cooling issue

I am not home to look but I am pretty sure I used 55 FT. LBS. for the head. I torqued the head, then waited 24 hrs. with out starting the engine or adding coolant and torqued again. Then I added water and did the engine start up and ran for 30 min. let the engine cool completly and torqued again. Then I droved the car for a few miles and let cool and torqued again. I contined this until no tightening occured. I decided on this procedure after talking to several ACD Club members I respect.
CORDially Mike

The 34/35/35 cars are something like start in the very center and work outward to the left and right - and then moving back to next row of 3 and then forward to next row of three (ie you are working from the ceneter outwards). I would then retorque after a hundred miles or so.

Finally getting around to working on the problem. Randy I do not have a spring in the lower hose but it is only 2short lengths with a steel tube in the middle to bend around generator. What I found was a small leak at waterpump shaft tightening the packing nut solved this.Compression test again showed all cylinders to be very close. Cylinder leakage test did not show a clear sign of leakage into radiator but did show leakage between 7&8 and 3&4 cylinders. Pulled head and had it milled for slight warpness. Also pulled waterjacket cover and found about an inch of scale and residue from a stop leak product that was used when I first bought the car cleaned all this out and had radiator boiled clean again and repaired a slight crack in filler neck we discovered. Now the fun part of re-assembly begins. One new question I have a tourque sequence for the head does anybody know the suggested tourque lbs for the head bolts? Thank you for all the help and ideas hopefully the problem is solved.

I am leaning toward head gasket or water pump issue for the 1930.

I use Gates Green Stripe on all the cars.

41 Cadillacs have shutter thermostats, though the shutter siphon is also a flow restrictor.

35 Auburn has a 160 in the head, but I have a small hole drilled in flange that allows some bypass when cold - I believe Don Wohlend recommended such for my first 851.

I put new hoses on Bud's 851 coupe about 5 years ago. I replaced the 20+ year old Napa hose with another Napa hose and we have since put at least 2500 miles on the new hoses. They are heavy reinforced with webbing and we haven't had any trouble nor do I expect we ever will.
Thin walled hose could be a problem.

I know 40' Buicks for sure have the wire in the lower hose but they also have that thin molded hose with the wire in them. Those hoses are so flimsy they need the wire. I can't remember what the cooling system is on a 41' caddy. I'll have to dig up my 41' caddy engine and see but I thought they used shutters controlling air instead of a thermostat controlling flow.

Chuck, have you had a chance to try anything?

I have a wire in lower hose of my 851.

Also, we did not find the problem on 41 Cadillac until I ran car under load at highway speed on a dyno.

My experiance with Auburns you need the wire. R

In my experience the wire helps cars with a pressurized system and a thermostat. It's never been a problem not having the wire on any of the open systems I've worked on. When a thermostat is shut and the waterpump tries to pull water is when the hose collapses. Open systems don't have the waterpump starvation as long as all the passages are working properly.

I like Randy's comment about the wires in the hoses and it is something everyone needs to keep in mind with any car. I had an issue with my 41 Cadillac and lack of wire in its lower radiator hose.

Here is a simple way that is fairly accurate to check the head gasket.
1. Take a compression tester hose and screw it into the spark plug like you are testing the compression.
2. Run no.1 cylinder to TDC to check this cylinder.
3. Next adapt the quick disconnect end that the gage plugs into your compressed air. Sometimes it will plug right in depending on your compression tester.
4. The idea is to run about 50psi into the cylinder through the plug hole and bubbles will quickly form in the radiator if the head gasket is leaking around that cylinder. You can run more psi but try to stay under 80 or so.

You can do each cylinder but you must rotate each to top dead center so the valves are closed. Do all 8 and check the radiator each time.

Chuck do you have a spring or tube in the hose from the radiator to the waterpump those pumps can suck that hose closed. Randy

My first thoughts are in this order.

Water Pump main shaft seal sucking-in air.
Worn Water Pump Shaft Packing
Water Pump intake to Lower Radiator Hose sucking-in air.
Head Gasket leaking
Corroded/Rusty Cylinder Head's machined block mating surface.
Cracked Head casting water passage.
Cracked Engine Block water pasage

At NAPA , and other parts stores, you can buy a simple chemical test kit that will detect by-products of combustion in your radiator's cooling fluid. It is used to detect head gasket leakage, cracked/ corroded/rusted cylinder head castings etc.
This will help eleminate may possible problem areas.

Good Luck !

I have a 1930 Auburn8-95 that I'm having a slight issue with. The coolant in the radiator shows signs of foam or bubbles after running. The temperature never rises to the point of running hot but during acceleration coolant burps out the top of radiator from cap let off the accelerator and it stops. While parked the coolant level stabilizes and shows no signs of leakage. The engine has never been rebuilt or apart, radiator has been boiled clean,water pump rebuilt. Problem is the same running water or anti-freeze. I was leaning towards a head gasket but ran a compresssion test and all cylinders are within 10% of each other and no water is present in oil. Any suggestions on this problem?
Thanks Chuck