Water leak, help

Finally got the leak stopped with Ultra Black RTV gasket maker, the 4th times the charm I guess. Thanks for all the advice

@curt, the boy your talking about is belgian figur called " Maneken piss :

www.flickr.com/photos/josuereynoso/350597562/

if i got you right.

@ Mike : Have you ever tryed " Curil T " sealer ?
Here is the link:

www.scparts.co.uk/index/lang-2/l ... pl,x-a.htm

i use it without any paper or other gasket.

It works perfectly on my diff's and gearboxes. <!-- s:wink: --><img src="{SMILIES_PATH}/icon_wink.gif" alt="" title="Wink" /><!-- s:wink: -->

Curt, I just checked my last seal and it is still leaking, but not through the threads. About a 1/8" area in the joint its self. That is my last attempt, it will just have to leak.
CORDially Mike

auburn653 wrote: I always thought these old cars were like Harley's... they always leak!

Yes Troy, like the Dutch boy with his finger in the dyke.

I always thought these old cars were like Harley's... they always leak!

mikespeed35 wrote: Hi Steve, I have been having a leaking diff. cover that I am on my fourth try at sealing it. The next thing I would try is no gasket and silicone sealer. Be sure the plate and cast iron are perfectly clean. I use a scalpel and a small pick to be sure every pit is clean and then wipe it down with laquire thinner till the rag dosen't get dirty when you wipe. Then apply the silicone as the instructions state. Let it cure fully before putting coolant back in. Of course use sealer of some type on the screws also. I give no gaurantee on this fix either, just something else to try. Remember I'm on my fourth diff. try.
CORDially Mike

I know what you mean Mike, I am on the fourth pass on the DR I am currently restoring. It is my belief that the lube makes it's way back through the threads on the bottom bolts that secure the cover. The threads in the housing are very short and will strip easly with any kind of torque. If is is not the threads, you might try a mill file across the diff and get the cover sanded flat at a machine shop. Some diffs leak, some don't.

Hi Steve, I have been having a leaking diff. cover that I am on my fourth try at sealing it. The next thing I would try is no gasket and silicone sealer. Be sure the plate and cast iron are perfectly clean. I use a scalpel and a small pick to be sure every pit is clean and then wipe it down with laquire thinner till the rag dosen't get dirty when you wipe. Then apply the silicone as the instructions state. Let it cure fully before putting coolant back in. Of course use sealer of some type on the screws also. I give no gaurantee on this fix either, just something else to try. Remember I'm on my fourth diff. try.
CORDially Mike

Sorry to keep beating a dead horse, but I have the leak down to a small trickle along the edge, along the bottom, just below the third bolt from the front. I was wondering if a blocksealer/head gasket repair like K&amp;W would finally seal that, or would that be a bad idea in an old engine such as this?
Thanks

If you think the plate is too thin make a 3/16" thick x 1/2 flat bar and drill accordinly to the existing bolt holes on the side cover, do that on both sides and ends. and that should give you enough metal to tighten down securely. Just another suggestion from the peanut gallery.

No the engine is in the car, but I don't think I have a crack as it wasn't leaking before I took the cover off (to put in a baffle), of course I know that doesn't rule that out so I'll have another look. The only thing I did change was the cover, the old one I had wouldn't work with baffle in place as it was flush against the block (homemade, long story) so I got a new/repro one which stands out about 3/8 from the block to allow the water to flow over the baffle.
Thanks

Steve: You may have a crack in the water jacket. Sometimes when cracks occur, they show up near the edge of the flange. Look real close at the engine casting just below the metal plate.
If it's cracked, you would have to take the plate off and clean out the interior surfaces. Best way (and messy) is to abrasive-blast it. Then coat the interior surface with epoxy. I hope the engine is out of the car...

Mark

I took off the plate and put a layer of silicone gasket sealer on the block side of the gasket, used teflon tape on the screws. Put the plate back on this AM, no leaks around the screws but still leaking around the plate edge. I wonder if the new/repro plate may be too thin and warping as I tighten the screws? It is 18 gauge, wonder if it should be thicker and that way less likely to bow when tightened, because I swear that's what it looks like it's doing.
Thanks

Hello Steve,

there are also some kind of steel-rubber-washers available, it will replace the old copper-asbestos-washer and work possibly better.

