Hub/Brake Drum removal

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27 Jun 2009 17:58 #13850 by Tom_Parkinson
Tom_Parkinson replied the topic: 1930 Auburn Hub Removal
Members who are watching this thread might like to see what Neal is up against. His pix are posted below.







I have forwarded these pix to Mike, and I sent my thoughts to Neal. Any members have suggestions, or perhaps the right puller for this application?

--Tom

With brakes, two cylinders are better than one.

Editor-in-Chief Emeritus, The Hardtop News Magazine, the Journal of the Michiana Dunes Region, Lambda Car Club International

See pix of 1509A here: http://mbcurl.me/YCSE

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28 Jun 2009 03:17 #13860 by mikespeed35
mikespeed35 replied the topic:
Hi Neal, I think I would try a three arm gear puller with the arms hooked over the ring that the wheel seats against. I use Posilock pullers that lock the arms so they don't slip off where they are hooked. You could use a impact wrench also but be careful because the air is much stronger than the part. I would put pressure on it with the puller and then use heat if the pressure doesn't move it. Also if you are using heat be ready to get out of the way if it pops off, or catch it with leather gloves on as stated earlier. I have found that enough effort succeeds if you try long enough. Good luck. I think Sears now sells Posilock pullers if you want to see what they look like. They are not inexpensive.
CORDially Mike

Mike Huffman

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28 Jun 2009 13:40 #13863 by Tom_Parkinson
Tom_Parkinson replied the topic:
Hi,

I like the idea of a locking three-jaw puller for this job. Three jaws prevent the puller from lopping over to one side as it is being tightened up. The locking feature should keep it on the ring of the hub. Also available online at www.use-enco.com , pages 1032-1033.

I also would consider a bearing puller accessory such as below. I bought one of these years ago and have cranked it up to incredible forces as needed. Not cheap either. It has one disadvantage--it can start to tilt to one side as you are reefing on it. The three jaw puller won't tilt. This puller is available at McMaster.com's catalogue, page 1050, from Motion Industries, or many other outlets. You have to order the bearing puller accessory along with the push-pull puller.

Pusher-puller with bearing accessory:



--Tom

With brakes, two cylinders are better than one.

Editor-in-Chief Emeritus, The Hardtop News Magazine, the Journal of the Michiana Dunes Region, Lambda Car Club International

See pix of 1509A here: http://mbcurl.me/YCSE

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02 Jul 2009 23:00 #13916 by Tom_Parkinson
Tom_Parkinson replied the topic:
YAY!

Neal reports SUCCESS with his hub removal. Hardened steel parts for his
puller, heat, and a prrsuasive Kabanger swung with vigor, and he passes along his thanks to all ACD-ers who gave him input and benefit of experience.

With brakes, two cylinders are better than one.

Editor-in-Chief Emeritus, The Hardtop News Magazine, the Journal of the Michiana Dunes Region, Lambda Car Club International

See pix of 1509A here: http://mbcurl.me/YCSE

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03 Jul 2009 03:26 #13918 by Tom_Parkinson
Tom_Parkinson replied the topic: Success!
I am posting, with permission, Neal's email to me relating his success at getting this hub removed. A photo of his set-up is attached. I suspect that the puller he used was taxed at 1,000% of its capacity, but it worked!!

Success!!!!!


8 days and countless attempts have paid off - thanks in large part to encouragement, and advice (both good and bad) from friends and the ACD Club. I've attached a photo of the final modifications to my puller. I used some hardened all-thread because the bolts I was using failed. A piece of plywood to prevent pinching and large C-clamp to prevent spreading. I heated the darn thing up to almost red hot so many times I couldn't count. My brake guy said the best penetrating solution for this situation was brake fluid - he said to heat the hub up as hot as possible and then squirt in the fluid and it would "crawl" up and in. My mechanic friend said to use a different penetrator (Zep) and he also lent me his pneumatic chisel with a concave head to use on the shaft of the puller. Still, nothing was working.

I must say, as of last night I had gotten pretty discouraged. I even went ahead and detailed a section of the hub to send to you and was ready to spend some money for a bigger puller. This morning I decided to make the modifications to the puller and give it one last try. I put what felt like a huge amount of pressure on the thing. So much so that the case hardened arms of the puller were bowing (but the all-thread wasn't bending). It still didn't seem like it was going to work so I gave it one last big pop with my 4# sledge - more out of frustration than with any hope of success.

Well, the darn assembly - hub, drum, puller, clamps and block all flew off of the car about a foot! Good think I got my sandaled foot out of the way in time. What a wonderful surprise. I'm off to take the assemblies in to the brake guy for the rebuild and turning.

Thanks for all your help - please forward this to Mike for me to thank him also. The support of you guys in the club is invaluable. I didn't post this directly to the site because I wanted to include these photos to you and haven't yet done that on the site. Feel free to transfer this to the site if you wish.


Thanks again,
Neal




Neal's hub puller set-up

--Tom

With brakes, two cylinders are better than one.

Editor-in-Chief Emeritus, The Hardtop News Magazine, the Journal of the Michiana Dunes Region, Lambda Car Club International

See pix of 1509A here: http://mbcurl.me/YCSE

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03 Jul 2009 16:28 #13922 by K Clark
K Clark replied the topic: hub
You must remember that, that is a rolled steel hub, and not very thick. You need to only remove the bear minimum of material.
My 2 cents
Ken Clark

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