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Gear Selector Switch Wiring
- alsancle
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feedtaleone wrote: I ordered the one piece loom from RI wiring. Looks like 8-10 weeks which reminds me I should have been moving quicker earlier in the summer. Also, I ordered the fake plug from Henry Portz.
I'm aiming for the 1 year anniversary of me starting the project to be finished. I've been stalling for two weeks because I need to make the wafer to organize the wires. I have about another 8 weeks to go.
Considering we have gotten about 2 feet of snow in the last 2 weeks there isn't much hurry if driving was my aim.
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- feedtaleone
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- JIM.OBRIEN
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- alsancle
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JIM.OBRIEN wrote: AL, After you clean things up put the wafer and the shwitch on the pencil and gently push them together. Carefully look from the side and make sure the three buttons on the wafer are making contact with the switch face. I recently had a switch were one contact wasn't touching when the pencil was in place. It drove me nuts trying to find the problem. After I figured it out the owner told me he just changed out the wafer because it looked better then the one that was in there.
Jim, if I hold the wafer up to the switch the button all touch. I was messing with putting them on the pencil without using the housing and I was failing miserably at it. Do I just slide them on to the pencil as you show them in your pictures?
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- JIM.OBRIEN
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- alsancle
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- mikespeed35
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CORDiallyMike
Mike Huffman
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- JIM.OBRIEN
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- uconn_1965
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- Mike Brady
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The diagram on page 4 (May 12th) shows the wire separator. I made mine out of fish paper and punched the holes with a leather punch. I also inserted a roll of fish paper between the switch and the casting.....just in case.
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- alsancle
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uconn_1965 wrote: Jim: you are 100% correct. One thing I might add is before you start to soldier any wires, make sure you feed the 10 wires thru that round cardboard separator at rear of switch the keeps the wires separated from the shift pencil moving in and out when selecting gears.
So I didn't have a separator when we took ours apart. Is it critical, and if so anyone know where I can find one? If not, maybe a picture and I'll make one?
thanks.
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- pete kelly
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- 1748 S
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Gary Parsons
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- JIM.OBRIEN
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Al - Don't worry about screwing it up, it's really tought to screw it up to the point of no return. Before you attach the wires take a good look at the contacts inside the switch and make sure they are not worn out. I have seen several that have holes worn in the contacts down inside the switch.
I see one of the contacts on the wafer is worn. Put the wafer on the pencil and put the pencil in the switch and make sure all three contacts on the wafer are hitting the face of the switch. I had one recently where one didn't make contact and it drove me crazy trying to find the problem (it didn't help the owner was sitting there watching).
When you solder the wires on start with the longest (the 4 wires that go to the face) wires first and work your way to the back triming the wires as you go so they lay in there neatly. Use enough solder to secure the wires on the terminal, but no a big glob. THen follow the testing I documented in the artilce. It may seam excessive but if you follow it you will catch any problems early and when you are done you know the switch is working properly and not giving you any problems.
JIm
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- 1748 S
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Gary Parsons
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- alsancle
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I'm really trying to come up with a way to disconnect the switch at the column. But I only get one shot with the harness I have and screwing it up would be catastrophic.
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- pete kelly
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I found it strange that my NOS selector switch comes with the wires attached.
Any ideas how the factory suggested it be done?
Pete
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- alsancle
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- alsancle
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You need tiny but strong pull string. And you need to tape in a way that doesn't bulk up the package.
Hopefully Friday we solder.
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- Terry Cockerell
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You have a very nice looking phaeton.
T cockerell
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- alsancle
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Because I eliminated the plug I have the one piece harness. I'm not sure I could pull the entire thing down from the top?
I do agree it would be much nicer to do the solder work on a bench. I've been evaluating the notion of soldering very small portions of wire to the switch on the bench and then using solder seals to do the connections. The solder seals just get heated with a heat gun. The issue is clearance as the seals are slightly larger in diameter than the wire.
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- Terry Cockerell
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T cockerell
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Gary Parsons
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- JIM.OBRIEN
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From photos I remember you posting previously your switch is a "new" design. Also the ring with the loop on it is a newer design. As far as I know all the original rings were were just that...a ring.
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- George van Nostrand
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Restoring 1936 Cord Westchester sedan.2023 A
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- Terry Cockerell
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It may have been an updated design with the new plastic body switch.
Sorry I don't have a picture of it.
T cockerell
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- alsancle
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Still waiting for RI wiring to ship the new full length harness.
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- 1748 S
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Gary Parsons
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- alsancle
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Examining my switch (see pictures) I see no cracks or breaks just horrible solder work. There is grease on the end contacts and I'm not sure if they was causing issues. I have a new replacement switch but may reuse this one. Thoughts?
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- 1748 S
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Rileypu29 wrote: I just purchased two water pump rebuild kits from Cathy Portz who is indeed still selling Henry's parts. There is a website for ordering. Cathy is great to work with and shipped the parts very quickly. I highly recommend buying parts from her.
Bill Kastanis
Thanks for the information. I'm located about 3 hours south of this. I really want to walk thru the Henry shop just to see what he was doing and look at the tooling. Maybe purchase something I "can't do without"... Tell the wife I just need one more part....
Gary Parsons
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Bill Kastanis
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- alsancle
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I told my dad we are taking the steering tube out and he was disagreeing since he didn't have to do it last time, and I pointed out that last time he didn't replace the harness.
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- JIM.OBRIEN
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Originally there was a cardboard "washer" the wires ran thru that was located at the base of the shift arm (at the steering column). Your best bet is to pull in two or three wires at a time. I always use a string to pull in the wires and ALWAYS have a spare pull string in the column.
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