shifting problems

Hi,

I'd really like specs and source on the electric wiper motors. Thanks.

--Tom

Fred, regarding the shift wiring fix -- many years ago Club President Bob Robinson described fixing a U-joint problem. He took it apart, found nothing wrong, put it back together, worked fine. Said he, "Typical Cord repair!".

Electric wipers.... <!-- s:?: --><img src="{SMILIES_PATH}/icon_question.gif" alt=":" title="Question" /><!-- s:?: --> I'm interested reading up on this modification. I know mine have not been "tested" since 1949... I have no idea if they even work. Henry told me many years ago they usually fail and at that time there were no parts or repair kits. I understand they are a vacuum operated wiper... So I will be watching for this....

I (and others, I'll bet) would sure would like to hear about those electric wipers. How about writing it up for the Newsletter (with photos) when you have time.

Probably after the Convoy. Right now we all have to stay focused on the August goal!

Thanks Josh,
I was able to dig that issue out straight away (I've actually been a member for many years). I got lucky however, and managed to get the car shifting perfectly today, despite the pouring rain here in SF. I have no clue as to what got the juices flowing (a shame really), but all I did was to constantly take things apart, and re-assemble them.
I even got to test my new 6v electric wipers today. I drove the car long enough today to get the nerve to re-install the trans cover &amp; front bumper!

Thanks again to all who chimed in. Hopefully she's cured now.
RF.

Hi Fred.

Henry Portz is our club's Cord Technician and you should definitely consult him. He wrote a multi-page article in the Newsletter on checking out the electrical system. It appeared in issue 2003-7. There was an additional note by Henry in 2005-5, page 14.

Let me know if you don't have these issues.

I agree that the old, original, (meaning good quality) switches are preferred. Mine seem to be fine. However, I am still getting voltage on the white (#1) wire when in neutral. The schematics I have claim this is correct if #1 is energized by #5 at the selector switch. However, I can't grasp that #1 can be energized in neutral, as it is in common &amp; therefore energizing #2 &amp; #4, thus energizing both sides of the cross shaft (causing my chatter?). Yet the notes say that #1 should be energized as the common contact for the neutral switch on the main shift cyl.
Can anyone verify if the white #1 is indeed energized by #5 at the selector switch?

Henry told me once, that it's better to retain the original selector-switch if in good condition than using the reproduced one and that its better to have a uncutt wiringharness to the front from the dashboard.

Vaco has prooved that the reproduced switch and cut harness can be made to be riliable with little more effort than just cheap crimp connections ( he used good quality gold connectors from RC Models ) so Vaco is also a very good source for well tested information. ( i hope, he's fine, with naming him here ) <!-- s:wink: --><img src="{SMILIES_PATH}/icon_wink.gif" alt="" title="Wink" /><!-- s:wink: -->

1748 S wrote: Hello Red. I'm really not that up on what your refering to on these shifting issues. My thoughts are you have some cross over voltage causing this problem. What age is your wiring harness. You being knowledgeable in the electrical field helps plenty. Did you replace any switch before this issue started happening. I'm not going to say start throwing parts at it till you fix it either. I'm thinking Henry Portz is the member you really need to talk with on this electrical issue. I have been planning to drive up to his location so I can buy some of his wiring harness's he makes. So if anyone knows these shifting issues he would. I have noticed this site is really slow for getting an answer to questions asked. I have been reading lots here since joining up again. I had forgotten that I was a member back in 2005.

I believe the harness was from Rhode Island Wiring some years ago (probably 10-12 years). It seemed to have been working fine, along with all my original switches until now. I've only really started using the car these last few months however.
Thanks, RF.

Hello Red. I'm really not that up on what your refering to on these shifting issues. My thoughts are you have some cross over voltage causing this problem. What age is your wiring harness. You being knowledgeable in the electrical field helps plenty. Did you replace any switch before this issue started happening. I'm not going to say start throwing parts at it till you fix it either. I'm thinking Henry Portz is the member you really need to talk with on this electrical issue. I have been planning to drive up to his location so I can buy some of his wiring harness's he makes. So if anyone knows these shifting issues he would. I have noticed this site is really slow for getting an answer to questions asked. I have been reading lots here since joining up again. I had forgotten that I was a member back in 2005.

Afraid I'm still having a bad time with this shifting problem. I understand the concept of it all, and I am actually an electrician. However, everything seems to "ring" out fine as per all my info &amp; schematics.
I get a chatter, or rapid back &amp; forth motion of the left/right cross shaft with the clutch pedal depressed. I fault this to the white (#1)wire which is returning back to the interlock switch at the front of the trans. This white (#1) gets energized from the Green/red (#5) wire when in the Neutral position. The white (#1) us in common with the green (#2), and red/green (#4) when the interlock switch in neutral, thus sending voltage to both contact of the cross shaft. All my info says that 2,4,&amp;1 should be in common during Neutral, at the interlock switch, and have NO voltage. I don't understand how this can happen according to the schematic.
Is it true that the White (#1) gets energized from the green/red (#5) in the selector on the Coloumn during Neutral?

Almost hairless, RF.

