Auburn Elecrical Questions

I converted it to a starter solenoid - the problem with the Startix is that if you stall the car and it tries to restart itself most people are not use to such and get all flustered (ie. not an intuitive process) - and that is when you rear end the car in front of you.

Got the car running today with Startix. The Startix now works perfectly. Next project is wiring harnesses and brakes.

The folks @ Fremont Auto Parts know these cars very well.

Thanks for the help. I will call them.

I rewired my car last year and hooked back up the Startex, works great. I did rewire my car exactly to the wiring diagram, this is important. My engine was rebuilt by Fremont Auto parts, 419-332-8296, Jason is great there, and we all know John Forsythe who works there. They rebuilt my Startex, the generator, I rebiult my Startex switch. My car started yesterday on the second crack, after 4 months of winter rest, so it does work. Now for the but, as I understand it, you want the 2 solinoids working in the Startex and you want the adjustment screw just so. I am not a mechanic, but as I understand it, you wnat the bits working just so. Fuel pressue is important, so I use an electric pump to suppliment my mechanical, this helps prevent vapor lock on hot summer days, I keep the battery turned off when parked, and so far, so good. Good luck.

This is what I just noticed on my ignition. I have a 3 terminal ignition switch with Accessory, Coil and Ammeter. I see electrical schematics for both 3 and 4 terminal ignition in my literature. I believe the 4 terminal is for the electrolock. I no longer have the electrolock so I am assuming that my 3 terminal ignition is correct. There is no Startix terminal or Start terminal on my ignition. Can you tell me which wires are going to each terminal on the ignition? I am assuming that you turn the switch to the right and then all the way to the left after the car starts. Is that correct? Is it possible that my ignition switch is not correct?

I am convinced. I am going to change my plans and use the Startix. I like your idea on how to disengage. That was my concern. I may have another question as I try it out. Thanks

I use my startix with no problems. I start it on startix and then turn the switch to ign. so the startix won't self start. Thats a 35 Auburn.
CORDially Mike

Nick,

I think you'll find most of us still have the Startix hooked up and have no major problems with it. Are they a necessary thing? No, but others besides A, C & D used them, they are not an unknown quantity.

I finally got my 1933 8-105 Cabriolet running. It runs great. The engine was rebuilt thirty years ago and never started. It really sounds strong. I am now looking to do the electrical. Although I have the Startix in the car, I have been told that they are more of a nuisance that something that is practical. I have deided to bypass the Startix system. Here is how I am proceeding. I have some questions next to each numbered area. I welcome comments as well as answers to my questions:
1) I am using an old style Ford 6 Volt Solenoid. It is wired as follows: Battery to Solenoid and Solenoid to Sarter. No issues here.
2) Generator and Relay: Wire from Ammeter to Generator. There is also an internal wire going to the opposite side of the Generator/Relay. Is that all that is needed on the generator? Any additional grounds? Any other wires?
3) Ignition: Is the Ignition for the Startix system usable for this type of set up. I am planning on adding a starter button. Not sure if the ignition needs to be changed.

I have a couple of additional questions but will post separately. Thank you