1931-32 AUBURN BRAKE CONVERSION

I agree with Ken, if the mechanical brakes are set up according to the instructions in the workshop manual, they work great. I too have had the occasion to lock up the brakes after some one pulled out in front of the Rum-Runner and had blue smoke coming off all four. I've been running the Rum-Runner on tours for 10 yrs and simply go over the routine every year of making sure all linkages are oiled and adjustment are done if needed. Mechanical brakes seem to be like everything else on old cars, they need to be maintained properly and used often. For what it's worth, I'd spend my energy and money on tuning the mechanical brakes and using them, they do a fine job. Regards, The Rum-Runner

ken:
surely its not too complicated to add springs to the system. it is a bit of trouble to find a size that will work. those old springs are tired, and can't be found in the correct size. (or i didn't look hard enough)
as to the condition of the system,we agree. it should be serviced as it always was.
as to pulling to one side... yes they will... to the left.

the laser pyrometer is so easy to use. and it is dead accurate as to sesnsing what we are doing, transfering energy into heat...(i'm the last hi=tech guy in the world!)
field expedency is a standard item in my toolbox. last year part of a road sign ended up being used in my salon! it did the job i asked it too.
by the way, your L=29 is one of my favorites... love that tilted windshield.

Mason
You make the adjustment of these brakes very modern and very complicated. It is true you do need to take into consideration about the wear, but that is where I mentioned that the system needs to be in good working order. I have never had a problem with any of my cars pulling to one side or the other if these are adjusted properly. It is not complicated. But you should have some mechanical knowledge, to tackle any brake job. You should read the article in skinned knuckles
My 2 Cents
K Clark

There was an excellent series on adjusting and maintaining Steeldraulic brakes in Skinned Knuckles magazine last year.

i missed 1 thing. on many straight axle cars pulling to the left is a normal thing on braking. several ways were used to address this.
on packards and others a wider right front brake lining was used.

on salon auburns the front brakes used 2 sizes of wheel cylinders; the left 7\8 inch,right side 1 inch. ( the left side cylinder is dedicated to its correct place by a pin.)

you want to set the temperature, (your brake drum is a heat sink) a little hotter on the right side,to adress the pulling issue.

also look to see if you have part # e6-1088 (brake and clutch pedal stop) on your car. it sets a permanent stop location for both pedals,& keeps them from creating noise on the floorboard. (if you happen to remove this rod, admire it, it is forged and one of the most beautifully made pieces you will find on an auburn).

if you keep the steeldraulic brakes, which i am in agreement with the former comments, follow this advice to adjust them.
in adjusting the brakes the most critical part is to have the same clearence at the anchor pin at all times.clean and lubricate the cables so they return the cable easily.
next add 2 springs to the front brake and 1 to the rear brake shoes to gaurantee that they will always have the same clearance at the pin.
then the final adjustment is made using a laser pyrometer to set the brake drag. what you want to do is have the brake drums running the same temperature in pairs,front and rear.

Hello Steve:
I feel the same as Mr. Clark about the mechanical brakes.

I was out for a spin in my 1932 Auburn last Summer when a young girl on a cell phone ran a stop light and crossed right in front of me. I had the green light and was running about 25 or 30 MPH and smoked all four tires on that Auburn with those original mechanical brakes. The accident was avoided. What more can you ask from a brake system.
Kindest regards,
Steve Stevens

Steve
May I ask why would you want to change your braking system? The original brakes work excellent if restored fully. and they never loose there fluid. They did not go back to hydraulics until 1933.
My 2 cents
K Clark

HAS ANYONE OUT THERE CONVERTED THEIR STEELITE MECHANICAL BRAKES TO HYDRAULIC BRAKES. I WOULD LIKE TO KNOW WHAT PARTS ARE NEEDED FOR THE CONVERSION (FOR EXAMPLE WILL THE EXISTING BACKING PLATES DO THE JOB IF MODIFIED TO TAKE THE WHEEL CYLINDERS). I EXPECT THAT I WILL NEED A SET OF BACKING PLATES, BRAKE SHOES, SPRINGS AND WHEEL CYLINDERS, AND A MASTER CYLINDER OFF A 1932 OR 1933 MODEL. ANY PARTS OR INFO WOULD BE A GREAT HELP.

THANKS STEVE