I use mostly Kent Siligasket on both sides of gaskets, this works always very good, even for the screw threads.

Good luck

Andreas

Steve Miller wrote:

auburn653 wrote: did you use a little silicone or thread sealer on the screw threads?

No, and I probably should have. They're all new SS screws too, and that's where most of the trickling is coming from, around the screws. I think I'll take each one out and try that.
Thanks

The 1934-1936 Auburns that had the side plate cover; each bollt was sealed with a copper asbestos washer. Part # 11S1. I'll bet the early engines used the same.

Hello Steve:
Those screw holes go all the way through into the water jacket. They will leak forever if the treads aren't sealed. You need to drain the block, remove all the screws and blow out the screw holes until they are bone dry. Then when replacing the screws, give the threads of each screw a generous coating of gasket sealer with a small brush. I used that red permatex in the aerosol can. I sprayed the sealer into the plastic cap and dipped a small paint brush in the liquid to coat the screw threads. I would also put sealer on the side of the gasket that mates to the block. I have never had good luck with dry gaskets on anything.

You will probably still have some slight seepage from some of the screws as you start driving the car. Slight additional tightening may be necessary. If you add a bottle of Bars Leak to the antifreeze when you refill the system, it will eventually take care of any slight seepage.

Best regards,
Steve Stevens

Steve: I also had plenty of trouble with my side plate, the difference being that mine is a 1935 Lycoming. I finally had a plate made of thicker metal than the one that comes from the factory. The thin plate tends to warp a little when it is screwed in place.
Then I ommited the gasket and just used Permatex Ultra Black on the gasket surfaces and tightened everything in place. I also used that Permatex Indian Head stuff on the bolt threads, but I think that was overkill. A hydaulic machinest that I know always uses the Ultra Black on his high pressure plates, and it works great.

Mark

Let me make my disclaimer that I am not an Auburn expert...
But, typically the threaded fasteners are not part of the seal. The gasket should provide a seal between the source and the threaded hole.
I noted you used "Indian Head shellac". I think #2 Permatex would be a better choice for a gasket sealer.
Often permatex applied between the sheet metal piece attached to the block is sufficent and the gasket only to the machined block surface will seal. If you are having trouble with this apply permatex to both surfaces.
I would probably try a new gasket and clean the cover well and use permatex.
Bob

auburn653 wrote: did you use a little silicone or thread sealer on the screw threads?

No, and I probably should have. They're all new SS screws too, and that's where most of the trickling is coming from, around the screws. I think I'll take each one out and try that.
Thanks

did you use a little silicone or thread sealer on the screw threads?

It's probably no more than 1/16" thick gasket, and the cover is new but I guess it could have a bit of a warp to it. I'll let it set as is and re-check tomorrow
Thanks

What thickness gasket material are you using? Sometimes the metal is a little corroded and the thickness of the steel is a little thinner and putting on a gasket that is too thick can cause the metal plate to warp in different spots and as you keep on tightenening the gasket it will cause a ripple effect on the cover. Hope this gives a little insight as to what is going on. Try using a thinner gasket (1/16 in thickness ) and use a good avation gasket goo , put it on the cover first and let it bond overnight with some pressure on it on all surfaces, Then the next day install the side cover and everything should be all right. Wait about an hour before adding fluid and recheck tightness before before the fluid.

I finally got the side water inlet plate on my '31 8-98 today. It is a new plate with a new cork/rubber gasket. I put Indian Head shellac on the plate side to hold it on, let it set for about an hour, no cement on the block side. Put all the screws in and snugged them down, not too tight. Came back a little later and gave each one another 1/4 turn. filled the radiator with plain water, starts leaking back toward the firewall, tightened those a little more and a few more leaks sprout up in the middle, tightened those and starts trickling somewhere else. Should I just let it set overnight, then tighten a little more tomorrow? Or replace the gasket?
Thanks