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Silicone Brake Fluid , What are the Pros and Cons???????????
- Terry Cockerell
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Peter certainly knows his field which supplies a variety of products that are designed for use in antique and classic cars.
Peter has a military grade brake fluid designated 318 that is ideally suited to classic cars that are driven intermittently rather than as a daily driver. 318 will not damage the rubber components and prevents corrosion of the metal parts and will not damage a brake pressure switch. It is not cheap however he guarantees his products.
Peter explained that it is a new generation DOT 3.
T cockerell
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- Terry Cockerell
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DOT 3 is what I will be using. It pays to get other people's opinions before making a decision.
I should have done that before ordering pistons from EGGE.
T cockerell
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- mikespeed35
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CORDiallyMike
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- mikekone
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Might the humidity the car is kept in be a decider here? Very dry climates from my experience (I live in Colorado) in non-ACD cars are less needy when it comes to brake bleeds. In contrast, when I lived in humid New England annual brake/clutch bleeds were best. I'd think this would factor into the cost/benefit analysis of which to choose.
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- George van Nostrand
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Restoring 1936 Cord Westchester sedan.2023 A
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- Thomas Wilcock
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- Terry Cockerell
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Thanks for all of your comments they will help others too.
T cockerell
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- mikespeed35
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- wynlaidig
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- JIM.OBRIEN
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The original brake fluid was DOT 3. The down side to DOT 3 is it absorbs moisture out of the air. As a result it should be flushed out every 2 or 3 year (not that many people do this). THe water will accumulate and rust out the master cylinder and wheel cylinders (no problem with the copper lines). If you get soome water in the wrong location and it gets hot it will turn to steam and give you problems whgich will leave you scratching your head trying to figure it out.
THe DOT 5 or silicone brake fluid will not absorb moisture out of the air. THe three problems with DOT 5 is the system needs to be clean before you put it in since it is not compatible with the DOT 3 fluid - not a problem for you unless you assembled the master cylinder and wheel cylinders with DOT 3 fluid. The second issue is the DOT 5 will hold air bubbles so you have to be very careful filling the system. If you shake a can of it you need to let it sit for about 24 hours to let the air bubbles work themselves out. It can be a real task getting the brakes bleed. The third issue is a lot of the rubber will swell with the DOT 5.Make sure all the rubber parts (cups, stop light switch, etc) are compatable with the DOT 5.
The good part of the DOT 5 is you don't have to change the fluid every couple of years and it has a higher boiler point then the DOT 3.
You can choose which one to use. When I restored my sedan I put the DOT 5 in and ran it for 20 years. The only problem i had was getting a stop light switch that worked with the DOT 5.
JIm
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- Mike Brady
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You have made it clear that your plan is to keep the car. So I would be honest with yourself and ask how likely you and the next generation will be flushing the system every two years,
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- uconn_1965
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- Terry Cockerell
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A friend who has a small collection of pre and post WW2 Buicks has been using silicone for many years and recommends it.
My Cord has all new copper nickel lines, new wheel cylinder rubbers as well as in the master cylinder. The system is clean and ready for fluid. I would appreciate any comments or recommendations on using silicone.
T cockerell
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