1931 Steering wheel remove - help needed

An aircraft A&P I know uses a 50/50 mix of WD 40 & Marvel Mystery Oil. Main reason for WD is it's easy to find in gallon cans. The trans fluid or MMO just keeps the penetrating agent there long enough to do its job. I use this exclusively where a shot or two of Liquid Wrench doesn't do it.

Combining this mix with patience has given me good results over the years.

I am not sure Mike. I frequent the AACA website often, the general consensus is this concoction if heat cannot be applied and bees wax if heat is used. I have never been foiled in extracting the intake / exhaust manifold studs from a block using this method. I have done at least a dozen. If the part is small enough, heat it cherry red and throw it in a bucket of water. You will almost be able to take it apart with your fingers.

Curt, Since acetone evaporates so fast I don't understand how it would work for any period of time ie. leaving the item soak.
CORDially Mike

Penetrating Oils

Machinist's Workshop Mag recently published some information on various penetrating oils that I found very interesting. Some of you might appreciate this. The magazine reports they tested penetrates for break out torque on rusted nuts.

They are below, as forwarded by an ex-student and professional machinist. They arranged a subjective test of all the popular penetrates with the control being the torque required to remove the nut from a "scientifically rusted" environment.


Penetrating oil Average load
None 516 pounds
WD-40 238 pounds
PB Blaster 214 pounds
Liquid Wrench 127 pounds
Kano Kroil 106 pounds
ATF-Acetone mix 53 pounds


The ATF-Acetone mix was a "home brew" mix of 50 - 50 automatic transmission fluid and acetone. Note the "home brew" was better than any commercial product in this one particular test.

Our local machinist group mixed up a batch and we all now use it with equally good results.

Note also that "Liquid Wrench" is almost as good as "Kroil" for about 20% of the price.

Steve from Godwin-Singer says that ATF-Acetone mix is the best and you can also use ATF- lacquer thinner 50 - 50 mix.

ATF=Automatic Transmission Fluid

Aerokroil is a much better penatrating oil than WD40. Its made by Kano Labs and they have a great web site. You buy 2 cans of most anything they sell. If you don't like it send back the full can and keep the opened can. Get a full refund.. I know of nobody that has ever sent back a can. they are that good of a product. Some high end gunsmiths shops have this on the shelf too.

Thanks a lot, Steve and David. I will try it again, as Steve suggested.

My pictures are not too good but I think you can get a good idea.

Andreas:
The retaining ring is screwed into a threaded steel cup. It unscrews counter clockwise. It is just stuck in the cup. Spray a generous amount of WD40 in the gap at the side between the retaining ring and the steering wheel itself. Hopefully some of it will splatter up into those threads. Let that set for a while and then grab the retaining ring with both hands around it's perimeter and try turning it both directions until you feel it move a little. Rubber gloves will help your grip. Then unscrew it counter clockwise.
Kindest regards,
Steve Stevens

With the help of a friend now I know the kind of horn button assembly, thanks Greg.
Unfortunatly I wasnt able to turn the retaining ring even a fraction of an inch. As new retaining rings are actually not available at our local Napa Store, I am still helpless... :rolleyes:

Hello dear folks,

I need to remove my steering wheel. I read some threads about this here in the forum, but didnt get it right, probably because of my rubbish english, sorry.

First I have to remove the horn button. This button seems to be held on by the horn button retaining ring. I tried to turn off this retaining ring off the steering wheel with a kind of oil filter wrench. But without success. These parts are made of plastic and there is not much meat to grip.
The horn button moves free, but the retaining ring is 100% tight at the steering wheel.

Another fellow recommands to grind of the outer edge of the horn button (which is not visible when installed) with a dremel, but I could not reach this edge.

I would love to see the horn button retaining ring and the steering wheel disassembled, and from the back side.

Hopefully somebody can show me how these parts are assembled and tell me the secret how to remove these parts without damage.

Thanks a lot,

Andreas


BTW: Any suggestions where to find an original looking steering column seal? Mine broke off, hard like a stone....