36 Auburn

OK, flames it is. But only on the front fenders

lets try the picture again

http://good-times.webshots.com/photo/2089853660099912989MJpnTh
Wow, under the denim covers, we actually have some pretty good back seats!

My grandmother has a flame job on her Desoto. I thought everyone did that.

Our old buddy Joel has (had?) the Wild Woodpecker logo on the flanks of his 12 cabriolet a few years ago. Kinda hope it's still there.

My grandmother has a flame job on her Desoto. I thought everyone did that.

All of the auto lite tags are black. The starter was rebuilt, the base is blue but the body is black, most likely repainted when rebuilt. Looks like we can say that it is a 35, startix removed. starter rebuilt. Carb most likely replaced at some point, but the horn, generator, distributor and motor appear unmolested. Suspect the head is good. I believe I will give it the name "clementine" since it was from an old mine. Yellow car, brown trim added. Thus ends phase 1, I now wait for Curt to send me the brake lines. The drums are excellent, so I'm not going to put on the 8 cylinder drums. One of you has the rear bumper, Curt has the artillery wheels. Also looks like they put a starter button in the cig lighter spot and repainted the dash with the same brown paint they put on the fenders.

The next nice stretch of weather, I will gut the interior and power wash everything. I'm going to leave it all pretty much as is. No 350 Chevy, spinny rims or mustang 2 front end. No chop top, shaved handles and velor seats. No DVD and a huge base speaker for the trunk. No flames, electric windows or a 411 rear end. no candy finish on a fluorescent paint job. no decking, Frenching or 34 Ford grill.
I hope I'm not disappointing anyone.

In 1934 Auburn started using Carter 288s on the six cylinders. After car number 1488 they went to Carter 307S. At car number 3036 the Stromberg EX22 was used. On 2-19-35 starting with WF5747 The word LYCOMING was added along with an updated casting symbol CW-1000BA.
These and many other running changes were made through the end of production. None were all done at once.

Hi Curt,

I was going on the "LYCOMING" on the side of the block. My 35 does not have that, and has the water jacket cover (WF-3923).
I don't have the info here right in front of me, but someplace I have the WF number that marks the change from Carter to Stromberg carb, valve timing changed, and I also assumed that was when the block was changed to the freeze plugs.

Does anyone know if this is the case? Or, when the engines changed from water jacket cover to freeze plugs?

Auburn653, I believe the engine has a water side plate which would make it an earlier engine 1934 - 1935

Auburn653, I believe the engine has a water side plate which would make it an earlier engine 1934 - 1935

We have some numbers!
frame 2027
engine WF5066
starter MAJ1033
generator CAR4603-3

Well, it will be interesting to see what it is.

nothing under the back seat except a 1963 classics illustrated comic book
"the red badge of courage" and a lot of dust! still too cold for the power washer and I'll want it to be over 60 and some brakes before I try the start-up. Hoping to find a stack of silver certificates, but it was the depression after all. Neat how the seat folds up to expose a trunk. All the old upholstery is still there, but it is pretty tattered, but it might make some good swatches to duplicate the material.

I forgot we were talking about a 6 cyl. The comments I made about the water side cover and freeze plugs where for 8 cyl. I don't know if they apply to 6 cyl.
CORDially Mike

My understanding is that early 35 Auburns had the rectangular water side cover and late cars had the freeze plugs. I would recommend using Cunifer brake lines, also called EZI-BEND. The orig. brake lines are copper. This material is a alloy and complies with DOT standards and is a lighter copper color. But the best property is it bends and double flares easily. It is more expensive than steel lines but the easy bending makes it worth it. I used it on my 35 Auburn. Go to www.brakeplace.com or call 1-800-233-4053 for more info.
CORDially Mike

The plan is to start with a complete cleaning. Everything has a layer of dirt, but is pristine underneath. Unfortunately I have to catch a warm day to operate a hose in Colorado! Before I take anything apart, there is interest in tags, numbers, colors etc. and apparently there may be items of historical interest. I'll start a new thread with close up photos of particular items. I'll even get as anal as nuts, bolts and whatever minutia that may be of interest. Look forward to it!

The bolt/rod on the left is the front right (pass side) fender support.

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there is a thick layer of dirt on everything. The good news is its a dry dessert sand and it's all rust free underneath. I'll need to wash down the car if we get a warm day, as the dirt is everywhere. Is the frame number on the top, bottom or side of the frame rail?

This is '36 engine. It has the 4 freeze plugs on starter/generator side.
Engine number is located on top deck, right behind the heat shield on drivers side. Should be WF.... May also be stamped on the engine plate.

Frame number is on passenger side, right in front of the fender support rod. Don't clean too hard, numbers are VERY light.

How about headlight pictures. From earlier pic, it looked like early 35 style that fit down in fender. Late 35-36 mount on stands.

left side of motor

right side of motor

the old cracking lacquer paint
dumped a quart of oil down the plug holes. It was started 10 years ago, looks like new autolite plugs, wires, points cap and rotor. The wal mart breather cap and the clean starter from a rebuild. I'm optimistic that it just might go. Believe I'll lube the distributor, all the old oil was drained. Let me know if that's the 35 motor!

nklimek wrote: I was kidding about rodding it-

I knew you were just messin' with us! <!-- s:wink: --><img src="{SMILIES_PATH}/icon_wink.gif" alt="" title="Wink" /><!-- s:wink: -->

Thanks again for the help! I understand there is a frame# and you add 1000 to get the vin# This could very well be a 35, I will get the motor shot today and try to find the frame#. I have not attempted start up as I want to give a solid pre-lube this week and yank the gas tank. Old gas is a huge problem, it will leave a varnish that will haunt everything. I need a master cylinder kit and brake lines- any recommendations?

