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Headlight fun
- stroker
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Any comments most welcome!
Pete Rhoads
pete rhoads, restoring 810 phaeton 2241 H
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The part with the most risk of breaking something is fitting of the lense to the surround(Better term?) and reflector.
I do this on the bench and then fit the assembly to the housing on the car.
There is no reason to be scared, just very carefull .
I rig a cable and winder so I can see what happens when I open and close the lid.This lets me see what goes wrong.
Have fun,
Frank
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- stroker
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The cost and rarity of my original lenses really motivates me to do this process CAREFULLY!
Pete Rhoads, somewhere under 2241H
pete rhoads, restoring 810 phaeton 2241 H
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- 1748 S
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- wcoye
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I'm new to the forum but have been lurking in the shadows for years.
My Westchester sustained significant fender damage in transit. Although I think I'm well on my way to getting repairs made, I wondering if the the headlight housing is cast metal and if so, what metal.
The exterior cover of mine has a substantial Tee shape crack running from the screw above the lens to the center of piece. Is the piece damaged beyond repair or can this be welded successfully? I'm not too comfortable pumping epoxy into it.....unless that has proven sucessful for others.
Thanx in advance for your help.
Bill Coye
Cord 2240A
Bill Coye
Westchester 2240A
Brag line: Winner of the
2014 Hillsborough Concurs Strother MacMinn award
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The glass is about 3/8 higher so that accounts for the rub.Will look into getting the correct ones.
I have no measurements for the height of the reflector, maybe someone can help there?
A friend in the US is checking out if the sockets fit.
Frank
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- Josh Malks
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Josh B. Malks
810 2087A
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Another small puzzle are the lamp sockets.
The original ones are about shot.
I've found the 27018 at Cole Hersee. Do you know if it is any good?
I havn't found anyone in Europe that carries it, but who knows.
Thanks
Frank
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Josh B. Malks
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I'm not aiming for perfect on this go, but would like the lids to close (nearly)flush,
to open enough to light up the road, not to scrape paint off on every opening and closing
and to work every time the handles are cranked and the lights turned on.
I'll put up some pictures end of next week.
I'm taking a short break.
Frank
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- Josh Malks
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The Cord headlight is a 3-dimensional puzzle. Getting it right is very difficult. Getting it near perfect is very, very difficult. Most important, once you are satisfied with it [u:1nq86oy0]never[/u:1nq86oy0] remove it again.
Josh B. Malks
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The reflector hits the lid frame(getting this all on paper in english sometimes seems as
big a puzzle as the Cord is <!-- s:wink: --><img src="{SMILIES_PATH}/icon_wink.gif" alt="" title="Wink" /><!-- s:wink: --> )before closing completely.
I'm not yet ready to grind down the frame. Hopefully a good night's sleep will help.
The lower clip holding the reflector to the lampring
also hits something.
Frank
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- Tom_Parkinson
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Well, here's another Cordundrum that I have to look forward to! <!-- s:lol: --><img src="{SMILIES_PATH}/icon_lol.gif" alt=":lol:" title="Laughing" /><!-- s:lol: -->
--Tom
With brakes, two cylinders are better than one.
Editor-in-Chief Emeritus, The Hardtop News Magazine, the Journal of the Michiana Dunes Region, Lambda Car Club International
See pix of 1509A here: mbcurl.me/YCSE
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(over)closed position.
Now to get it all to close with reflectors and lamp sockets fitted.
Well, just another (Cord)puzzle.
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Josh B. Malks
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Both lids had the lips broken off, so I had to fabricate new ones.
Missed the stopscrews <!-- s:oops: --><img src="{SMILIES_PATH}/icon_redface.gif" alt=":oops:" title="Embarassed" /><!-- s:oops: -->
Now I get to take it all apart again.Great!
The stopscrew sets against the top of the wing I suppose?
Thanks
Frank
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Josh B. Malks
810 2087A
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near to flush without scraping off the paint was a lot of fun!
I think I've got most of the other problems sorted.
The one thing I have not found was a way to set the closed
position of the lids.
Can anyone point me in the right direction?
Thanks
Frank
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