Most common Engine Oil and Engine coolant used

Before you change to Rotella, be aware that due to the '08 diesel emission reg changes, diesel oils have gone from CI to CJ (last October) and have also had their chemistry substantially altered. If you can still find CI it's great but the CJ has lost zinc as well as other normal EP additives, just like gasoline engine oils.

There's quite a debate in the trucking industry about whether old trucks should run CJ or stick with CH, which can still be purchased in drums. Also not sure if additives will help bring back the EP additives for older engines.

Thanks to one and all for your replies as they have been very helpful and alot to ponder. As I have reviewed many articles and past newsletters on the subject of Oil's, Lubricants and Coolants. Not that I have any clear path to follow but I do feel I have a better understanding.
Once again Thank You!

CASTROL SYNTEC SAE 5W-50; PEAK "SIERRA" COOLANT. MOLY ADDITIVE IN TRANSAXLE. 24 CONSECUTIVE YEARS DRIVEN TO AUBURN.

ENGINE DOESN'T LEAK. TRANS. ALWAYS HAS AND STILL DOES.

Mac,

Take some time and review the old posts on this forum. There has been several threads on engine oil over the last few years. I'm sure it will be interesting reading and give you plenty to think about.

Jim

I know something about old aluminum water cooled engines, working with Land Rovers (Buick 215) everyday.

Dexcool is good stuff for them. Otherwise it's important to change out regular coolant about every 1-2 years. Ph factor is the problem, and aluminum engines that do not keep the prestone changed out will develop silicate deposits that clog radiator tubes. Dexcool will prevent that, and can be kept in longer. But if you're nervous, use prestone and change it often.

On the oils: I've seen stuff on 90wt, especially attacking brass, but if you use GL5 (hypoid) there's apparently no problem. I too have seen the near hysteria over engine oils, and wonder if [i:3geovutt]any[/i:3geovutt] of it is based on sound info.

As posted earlier the panic over unleaeded gas was a good experience. The Brits went through the same thing 20 years later, but simply refused to listen to the US experience and learn from it. Here in California we had been running old British cars on unleaded for a long time, and you'd think that info would have been welcomed. Human nature defaults to worry and complaint rather than sound analysis.

I'll stick with using regular 10w-30 and changing it often in my old V8 until I can see a reason to switch. From my experience mechanical faults attributed to poor lubrication have turned out to be defective parts, and with reproduction stuff that seems to be the bigger problem.

29AV8

What bothers me most is the subtle changes that are made that turn out to be not so subtle. I'm not an engineer, but the motor oil issue appears to be an EPA mandated reduction in a zinc compound. That is probably inconsequential to engines manufactured in the last 25 years, but to our engines, with bearing surfaces and metals, which pre-date that, the lack of zinc is apparently causing lots of problems.
On the other hand, one doesn't want to over-react, as we did when lead was removed from gasoline. While that didn't turn out to be the humpty dumpty issue it was originally thought to become, I think there is universal agreement that gasoline today is not as stable for our older cars as the gasoline they were designed to run on.
More will be learned about Dex Cool as it remains in the marketplace. I do have concerns about the reported effects on gaskets, but fear experience will show it to damage certain metals. Like aluminum, which 810-812 Cords have in abundance in their engines.

Tom Clarke

Thanks Tom,
Last year I Acquired a 812 n/sc that was completely restored and has only 500 miles on engine and restoration. I changed the oil and Anti freeze
at the end of summer and replaced them with what previous owner had used which was Castrol 10w30 Synthetic and Dex-cool.
The oil seems to be okay as oil pressure is up and stable.
It's the Dex-cool that concerns me as I have read many bad and a few good reports on this product. I'm new to all this and just trying to gather as much info as possible. Thanks Again

OK, I'll go first. I have always used standard Prestone (green) coolant in my Cord. And I have always used Havoline #30 motor oil.
In a post a few months back, I talked about a Tech Forum at the Studebaker Drivers Club annual in September where it was suggested that we use "combustion" engine motor oil. Essentially Shell Rotella, used in diesel engines. Josh Malks referred me to an article from a 2004 ACD Newsletter that agreed with the recommendation of the ACD meet. I am yet to drain the Havoline in the Cord and replace it, but intend to do so.
I am in process of restoring a 1962 Stude GT Hawk, and that is the first vehicle in which I have used Extended Life Coolant. It is the first car in several years in which I have totally rebuilt the engine, and it seemed a good one to use the new coolant in.

Tom Clarke

What is the most common Motor Oil and Engine coolant used by owners of 810 & 812 Cords.
I have seen and read alot on this topic on the Specs and Chemistry of these topics. Which sometimes leads to total confusion.
I'm just curious if anyone knows what are the most common modern brand products of these that are used in restored engines.