About a vacuum pump. These can easily be fabricated in a home shop. All you need isthe refrigeration compressor from any home freezer or frig. Even a cold water fountain will have this cooler pump in it or any used refrigerator shop. Usually they wil cost around $25.00. Now once you have this black pot looking thing plug it in to 110 volts power. Feel both on the 1/8 or 1/4 inch lines to see which side is sucking or blowing. Label them suction or discharge. No solder on some fittings that you can use so vacuum can be applied to what you are testing. A map gas bottle torch works great for silver soldering or just simple soldering. Any air conditioning shop will have plenty for differant fittings. Even McMaster Car has an exlant sellection of fittings that can be soldered on to the lines. These small compressors create around 27 inches of vacuum. Easily enough to vacuum down any ac units on any car on the roads today. This is what I use for my own freon recharging to my own cars. This vacuum will help you out figureing why your solenoids are or are not functioning properly. Hope this helps others along the way.

Great stuff! Thanks Dan. Right off the bat, I have everything hot at my interlock switch when in neutral (which would explain the chattering it induces on the cross shaft). I think I have to both rotate, and adjust the interlock switch to get it dialed in correctly. But thanks to your explainations, I am able to dwell on this better.
I arrived home too late to really get in and use your desciptions today. I'm wondering how one goes about testing the solenoids with the vacume guage/pump? Do I carefully undo the vacume line at the cross shifter, and test from that end of the line? How much vacume should I expect? I've never used a vacume pump, but I managed to borrow one.
Many, many thanks, RF.

Red,

It sounds like you either are not getting voltage to the crosshift solenoid (terminal # Black wire. Or perhaps there is a vacuum leak where the solenoid mounts to the housing. A vacuum pump with a gauge is most helpful in diagnosing this.

Here below is a bit of information that I put together and refer to from time to time.

Cord Shift System function
(Clutch depressed)

Neutral The shift selector switch receives power from Red(10) wire to Yel/Blk(3) to interlock switch. Interlock switch Yel/Blk(3) to Grn/Red(5) should have 6 volts.

Interlock switch connections between Wht(1) to Grn(2) to Red/Grn(4) no voltage.

1st The shift selector switch receives power from Red(10) wire to Grn(2) and Blk(. Blk( supplies the crosshift solenoid ® . After the crosshift solenoid moves, the interlock switch connects the power from the Grn(2) to the Grn/Red(5) wire. The Grn/Red(5) supplies power back up to the selector switch wafer to the Blue(6) wire. The Blue(6) wire supplies the solenoid ? to pull the main shift cylinder into 1st gear.

Interlock switch connections between Wht(1) to Yel/Blk(3) to Red/Grn(4) no voltage.

2nd The shift selector switch receives power from Red(10) wire to Yel/Blk(3) to the interlock switch. Interlock switch Yel/Blk(3) to Grn/Red(5) supplies power back up to the selector switch wafer to the Brn(7) wire. The Brn (7) wire supplies the solenoid ­ to pull the main shift cylinder into 2nd gear.


3rd The shift selector switch receives power from Red (10) wire to Yel/Blk (3) to the interlock switch. Interlock switch Yel/Blk (3) to Grn/Red (5) supplies power back up to the selector switch wafer to the Blue (6) wire. The Blue (6) wire supplies the solenoid ? to pull the main shift cylinder into 3rd gear.

Rev The shift selector switch receives power from Red (10) wire to Grn (2) and Blk (. Blk ( supplies the crosshift solenoid ®. After the crosshift solenoid moves, the interlock switch connects the power from the Grn (2) to the Grn/Red (5) wire. The Grn/Red (5) supplies power back up to the selector switch wafer to the Brn (7) wire. The Brn (7) wire supplies the solenoid ­ to pull the main shift cylinder into Rev gear.

Interlock switch connections between Wht (1) to Yel/Blk (3) to Red/Grn (4) no voltage.

4th The shift selector switch receives power from Red(10) wire to Red/Grn(4) and Yel(9). Yel(9) supplies the crosshift solenoid . After the crosshift solenoid moves, the interlock switch connects the power from the Red/Grn (4) to the Grn/Red (5) wire. The Grn/Red (5) supplies power back up to the selector switch wafer to the Brn (7) wire. The Brn (7) wire supplies the solenoid ­ to pull the main shift cylinder into 4th gear.

Interlock switch connections between Wht (1) to Grn (2) to Yel/Blk (3) no voltage.

Hope this helps,

Dan DiTullio

I've scoured the old files for a like problem here in the archives, but to now avail. In an attempt to de-bug, and get acquainted with my car before the Convoy, I've been trying to get some miles and break-in use with it. Things were moving smoothly, but I was experiencing a slight "grind" when shifting to 3rd &amp; 4th gears. Double clutching seems to make things smoother though.
So I attempted to adjust the clutch linkage to get even further throw (and more clutch/flywheel separation), and then adjust my clutch switch for activation closer to the floor of the pedal travel. All well &amp; good.
However, upon attempting to road test this new adjustment, I can't get 1st or reverse now! The cross shaft refuses to go over to the left side, where 1st &amp; Reverse are then selected. In fact, the cross shaft chatters back &amp; forth when in Neutral, and the clutch depressed.
I have taken apart the interlock switch, and re-located the critical contact that was slightly worn. The switch checks out electrically. The neutral switch checks out electrically also.
When I try and do the recommended electrical tests on the interlock switch, it rings out fine with the shifting harness disconnected (I have the central splice barrel). However, with the harness connected to the shifter, it does NOT ring out correctly. I've also tried to ring out the shifter from this splice barrel, and it seems OK.
Any suggestions or advice? With the car running, clutch pedal held down, shifter in 1st or Reverse; the gear will engage, ONLY if I manually move the shifter on the cross shaft.
Many Thanks, RF.
If I do need a new inter-lock switch, is there a source? I don't think my folding tabs will take another un-doing!