dings and dents, some damaged wood. But nothing damaged by previous restorations! Thatswhy I am now happy about the last "super fast" green-yellow paint job:






I think the hood retainers and handles are chrome plated original, aren?t they?

Next we will have to align the gaps between front door, cowl and hood:






Every suggestions are welcome.
Stay tuned

Andreas

Randy, that is an excellent point !

There are some wonderful ORIGINAL WHEN NEW pictures out there at ACD Museum, in articles in ACD publications over the years, and posted on the website in the Jim Brockman Collection: forums.phpstack-1081784-3880776.cloudway...2/viewforum.php?f=45

And, if you get photos from John Bills at ACD, pay the extra money and get an 8.5 x 11 - he can get great details off museums quality originals.

Auburn did have a very certain way of building these cars - from the colors right down to almost every piece of hardware being unique.

That being said, our 35 Auburn Phaeton is Black with a non-catalog Silver belt and Red wheels (decked to the hilt in options), combined with a great deal of advocacy of ACD it has probably put more new people behind the wheels of Auburns than any time since the 1920's or 1930's. The flash in the pan colors attract attention.

Also, on a high quality restoration of an open clamshell fendered car I think it critical to have double whitewalls as that was all that was available at the time (if you choose whitewalls). There are a lot of people who are anti-whitewall, though they made the tires for very certain reasons (ex. they were a status symbol and ....). Keep in mind with any tire choice you may need spares that are a size smaller, especially if tire covers are going to be involved.

I am sitting looking at an original never published photo adated July 11, 1931 (from my Grandmother's photo album), of a new 31 Cabriolet (and cabriolets had very specific paint schemes) - Josh Malks will publish it some time next year. The body is perhaps Dark Tan with a perhaps Light Tan belt and stripes (the reveal is Dark Tan), the fenders are Light Tan with Dark Tan belt (cannot see if fenders are striped). The grill is all Dark Tan and so is the entire front shroud. The wheels are Maroon, Black, Dk Green or some much darker color. The inner fenders are appear Dark Tan and a frame that appears Black. The tires are double white Firestone on 6 wires.

Keep in mind: Some of the original Auburn colors are very 1920's and 30's and about the same as killing your cars value, killing any chance of successful sale, and/or killing any chance it will ever win at a Concours event or .....

Hello. I think this cars orig colors where relief moulding red not the raised moulding . But when you strip it maybe the car will tell you exactly by what is underneath the existing. Best Randy

Go with Stayfast for the top material - the old cotton is not all that good aka why they really do not make it anymore, as it will fade in no time flat (I just saw a high point Marc winning Model A Ford deluxe 2 door touring whose top had faded substantially in less than 100 hours of shows). And, they make a host of look alike materials to the original cottons. Also, considering the last 4 door convertible top I had done was almost 10K with a boot - you want it to last !!!

johnmereness wrote: I know it is difficult, but I hope you duplicate the leather pattern whether you chose black, red, blue, or .... in color).

Thats the main reason I started this job. Not making everything like new, but as original as possible, and in original colors of course. I already asked around, the leather will not be a big broblem. The top cloth is a bit more tricky, because there is no cotton based material available. But at least in authentic suare weave...

I know it is difficult, but I hope you duplicate the leather pattern whether you chose black, red, blue, or .... in color). So many of these cars were restored at periods of time where authenticity did not mean much - now it separates the men from the boys and is what everyone is looking for. I matched the Leather and Vinyl in pattern for our 35 Pheaton and in color to 1936/37 Cord (a beautiful maroon) - not an easy task though everyone tells me very well worth the extra effort.

Yesterday we started disassembling. So far it doesnt look too bad. The car is still very original and definetely unrestored. The wood is basically in good shape, there are only some minor areas which have to be renewed (door bottoms,...). Two header bows - although in very good shape - are partly broken at both sides. The million nail holes from all former soft top installations could become a problem for the new soft top. Will have to find a solution...

There is a kind of original sound damping stuff inside the panels. Does anybody know what kind of material is it? Its hard like a rock, I think it could be some kind of bitumen.



















Behind the instruments panel there is the original color to be seen: black.
And behind the side panels there is still some original leather - with snake skin pattern. Very cool

Stay tuned....

Yes, good chance the leather was of a unique pattern (and it can vbe reproduced).

Mike Dube wrote: Sharp color combination.

Oh yes, thats the way it was sold first in 1931 to a Golf Ball producer in SoCal, I love it. And the interior was black leather with reptile stamping!
Sharp dressed car for its times.

Good luck in your endeavor. Sharp color combination. I look forward to the progress reports.

Hello fellows

after having fun driving my 8-98 for two years its now time to improve the condition of this car. Fortunatly I know the history of the car and the original colours. Thats the way this car should be, as authentic as possible.

Here is the car as it is right now and in its original color combination:







I will try to report about the progress from time to time with pics and stories.
And I hope for some helpful hints and opinions.

Basically the car is unrestored, but formerly received a paint job of poor quality and new seat upholstery and a new top. The lime yellow colour is not my deal and the dark green top is probably not period correct. My intention is not a "Pebble-Beach-Concour-Restoration". I will try to keep everything as original as possible, only fixing technical damages, a new paint job, new chrome plating and upholstery. But it will be as careful as possible and the new appearence should be like an older original car.

This includes a Nitrocellulose paint job, a cotton based top lining, and so on...

Let me have your thoughts.
Andreas