Different types of brakedrums ?

Today i had the privilege to see one of Don's new alu-rim's at a friends place.
They are beautifully made and really much lighter. If mounted one will not notice the difference unless experienced Cordian, or if an original wheel is placed next to it.
They comme very carefully packed and my conclusion is that they are
worth every cent and one of the better investments one can do on a cord.

Don has an add in the latest Newsletter for the wheels.

@balinwire,
why would you dream of a alu Cord 812 wheel made from solid bar ?
Don Wholwend is producing them and they look like the original steelwheel, even the original full size hubcap can be fitted in a way that it's stuck on the rim without tab's or wires. I'm sure if you adapt a small hubcap to the original style retainerring , so the wheel is not noticable subject to out-of-balance. I have ordered a set of rims from Don and beleve it's a grate price/value rim and a good investment towards driveability and safety.
In switzerland we have lot's and lot's of twisting mountainroads and steep as much of 25% so who wants to rely on a crack prone wheel ?

The same is for the drums, as i have a mismatch of drums and one that has ben beaten badley with a hammer i don't want to rely on them if i have a good alternative and on top of it each drum is a grate deal lighter.
With the Richardson conversion and the rear hub from Don i can eliminate the crack prone hubs as well.

I know, purists will turne the back to me, calling my Cord a Hot Rod but as long i really want to drive my Cord, saftey comes first especialy if it's reversible and invisible and doesn't destroy original parts. New Cylinderheads and fully balanced engines are widley accepted, so why other upgrades shouldn't ?

If you keep your Cord completley stock and don't drive it often, it's fine with me but more something of a static sculputre. I prefer a fun, drivable and safe car that i can use in bright daylight as well in nighttime and rain.
These technical upgrades are just developements the factory didn't do because of short money and short production time, but would have if they would habe produced as long as the Mustang.

If you produce the right mix of welding rod castiron/steel welds are fine and long lasting but i would use as little heat on drums as possible since they would become unround and require machinework, i would not recommend brazing.

That is an interesting early drum link, those fellows in England look like they can turn out a very good-looking drum.
I noticed the other link builds original pattern aluminum wheels. I have always dreamed of aluminum Cord 812 one-piece wheel machined with a hubcap pattern.

racemettleltd.co.uk/wheel.html

If they could not cut billet with a cap they could mill a perforated alloy Cord wheel and install replica steel cap with tabs but then everything would go off balance.

How tight would a weld be between the steel carrier and the cast iron drum, mixed metals, maybe braze?


"Our national flower is the concrete cloverleaf." ~Lewis Mumford

@ Josh, thank you for id the drums for me.
@ Henry thanks for your info, my intension is to convert my cord to Don's new Rims and rear hub plus the Richardson conversion.
Further more i'm thinking about a modern drum replacement.
there is a Manufacturer in Great Britain that reproduces all vintage drums with modern types of materials and technologie.
Do you know a manufacturer in the USA that has reproduced Cord drums before ?
Racemettle ltd. claims that each drum will be 2 Kilo's lighter ( 4,40 pound ) than standard drums and can get rid of heat much faster.
Each corner is between 500 and 900 USD without hubs, which i would not need with the conversions.
Just something to think about, when drums are due to be replaced, also since they can crack too.
www.brakedrum.co.uk/80100/info.php ?

racemettleltd.co.uk/drum.html

Philipp, All that Josh told you is correct . I would also add that on #1 you should TIG or MIG tack weld the center face to the drum between each tab. I add weights to balance all hub & drum assemblies. Also read & digest Don Wohlwend's articles on wheels & drums in the club's past news letters. Henry

Picture 1 is the earliest 810 brake drum. The centrifused cast iron and steel drum is attached to the dished steel face by bent-over tabs. Picture 2 is the drum used on later 810s and all 812s. The drum is riveted to the face. I believe that the face of the later version was thicker. Old-timers call these "light" and "heavy" drums.

Hi out there, you knowledgeables,
On my Cord i have one rear brakedrum that looks different ( Picture 1 )
than the other's ( picture 2 )


who can identyfie if the brakedrum in pic 1, if it's also a original Cord drum and when was this type fitted, or is it from an other make ?
What are the differences between the drum type in pic 1 and 2 ?
please help.

In case someone has two good brakedrums of type pic 2 for sale, please let me know, they can be without hub's but no badley worn or damaged drums please. You may contact me directly : <a href="mailto:[email protected]][email protected][/url]
Thanks for your help in advanced, Philipp <!-- s:?: --><img src="{SMILIES_PATH}/icon_question.gif" alt=":" title="Question" /><!-- s:?: -->