1930 Auburn Starter

I had that problem with a 48 Chevy with a rebuilt engine. My son had a 49 that had a rebuilt engine from the same builder. His car started hot or cold any time. I swapped starters and cleaned all conections. The 48 then started every time. Needless to say he wanted his starter motor back. The original starter for the 48 bench tested like a million bucks. I ended up getting a different starter with NOS field coils and armature etc. Then sold the car and bought an Auburn.
For what it is worth.................

Mike:
What you say is correct, but that doesn't solve this guy's problem. His engine is already built and in the car. He has a tight engine and he is going to need to break it in.
Regards,
Steve

The rule I use is .001 piston skirt to bore clearance for each 1 inch of bore dia. The motor should crank the same cold or hot unless you have too tight of clearance or high elect. resistance due to heat. If a motor has to WEAR IN the clearances are to tight. You notice I said crank the same not start. Just one guys opinion.
CORDially Mike

Ken:
New engines will often do that until they get broken in and the rings get seated. When the engine gets to full temperature, the pistons and rings swell slightly and get tight in the cylinders.
Here are some things you can do:
1) Be sure that your battery is fresh and fully charged so that it is putting out full cranking power. Put it on a battery charger over night.
2) Drive the car as much as possible to break in the engine. About 500 total miles would be good for it and should complete the break in.
3) The starter is probably not the culprit, but if you think it needs to be gone through, there should be a local starter & alternator rebuild shop in your area that can do it for you reasonably.
The problem will probably go away after doing items 1) and 2) above.
Best regards,
Steve Stevens

I have a 1930 Auburn 8-125 Cabriolet. It has a freshly rebuilt engine that starts great when cold, but will barely turn over, and won't start, when warm. I believe the problem is either the starter motor itself or the switch that resides on top of the starter motor.

Does anyone have any experience with this condition? Can anyone recommend someone who is familiar with these starters to rebuild it? (I am in the Detroit area).

Thanks for the help.

Ken Gluckman