850Y Ammeter Repair

mikespeed35 wrote: I vented the top of my fuel gage to the outside of the cluster, thus keeping the fumes from the other gages.
CORDially Mike

I've done the repairs and treated the rusted areas. Everything seems to move freely.

However, Looking at reassembly, I don't see how you can vent the sight gauge to the outside of the cluster. I suppose if the greenish, translucent plastic lenses over the slots on the side of the backing plate were missing you could run a small tube from the top of the sight glass through the slot to the outside. But my instrument light lenses are intact and I just finished carefully cleaning them. Hopefully, Curt is right and the newer indicator fluid is non-corrosive and I won't have any further trouble.

Curt
I did not know there was fluid that stayed red, I will get some from you I need it for this 34 652Y and My 8-100A and also my 1930 Packard 745.
Thanks
K Clark

Not true Mike, I have fluid that stays red. I know there is some stuff that is sold that comes in a black wrapper that says do not expose to light. I don't know what they are thinking..............

I didn't know that Curt. The "new fluid" stayed red for about two months and then turned clear. I guess if you don't get rust you don't get red!
CORDially Mike

OK, It's out.

Sheesh... the steel bracket and pivot is all corroded with rust. Not sure how much metal is underneath. I hope it can be saved...

The needle pivot and bracket on the oil pressure gauge is almost as bad although it was working fine.

This is clearly caused by the fuel gauge indicator fluid and has probably been festering in there for some time. If I can get the corrosion under control I will take your advice about venting the sight gauge away form the other gauges.

Mike, The modern manometer fluid is not corrosive like the old stuff is.

Richard, just one easy to access 3/8 nut vs 3 small screws.

What causes these amp gages to go bad is the fuel gage. The liquid is corrosive and rusts the amp. gage. I vented the top of my fuel gage to the outside of the cluster, thus keeping the fumes from the other gages.
CORDially Mike

Thanks Curt, I was afraid I had to pull the whole unit. Doesn't sound too difficult though.

I don't see why I have to disconnect the capillary tube on the fuel gauge though. I should be able to remove it from the rear and tie it out of the way.

Hi Richard:
You need to pull the gage cluster out of the dash.
Disconnect the battery.
Take the temp gage out. (3 small screws, same as gas gage)
Remove gas gage capillary line.
Disconnect the amp gage wires.
Disconnect the oil line,
Remove the two 1/4 nuts that retain the cluster to the dash.
Remove the gage cluster.
From here on, it is pretty intuitive.

All amp gages 1934-1936 six and eight are the same. The sixes have a tan face and the eights have black.

I have an ammeter on a '34 with a stuck needle. It is probably mechanical since recently I noticed the needle hanging up for a second until I gave the gauge a tap and it freed up. Now it is just stuck in one position.

Looks like I need to get the backing plate off since it pulls through from the front of the backing plate on the four-gauge cluster, but I have never removed the entire backing plate, only the fuel gauge up to now. Does anyone know the minimum disassembly necessary to remove the ammeter? I'd rather not do this one trial-and-error? the less time I spend under that dash bumping my head on the pedals, the better.

Also: Is the ammeter serviceable? at least to lube the needle pivot? I notice in the Auburn Parts book this part (#N10693) is unique to the 850Y.

Curt, you out there?