Hub/Brake Drum removal

  • Neal Ziff
  • Neal Ziff's Avatar Topic Author
  • Offline
  • ACD Club Member
  • ACD Club Member
More
26 Jun 2009 04:32 #13830 by Neal Ziff
Neal Ziff created the topic: Hub/Brake Drum removal
Got my master cylinder rebuilt by a great place in Upland CA. Karp's Brake Service. Was able to easily remove front hubs, drums, cylinders, shoes, etc. and get them refurbished by the same shop. The rears are turning out to be more of a challenge. As opposed to the front, the rear are set on the tapered, keyed end of the drive shaft. One of the rears came off very easily with a gear puller. The other however refuses to budge. I have tried heat to outside of the hub, along with tremendous pressure with the puller. Also have tried rapping on the end of the shaft and hub with a hammer. Still no luck.

Any suggestions would be appreciated.

Thanks in advance,
Neal

Neal
_________________
1930 8-95 Cabriolet

Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.

  • mikespeed35
  • mikespeed35's Avatar
  • Offline
  • ACD Club Life Member
  • ACD Club Life Member
More
27 Jun 2009 02:52 #13840 by mikespeed35
mikespeed35 replied the topic:
I have seen axle shafts that have twisted, thus the key way is not straight any more but twisted. There is a puller that bolts to the wheel bolts and pushes against the axle. It has a knock off type screw that you beat with a hammer to tighten. This is the type puller that is usually used on rear wheels. It sounds like you may be using a gear puller on the outside of the brake drum. They are not near as effective as the puller I mentioned above.
CORDially Mike

Mike Huffman

Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.

More
27 Jun 2009 03:48 #13842 by Tom_Parkinson
Tom_Parkinson replied the topic: Hub puller
Hi Neal--

Mike is, as always, right. I have the type of hub puller that Mike referred to, and I have used it often. It is THE tool for this job. A picture's worth a thousand words, so I found a photo on-line for you.

Heavy-Duty hub puller



You may be able to rent it, but if you have any other pre-60's or so cars you might as well just buy one of these. Plus, you'll need it again to service brakes on your car in the future. Over the years I've pulled hubs off of about everything I have owned: Studebakers, Fords, Chevys, Willys, Cadillacs, Buicks, even a ghastly old Rambler. It's really the ONLY practical way to get a tapered-shaft hub off.

BTW, Use a heavy hammer on the anvil--3# or more. A heavy hammer will move the anvil whilst a light hammer will just peen the surface over. You beat on the anvil, re-setting it horizontal as it rotates, until Ma calls you in for lunch. Skip the soup and keep hammering on the anvil. Then you hear a loud PING!!! and suddenly the hub is loose, the puller sorta sags into its component pieces, the hub and puller fall down on to your toes which you neglected to keep out of the way off to the side, and you're all done but the hollering.

When re-installing the hub use the big old axle shaft nut to pull the hub onto the axle. Taper surfaces should be clean and dry. When you have it right, tighten the nut a bit more only as much as needed to get your cotter pin through one of the tracks in the castle nut and axle shaft. UNLIKE bearing-mounted hubs, such as you have in the front, do NOT back the nut off to get the cotter pin through the castle nut and axle. If you do, you'll find you'll shear off the axle/hub key when you go into reverse and you will be pulling off the hub again, this time at the side of the road.

You can get one of these pullers at most auto parts places, on Ebay (about $130.00 + postage--it's heavy), or at www.tooltopia.com . You really should get one for your shop. It's a last-a-lifetime tool, and you WILL use it again.

Good luck, and remember: if it isn't FUN, why the heck are you doing it? :D

--Tom

With brakes, two cylinders are better than one.

Editor-in-Chief, The Hardtop News Magazine, the Journal of the Michiana Dunes Region, Lambda Car Club International

See pix of 1509A here: http://mbcurl.me/YCSE

Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.

  • Neal Ziff
  • Neal Ziff's Avatar Topic Author
  • Offline
  • ACD Club Member
  • ACD Club Member
More
27 Jun 2009 04:18 #13843 by Neal Ziff
Neal Ziff replied the topic:
Hi Mike,
I'm using a screw type puller which is set onto the axle shaft and the puller arms each have a 5/8 hole into which I have set bolts which I've located into the 2 opposing holes in the hub. Once I've applied pressure using the puller I've tried rapping on the end of the puller screw and also around the outside of the hub. I've also tried quick heating the hub with a torch. Needless to say - so far no luck. I'm hoping I'll go out there tomorrow morning and find the hub/drum laying on the floor

Neal
_________________
1930 8-95 Cabriolet

Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.

  • Neal Ziff
  • Neal Ziff's Avatar Topic Author
  • Offline
  • ACD Club Member
  • ACD Club Member
More
27 Jun 2009 04:29 #13844 by Neal Ziff
Neal Ziff replied the topic:
Mike and Tom,
Just saw the pic of the puller Tom posted after send my latest post. The one question I've got how it bolts to the hub. The only bolts on the surface of the hub are the ones that go through to hold the hub to the drum - and they have nuts from behind which are not accessible until it's pulled. I'll look at it again in the morning in case I'm missing something. Keep the advice coming.
Neal

Neal
_________________
1930 8-95 Cabriolet

Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.

More
27 Jun 2009 13:55 #13848 by Tom_Parkinson
Tom_Parkinson replied the topic:
Hi Neal,

I, and I assume Mike, assumed that the hub was integrel with the brake drum. In that case the lug bolt/studs come through the hub from inside and are exposed for the lug nuts to attach to. If the hub on this car doesn't have the studs coming through the drum/hub assembly then things change a little bit.

Silly question: Have you backed off the brake shoes?

If the car uses wheel mounting bolts rather than nuts, ie, there are no studs, then the puller can be attached to the hub/drum with the wheel mounting bolts.

Can you post pics of this stubborn assembly AND the one you successfully removed ? Photo posting instructions (courtesy of Bill Hummel) are in the GALLERY section accessible from the acdclub home page.

If you prefer, (posting pix here is complicated until you're used t it), just email me a photo of the recalcitrant assembly and I will forward it to Mike for his input. I will also post it with proposed solutions, and I am sure Mike will respond also. Email me at This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it.. I am in town working on the LaSalle brakes and the Cord today (Sat 06/27), and I'll check my email often.

Never fear--your club will help you succeed with this thing! In the meantime, be patient, and "first do no harm." There IS an answer.

:)

--Tom

With brakes, two cylinders are better than one.

Editor-in-Chief, The Hardtop News Magazine, the Journal of the Michiana Dunes Region, Lambda Car Club International

See pix of 1509A here: http://mbcurl.me/YCSE

Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.

Moderators: Joe Holderman
Time to create page: 0.084 seconds
Powered by Kunena Forum