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Cord 812 Custom Beverly restoration story
- RubyDS
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- Terry Cockerell
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Leaving them off until the drive train is sorted out is a good idea.
Some rudimentarey front fenders could be made from tin and fitted during trials.
I think the last item to be fitted should be the hood. Access to the hood bolt holes means leaving the drain pans off as well as the glove boxes and probable removing the front seat. Planning the work will save a lot of hassles.
My understanding of fitting the hood is to lift it onto the body, align it and fit the bolts from under the dash board.
The attached picture shows the provision for accessing the bolts.
T cockerell
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You may have already rectified this?
You have done an amazing job restoring the wreck you started with.
I take my hat off to you.
T cockerell
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I completely agree with Cliff. After listening to others at the West Coast Meet this month about the use of the 153 degree or 160 degree thermostats its the better idea. I had planned to remove mine but that will not allow the coolant to the coolant to stay in the radiator long enough for proper heat transfer.uconn_1965 wrote: If those are 153 or 160 degree thermostats, those are the very best ones to use.
Gary Parsons
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Terry Cockerell wrote: When my Cord arrived in Australia in 2007 it did not have thermostats fitted. The car was not driveable and needed a lot of work.
I opted to stop the coolant flow through the inlet manifold and used modern thermostats that opened at 160 deg F
I needed to drill a bleed hole in them and actually drilled two in each as the thermostat throats were smaller than the original type. This worked quite well in the car in conjunction with a shroud.
Recently I found a better design of thermostat with a much bigger throat, these are called full flow design. These were not available in the size I wanted in the past. They have a built in bleed hole and due to the larger throat diameter should work a lot better. I will find out later in the year when the car is back on the road.
The new full flow thermostat is made by Tridon in Australia Part No TT268 - 160
The cost is $41.oo Aust each.
From John Mereness: This appears solid advice, though I would have at least one hole drilled in the thermostat as that will eliminate air pockets and equally cause a slightly less dramatic "heat up" of the engine. I think we are all on the same page here, though just a double check. If you have a 185 thermostat in your car when you start the car the thermostat technically should be closed and open at 185 to more or less pre-heat the engine (great in winter to keep your feet warm), If you car though is naturally inclined to run at 165 on a cool day it will heat it to 185. And, on a hot day it will cause it to heat to 185 minimum too - but if your car is prone to running at 190 then car will run at 190 and if prone to 195 then your car will run at 195 and so on. Personally, I prefer the car to heat to 165 and then do whatever it is prone to do on its own after that without my extra help. Keep in mind too that water that moves too quickly through a radiator may not cool properly - thus thermostats are often also flow restictors to allow water to remain in radiator for a certain amount of time (ie when people remove thermostats they often encounter worse overheating that what they originally hoped to resolve).
JMM
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I opted to stop the coolant flow through the inlet manifold and used modern thermostats that opened at 160 deg F
I needed to drill a bleed hole in them and actually drilled two in each as the thermostat throats were smaller than the original type. This worked quite well in the car in conjunction with a shroud.
Recently I found a better design of thermostat with a much bigger throat, these are called full flow design. These were not available in the size I wanted in the past. They have a built in bleed hole and due to the larger throat diameter should work a lot better. I will find out later in the year when the car is back on the road.
The new full flow thermostat is made by Tridon in Australia Part No TT268 - 160
The cost is $41.oo Aust each.
T cockerell
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The bitterness of poor quality remains long after the sweetness of low price is forgotten.
Be of Good Cheer
Curt
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JIM.OBRIEN wrote: Hi Ruby,
You are coming along nicely. One comment - the inner CV joint cover need to be rotated. The fill fitting on the left joint should be at the top, just forward of the center line. The cover on the right joint should be just rear of the top center.
The lines for the cross shift are copper lines, you just need the furrels.
All the fittings you are looking for are all readily available from any good supplier supplier, either locally or on line. If you need help let me know.
Jim
Hi Jim,thanks for this response,have you an adress for the fittings to make my gearbox controls lines.
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Terry Cockerell wrote: Hi Ruby you certainly have come a long way since starting the restoration. Your skills and determination are beyond belief ...................... well done.
I have a question for you, "What is the bolt and lock nut in the middle of the front chassis cross member for ?" "This is immediately in front of the gear box oil pump."
Thanks,
Terry Cockerell
Hello Terry,
The nut on the front chassis member is not on my car but on a cutomer 810 ,no reason to have this bolt.
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You are coming along nicely. One comment - the inner CV joint cover need to be rotated. The fill fitting on the left joint should be at the top, just forward of the center line. The cover on the right joint should be just rear of the top center.
The lines for the cross shift are copper lines, you just need the furrels.
All the fittings you are looking for are all readily available from any good supplier supplier, either locally or on line. If you need help let me know.
Jim
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I have a question for you, "What is the bolt and lock nut in the middle of the front chassis cross member for ?" "This is immediately in front of the gear box oil pump."
Thanks,
Terry Cockerell
T cockerell
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Gary I don't understand your question. If your failure resulted in the spring end and the brake backing plate being ground down then the anger bolt didn't fail, the car lost a wheel.
Regardless you should have the safety lops installed just in case.
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