Head Removal

Neal Ziff
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25 Sep 2010 00:55 #18084 by Neal Ziff

Replied by Neal Ziff on topic Head Removal

Head was removed - no cracks. Machined off about 16 thou and reinstalled using NOS gasket and the copper spray you all recommended. The car ran much better, but still too hot. I pinned the thermostat wide open and it runs nice. I put on about 40 miles over a couple of days and it never got hotter than 180. I'm going to bring it to the West Coast Meet and drive it in the tour. Thanks for all the help everyone.

Neal
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oldbanger71
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22 Aug 2010 20:08 #17753 by oldbanger71

Replied by oldbanger71 on topic Head Removal

@ Andreas, don't worry, i've got enough humor and as it says on the bottom line of my messages : the more i know, the more i realize that i don't know enough !
I have no knowledge about Auburns specificley, but just general knowledge and expirience with Cords, so i would not dare to give in a guessed torque-figur.
I just give my thoughts in and when somebodey knows better i aprisiate if he or she is correcting me for my education and avoiding ill leaded thoughts, so go on

The more i know, the more i realize that i don't know enough.
812 310 121 S

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61xlch
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22 Aug 2010 19:00 #17752 by 61xlch

Replied by 61xlch on topic Head Removal

Philipp: Dont let me be misunderstood, I like your experienced input very much, just wanted avoid misleading the others.
Best wishes
Andreas

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oldbanger71
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19 Aug 2010 15:35 #17703 by oldbanger71

Replied by oldbanger71 on topic Head Removal

I don't lean out the window anymore and leave it up to those that are knowledgeable <img src="{SMILIES_PATH}/icon_wink.gif" alt=" :wink:

" title="Wink" />

The more i know, the more i realize that i don't know enough.
812 310 121 S

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Neal Ziff
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19 Aug 2010 15:30 #17702 by Neal Ziff

Replied by Neal Ziff on topic Head Removal

Are there specific torque values when I reinstall the head?

Neal

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oldbanger71
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19 Aug 2010 14:38 #17700 by oldbanger71

Replied by oldbanger71 on topic Head Removal

@ Andreas : this was more general speaking, but your right.
@ Mike : Sorry, your right i have mixt the words, english is not my mothertongue, should have better gone to bed insted of reading in ACD forum......... <img src="{SMILIES_PATH}/icon_wink.gif" alt=" :wink:

" title="Wink" />

The more i know, the more i realize that i don't know enough.
812 310 121 S

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mikespeed35
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18 Aug 2010 22:35 #17689 by mikespeed35

Replied by mikespeed35 on topic Head Removal

I agree to not use stainless steel studs or nuts but they are not brittle. Stainless steel is too soft and the heads will constantly have to be retorqed. Stainless steel is about the same strength as a grade 2 bolt.
CORDially Mike

Mike Huffman

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61xlch
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18 Aug 2010 20:13 #17687 by 61xlch

Replied by 61xlch on topic Head Removal

oldbanger71, Philipp wrote: When you have reground the surfaces, make sure that the pistons don't hit the valves, even if the head is torqued down again after some miles.
The gasket should be increased at least the thickness which was ground away on both surfaces plus the original gasket thickness.

Philipp: I guess you are talking about OHV-engines? Hard to imagine how the valve hits the piston in flathead engines.

On the old flatheads this is not that critical, a bit more compression ratio should be compensated by todays higher octane fuel, isn?t it?
Best
Andreas

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oldbanger71
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18 Aug 2010 09:26 #17684 by oldbanger71

Replied by oldbanger71 on topic Head Removal

Dear Neal,
Do not use stainless steel studs, since the headstuds are usually special steel.
Stainless steel studs tend to result in overtorqueing and often in braking with time, since they are more brittle.
Use correct new headstuds with coppergrease and youll be fine.
When you have reground the surfaces, make sure that the pistons don't hit the valves, even if the head is torqued down again after some miles.
The gasket should be increased at least the thickness which was ground away on both surfaces plus the original gasket thickness.

