Oil filler tube

The lacing is kind of like the hood lacing in that it seems brown and heavy woven, though it is very thin - perhaps 1/16 inch thick from what I saw.

Also known as "anti-squeak"

red.auburn851 wrote: What kind of lacing?

Marcus

1/16 x 3/4 similar to the glove box strap.

What kind of lacing?

Marcus

I have beena ble to get my hand up there and hold the bolt. when doing that project a helper is a good thing. You know there is lacing that sandwiches between those pans and the frame. Including the front air shield.

For Coil I used Dupli-Color Acrylic Enamel, Machinery Gray DA1612 (and it looks GREAT !).

As to the engine pans - I am painting the set up right now. I did go with gloss so that they would wipe up easier (yes, I know they were probably chassic black just like the frame).

As to the triangular engine pan on the driver's side by the radiator filler (the 36 s/c Pheaton had both the triangular ones and I bought the other 3 from Curt) someone along the way did something rather unique - they cut the one a touch to clear the spring snubbers and then put the bolt in with put a jam nut on the underside - and then they bolted pans on. The thin jam nut gives the bolt some grip and if you put an "inside" star washer under jam nut you would get even more advantage and I doubt anyone would notice. And, yes I bought a whole set of "N" bolts for their installation - Curt reproduces now.

I had to remove the small dust cover in order to access the radiator drain. Had to cut the bolt off, even though it wasn't rusted. I can see why these covers were left off by the owners in the past.

Mark

Guys: Slightly off subject, but this has been bugging me...

When I installed the dust pans under my cabriolet, it was done after the engine was in place. I have a feeling that the factory put these in before the engine was dropped onto the frame. My observation: If you need to take the dust pans down for any reason, it's really difficult, because the bolts are installed threaded end down. The bolts spin when you try to remove the nuts, and it's near impossible to reach the bolt heads.

I'm thinking of tack-welding the bolts in place on a different car, just to eliminate that future problem.

Any ideas?

Mark

I thought that was Mark - We just exchanged an e-mail off the forum a minute ago - As you know he was the one that got us going on the nuts and bolts all being exactly correct. I think we can get him onto the 100% band wagon of cars that set new standards for correctness. Equally, as you know my dad was the first person to cry that if I did it just like the factory it would be "not all that exciting" - he changed his mind when he saw the 36 Phaeton - pretty spectacular and actually a ton more interesting than people's mirror paint and polished stainless.

ilikescars wrote: engine color on the ign. coil? Thought it was black.

I have a CE4001G coil that is battleship grey (not repainted, original)
There is an old pix of a speedster with a light colored coil. That being said, the coil on my cars are black. But if you see a grey one don't knock him.

John, I really appreciate the kind words. I do have to say that Mark is one of the most anal restorers that I know. and that is a COMPLEMENT to Mark. He might say 'yuk' now to the green oil filler cap, but check his car out when it is Auburn.

No, it is sort of a medium grey sandable primer color (not light grey and not approaching black). I would call it a medium grey with a hint of blue in it. I matched photos Curt sent me of an original and found a nice gloss spay color at the autoparts store. Shoot me an e-mail and I will get you a photo - will take some coming up: <a href="mailto:[email protected]][email protected][/url]
JMM

engine color on the ign. coil? Thought it was black.

As you may or may not know a few of us are pushing a new standard for correct: That standard is called "really correct." I am just wrapping up a detailing on a 36 S/C Phaeton and it is a work of art. I did it 97.5 % by the book (and it would not have been possible without the help of Curt Schulze analyzing his parts with a magnifying glass and a quest to look at the handful of unrestored cars still out there). A few flaws include keeping the silver head bolts vs black Parkerizing, green vs black s/c - jury is still out there, leaving the battery grounded to the starter bolt, and a few other little this and that?s. And, that being said, when you have the blue/grey color coil, satin black on generator, starter, and oil filter, gloss black on generator regulator and fuse cover, all proper cadmium such as Startix, all proper Parkerizing on your W, 30, C, and N bolts, copper plated bolts on s/c pipes, all emblems and etc. it comes off looking like a billion bucks - and if you do it wrong you may like it but there are a few people killing themselves to do their car right and pushing that separation of the men from the boys in this area of authenticity and you do not want to be one of the ones left behind as too hard to fix later. The fellow who had the Boattail at Pebble Beach was overwhelmed with compliments and enthrallment this past year (he is on that 98 % cusp) and a few more are actively in the pipeline.

Ugh. Too much green paint.

Should have clarified on the filler cap - Again, they must not have used a primer so the oil, temperature, and time caused the green engine paint to peel off the cad plated oil filler cap.

That's a new one: The filler cap is not cad plated? It was painted engine color?

I believe John is spot on. The tubes were purchased from an outside vendor which painted the tubes black. When the engines were painted coming down the line at the factory the oil filler pipe and cap were installed as well as other ansillarys on the engine.

As to 851/852 cars - My opinion from the one original close up engine photo that Curt Schulze and I have is that the stand pipe and the filler cap are AUBURN ENGINE GREEN (a mossy glue grey green). The catch is that the underlying paint was black and they sprayed the green right over the top without any primer (thus the green peeled off over time and left the black behind).

As to the Grey engines - they appear done by the service/parts company so I would not put much weight on such either way.

I was looking at some older posts and pictures. Just wondering: Is the oil filler tube supposed to be engine color, or should it be black? More trivia...

Mark

I like the black contrast, but it's prolly wrong...