Cord shifting

Problem solved.. All shifting well now. Thanks to those who offered advice.

Gentlemen,

I am currently working on a '48 Tucker with Cord transmission and experiencing some shifting issues... I get first and reverse easily, but no vacuum when attempting to select second, third and fourth. The shift pencil, wafer & shift switches, wiring harness, interlock switch and clutch switch are all new. The clutch switch kicks in when the pedal is depressed to the toe board and the interlock switch and cross shaft appear to be working as they should, as does the vacuum canister when selecting first and reverse. Where am I going wrong and what would cause a lack of vacuum when selecting the other gears? Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks in advance

Yes, the wiring from Henry is without the plug at firewall, but keep the original plug and feed trough the new wiring, so it looks stock but has full length wires, i have bought a complete new wire-kit from Henry, which is best quality i found and every cent worth it, good luck.

Thanks for this information. I will plan on making this modification on my wireing harness I'm planning on purchasing from Henry Portz. I recall reading that his harness has omitted this plug connection. Thanks again for the timely insite to keeping these fine cars shifting trouble free. Gary

There are many reasons for poor shifting, but one of the most common is the connection plug at the firewall. I found the best solution is to have a continuous wire from the column shift mechanism straight to to the front of the car (except the clutch switch). Just this weekend at the East Spring meet, Jim Reed's had numerous problems shifting (not good on a hill climbing tour). After working on the front connections and switches, we pushed the connection plug together and got all gears. This lasted only shortly, and later Ken Clark cut the plug out and temporarily used butt splices to reconnect. This seems to have solved the problem, so I assume Jim will solder these connections and shrink tube them. My exhaustive work on shifting has also found that removing all front wiring connections and clutch switch connections, then remove the outer steering column tube complete with shifter and test on a bench. I recently found an intermittent short in the shift switch this way. Make sure there are no wires loose or connections touching each (I loosely wrap electrical tape around shift switch and plug connections). After all items are back together and clutch, interlock, and neutral switches are adjusted, check shifting with a partner at the wheel. I pull vacuum lines of the main shift cylinder and check to have strong vacuum and pull the opposite side to check that there is no vacuum leakage. I have also constructed a test light system as described in old newsletter article, but generally use a test light probe. A step by step approach is best, checking and rechecking numerous times looking for a fault. There can be some mechanical issues also, generally directed toward the shift arm loose or a dogbone problem. Feel free to email on any information or diagrams you need. Transmission diagonosis would make a great class for the Auburn reunion..