810 shifting problem

Glad you found the problem and it's a simple fix. Just last Wednesday I got to ride in a 1937 Cord Beverly Sedan that is the same color of mine plus. The interior was the same. I'm not able to say whos car it was because I have not asked if I can post about it yet. I can say it was an honor seeing this person and his car parked in front of my home. We had planned a visit so my car and work could be seen but the surprise was seeing this car. I had no idea and it was almost overwhelming to me. So much so that I never took a picture of this visitor or the car. Sometimes we do silly things...

Gents- Thanks for your responses! You all were right- I had a break in the wire from he generator to the Startix "gen" fitting. The car is up on jack stands so I can check the shifting without starving the generator from its oil pump, so now its "road time" to check the brakes, clutch throwout bearing setting, etc.

This communication ability of the ACD website is very helpful, especially with so many knowledgeable members who participate!

Pete

Thanks for this great informative shifting information Pat. I plan downloading this for possible trouble shooting later on. Its reading information like this that helps me understand what's going on.

The first thing to check is the wire from the Startix back to the generator. After it starts it must have 6 volts going from the generator to statix to drop out the startix function. If it has power then the drop out relay in the Startix is not working. If this relay appears to be malfunctioning, disconnect the top small leads (power from clutch switch and the other is from generator) and put 6 volts to the terminal that was used for the genearator input, you should hear a click sound. A check of the battery and sarter terminals should show continuity when this relay is de-energized, and open when it is energized. Of course the simpliest way is to replace the unit with a known "good" unit.


The other thing I would check would be the clutch switch. Make that the separate input terminal on clutch switch is connected to input power. The two output terminals should go to the shifter and the other to the Startix. If this is OK, I would then remove the wire on the clutch switch that goes to the shifter and sede how it reacts.

Pete,what is your idling speed just after starting? Try blipping the throttle before depressing the clutch(shifting into gear or not should not make a difference). If this helps the generator rpm is to low to switch the startix. Try raising the idle speed by a bit.
Hopes this helps.
If the starter motor starts when you shift instead of when you depress the clutch, find out the voltage at the startix while you shift. If you have a wiring problem(short/bad ground) somewhere in the shifting harness/solenoids this may lower the system voltage enough to let the startix switch over to starting mode.

Gents- 2241H is almost ready for its first showing at Auburn but we're having shifting problems. It has a good, fully charged battery, rebuilt generator (18A.) and voltage regulator, new wiring harness, new Ethan Turner ignition switch, rebuilt and tested Startix.

Pushing in clutch engine starts promptly without any starter motor over run or intermittent start-stop start-stop trouble, but when I put the clutch in and move the shift lever into a gear slot the starter motor starts and slams into the back of the flywheel with a horrible sound.

I'm confused as to what the trouble might be. Have I wired something wrong? I've always wondered why in the clutch switch both blue wire (to Startix) and green wire (to ignition switch) simultaneously make contact when clutch is depressed-is something wired wrong whereby the starter motor starts when the clutch is depressed and the "magic finger" attempts to slide into a gear slot?

Can anyone help this poor (really poor at this point) guy? Any knowledge or conjecture will be appreciated!

Pete Rhoads restoring 810