The headlights are early '35.
Do you have a photo of the passenger side of engine? Does it have a rectangular water jacket plate? If so, then it's a '35.

I don't think clear coat would be looked on favorably in Preservation Class. I hope you do some maintenance before start up. Fuel tank, lines, carb. Cooling system. Drop and clean oil pan and oil pump pickup. Check "feel" of rod bearings. Be sure and check for critters or their nests etc. inside engine. They can and do get inside cyl. intake and exaust manifolds, etc. Oil cyl. up well and prelube before start up. Just what I would do.
CORDially Mike

I was kidding about rodding it- there are plenty of replica kits, if it was rusted out it would be a cool rod. Preservation is the goal, I do enjoy joking about making a rock crawler out of it!

I had a Gremlin X with denim seats!

I would fix what needs fixed and leave the rest alone. You can always restore it down the road. There are already too many street rods of every make. If you make it into a rod nobody will even care that it was an Auburn.

OOps- sorry for the big photo. you can see alot of old fabric still there, they just made denim covers that come right off. Fortunately they didn't rip out the old material. I had to pop on some wrangler radials, I have some ideas-
perhaps a rock crawler? with a baby hemi and those spinny rims. Better yet, a small block Chevy. Has anyone chopped the top of one? I just can't find any of these rodded on the Internet. thousands of big three hot rods, yet no auburns?

Thank you for your input! Keeping the car as an unrestored original is attractive on several levels. First, I tied up all my money in a frame off on a 54 Skylark, so not spending money suits me. Second, I always believed that somewhat complete and original cars should be left that way, so it suits me philosophically.

Now I believe I can tap out a few dents and polish, making the car look better without major paint and body. issue one, do I clear coat it to encapsulate the old paint? I have seen that done. Most dents look like they will somewhat tap out, I assume no fillers, leaving some visible dents.

But the bigger issue is the interior. The original fabric still hangs in shreds, although at some point someone had made some denim covers. no foam, it's like sitting on a cotton bail but still comfortable. Should I have the interior redone or leave it hanging, perhaps recover the areas missing fabric with something similar? Most "soft" components just have to be replaced. Perhaps a cloth cover protecting what is left? Unrestored original is a tricky area, as you have to define maintenance vs restoration and there is alot of grey area.

On the final note, I will attempt the start up soon. Apparently it started 10 years ago and they had rebuilt the starter. I would love to not rebuild the engine, but realistically that might not happen. if I do bearings and valves, can I still call it unrestored? The shifter is tight and the Columbia is smooth, I suspect no tyranny or rear end problems.

Addendum, to answer your hubcap ? The correct hubcap would look like a baby moon and have AUBURN written across it. The flat glass should be available from a local window glass replacement company the has safety glass, they can cut it to your pattern on site. The speedo needle may be a slight problem, if you have a local speedo shop, I would check with them. Is the engine free, or better yet does it run?

Bob

Welcome to the Club and congratulations on a great find. For what it's worth, these cars are only original once, if you so choose not to restore this I hope to sometime see it parked in the unrestored class at Auburn. I do know that the correct wheels would be the artillery wheels, but have no idea where to locate. Also, it looks like you have a 2 speed rear, this will make a great touring car. I have a 1936 6 cyl. which I completely restored about 15 yrs. ago [ it was not as complete as your car] , and would be happy to "try" and answer any questions. Good Luck.

Bob

The paint has been touched up, but it has the lacquer stretch marks all over. I suspect the lacquer could be buffed out. If the motor is good, I'm leaning towards keeping it as an original survivor. Here is the need list-

Brake lines, cylinder rebuild kits
hood ornament
correct wheels (these were old tube wheels, was there a hubcap?)
couple of outer door handles
glass for headlights and taillights and instruments
rear tire mount
Air maze inlet filter
windows

Over the years, vandals broke out all the glass and pulled off the speedo needle. I suspect these are not too difficult of items to find. A nice fellow in Wisconsin has a barn full of parts, I suspect sedan parts are easy to find. The up side to an unresored original is it doesn't cost much and I may be able to prepare it for Oklahoma in April.

Looks like most of the parts are still in place, even the nuts for the floorboards. I think the rims should be the "artillery" style, though.

Is that the original paint?? Good prospect for "survivor" class.

Mark

Welcome to the Club. Our club Pres., Tim Gilmartin, is from CO. There is going to be a Meet in OK. April 16-19. Would like to meet you. Hope you can make it.
CORDially Mike

I'm taking a stab at posting photos

Got the car, the bolts do turn free

Other than the red dirt, this is a true time capsule. The 18K miles are probably correct, this car was driven a few years and in dry storage ever since. Don't need WD40, no rusted fasteners. Even the brake drums are good, barely worn. Yes, the soft components and upholstery are not usable, but still good for patterns. The wood floors are still strong. I can't believe there is a rust free original car from the 30's, but this is it!

The directions for posting pix can be found under "picture gallery"

Mark

I just joined the ADC club. I'm heading to New Mexico to pick up a 36 Auburn 4 door sedan. It was bought in Santa Fe by a mine owner, then stored indoors since WW2. The body has no rust, never been on a salt road and the New Mexico air didn't even eat the wood floors. Of course, the interior is toast, I'm sure the seats will be full of mouse turds!

I do want to track down the history of the car. The body tag is gone, but it looks like I may be able to get a number off the frame. Looks like it needs a rear bumper, hubcaps and a hood ornament, but otherwise it appears to be mostly complete. once I get it back, I may try to keep it as an unrested original if I can get the 6 running. Granted, you always find surprises lurking in the bowls once you get it home. I'll take it to Denver for a going over, then take it from there. How do you post pictures on this forum?