The more i know, the more i realize that i don't know enough.
812 310 121 S

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Neal Ziff
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18 Aug 2010 03:34 #17683 by Neal Ziff

Replied by Neal Ziff on topic Head Removal

Hi Mike,
I was going to have the head checked for cracks and then have it blanchard ground to make sure it's flat. Thanks for the suggestion about replacing the studs - I'll take a good look at them as I clean things up. Any other suggestions while I've got it opened up? I appreciate all the tips I can get.
Neal

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mikespeed35
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18 Aug 2010 03:22 #17682 by mikespeed35

Replied by mikespeed35 on topic Head Removal

Make sure it is flat Neal, before you reinstall it. All that wedging and compression you know. Have you thought about replacing the studs with new nonrusty ones?
CORDially Mike

Mike Huffman

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Neal Ziff
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17 Aug 2010 23:47 #17681 by Neal Ziff

Replied by Neal Ziff on topic Head Removal

Success! A couple of weeks of spraying the studs with PB Blaster and then using the suggestion of adding some oil to the tops of the pistons and turning it over did the trick. I then used some high density plastic wedges to lift it up and incrementally used larger wood spacers until it was off. Time to clean it up, etc. Maybe I'll have it back together and running in time for the West Coast Meet.

Thanks for all the help,
Neal

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Terry
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07 Aug 2010 19:50 #17508 by Terry

Replied by Terry on topic head removal

Try putting in a couple table spoons of oil to seal the rings and that will boost the compression enough to loosen the head and gaskets.
I don't like the idea of lifting the head with a chain welded to the spark plugs as they are aliminum and can strip the threads quite easily.

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W. E. Snelson
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06 Aug 2010 06:41 #17482 by W. E. Snelson

Replied by W. E. Snelson on topic Cylinder head removal

I had this problem with my 852. Eventually had heavy hooks welded into the bases of 2 old spark plugs. With these in #3 and #5 plug holes, and the weight taken on a chain block, tapping with a rubber mallet did the trick. Good luck! Bill.

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Tom_Parkinson
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06 Aug 2010 02:56 #17477 by Tom_Parkinson

Replied by Tom_Parkinson on topic Head Removal

Hi,

Next thing that comes to my mind is to make or rig a puller. I am unfamiliar with the layout of the Auburn head though. Anyone have additional thoughts?

--Tom

With brakes, two cylinders are better than one.

Editor-in-Chief Emeritus, The Hardtop News Magazine, the Journal of the Michiana Dunes Region, Lambda Car Club International

See pix of 1509A here: mbcurl.me/YCSE

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Neal Ziff
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06 Aug 2010 00:06 #17473 by Neal Ziff

Replied by Neal Ziff on topic Head Removal

Terry - I was so excited to try that idea I went right down to the barn to give it a go. Unfortunately I didn't get any head movement, however I did notice what I thought was a "puff" of air along the gasket seam. I guess I don't have enough compression to give it the umph it needs.

Tom - I tried the dead-blow hammer, but don't notice any movement.

Is a wide blade chisel along the gasket seam a bad idea?

Neal
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05 Aug 2010 23:42 #17472 by Tom_Parkinson

Replied by Tom_Parkinson on topic Head Removal

Hi,

Ooooooooooooooo! I like that !!! Great idea.

--Tom

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Terry
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05 Aug 2010 21:04 #17471 by Terry

Replied by Terry on topic head removal

Put back in 6 head bolts and leave them about 1/8 " loose. Put two at the front corners , two at the rear corners and 2 or 3 in the middle.
Reinsert the spark plugs only, (no wires)
Crank engine over a few revolutions and the head should come free on its own. Remove bolts and take head off and clean as needed.
This works for me. No hammering or tapping of any kind and no damage. Good luck

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05 Aug 2010 18:17 #17470 by Tom_Parkinson

Replied by Tom_Parkinson on topic Head Removal

Hi Neal,

As is stated in the Hippcratic Oath, "First do no harm." Be gentle in all you do.

If you find it necessary to "bump" the head to break it loose, and that's likely, use a plastic dead-fall hammer to do the bumping. Harbor Freight has these cheap. If you're as old as I am, you might use an old fashioned cast lead hammer. I strongly suggest that you do not bump with a steel or iron hammer--these will be more likely to create a crack in the casting that is the head.

Use a heavy "bumper" rather than a "light" one, ie, 4# rather than 1#. "Heavy" moves things, "light" bends (breaks) things.

Keep us advised of your progress!!

--Tom
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Neal Ziff
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05 Aug 2010 16:38 #17469 by Neal Ziff

Head Removal was created by Neal Ziff

Here I go again - looking for advice on what most of you probably think is quite basic (but I've never attempted). I've got everything off of the top of the head of my 8-95 and am ready to remove the it so I can replace the gasket, check for cracks etc. All bolts, distributor, etc. removed.

Before I try anything stupid, what suggestions do you have to dislodge the head?

Thanks,
Neal

Neal
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