Removal of Spinning Front Wheel Bearing Lub. Plug

I like that Tom, good retort.
CORDially Mike

LOL, Mike.

They're not gasping for air. Like a croc waiting for dinner, they are just poised to gobble up the next L-29 that rolls by...

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--Tom

It must be another one of my delusions but each time I tour with 810,812's and we stop, they look like a row of alligators with there hoods open gasping for air. All in good fun.
CORDially Mike

Well, I guess their cars are , hmmm..., [i:7gjbpjli]nice[/i:7gjbpjli], also.

LOL,

---Tom

I had not responded before because of my high regard for Mike. He and Dick Greene share this delusion.

It took you long enough!
CORDially Mike

Wait a second---back up. 810's and 812's are not "Real Cords?"

Hunh?

Ric , As always you are very correct ! As you stated the 1/8 pipe plug in the outboard end of the outer joint is the intended point to lube the joint &amp; wheel bearing (see service bulletins #13 Jan31,1936 &amp; #8 Jan20,1937). Service bulletin #16 Feb 25,1636 (their typo) says not to try to lube through the upper spindle pin. Back in the olden days (1948) when we drove our Cords because it the only car we had ,if the grease wasn't coming out on the tires ,it was because there wasn't any in there!

Hi! Subject to correction, I believe there is only 1 plug to be used for greasing the outer U-joint. That is the one in the centre of the axle. Behind the cotter pin that stops the wheel nut from loosening. (Mine use a 1 7/16 size wrench). On top of the housing there is supposed to be an expansion cylinder (threaded into the upper king-pin) It should have a copper tube coming out the top, fastened to the yoke heading toward the floor. I understand the joints were designed to run in gear oil, and this is the reservoir for the oil when it expanded due to heat. I also understand that this wasn't too successful, with lots of oil coming out in other areas making both sides of your tire well oiled. You are using two sided whitewall tires?? Most cars now have a very tempting grease fitting put into the upper king pin. Very tempting, but any grease put in here will just lubricate the outside of your joint, leaving the balls to wear until the heat melts the grease so it can flow to where the balls and raceways are. Later housings were made with a small pipe-plug (I believe I could find measurements if coaxed, as I added them to my early joint housings) This is to check for fullness. You add grease or originally oil until it comes out here, then you know you have enough. The other way is to add enough grease until it flies out over your whitewalls and then try and take some out. If you don't put enough in, you will always have clean whitewalls. This is good knowledge if you are only planning to drive from the trailer to the judging field. I on the other hand hope to use my Cord for all manner of activities, thus I may have grease marks on my whitewalls periodically. If I could figure out how to post pictures, I could send many, as I just finished that part of my restoration. All the best, Ric.

When taping the threads put grease on the tap to hold the shavings. I would be concerned about any shavings that got in the joint when you drilled it out!
CORDially Mike

Bill, The only plugs that I know of out there where you are talking about are 1/8-27 NPT. There are four. One in the outer end of the u/j (original joint) , one in the top &amp; bottom king pins &amp; one in the front of the late outer u/j housings. Be careful about running this front plug in deeper as it may interfere with the bell on the inside . Henry

The plug came out quite easily by drilling a small hole and then using an easy-out type bit which has reverse threads.

Does someone know what the threads are on the plug's receptical so I can run the correct tap through ?

Bill

Could you run the screw in enough to chase the outside damaged threads with a tap and then try running the screw out?

Thanks Mike. I'll consider your suggestion. I was going to drill a small hole and then use an easy-out (which has the threads backwards) which I've used for broken bolts and screws. Bill

Since none of the 810-812 guys have any comments I'll try my hand. Before you drill it all the way through, why not drill a deep enough hole to tap the hole and install a screw,small bolt etc. and pull out on the plug while turning it. I'm not that familiar with 810 812 Cords, only the REAL ones so take the suggestion for what it's worth.
CORDially Mike

I have one front wheel bearing / outer universal lubrication point PLUG that turns out 1&amp;1/2 turns and then spins. Any trick / tool to use to remove before I resort to drilling it out ?

Thanks !

Bill McLaughlin