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  • Greg Frownfelter
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13 Feb 2013 13:31 #24483 by Greg Frownfelter
Greg Frownfelter replied the topic:
I to have had several cars converted since the mid 80'swith absolutely
no troubles.

when I was still in the parts business, I seen some conversions that
were total disasters, all were related to mixing with traces of dot 3

a super clean system or all new parts is the secret
a lot of motorcycles and foreign cars are dot 5
I also have an Avanti II that has been on dot 5 since new

greg

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  • silverghost
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13 Feb 2013 22:28 #24485 by silverghost
silverghost replied the topic:
There is another forum thread already posted & running here on this very topic.

Use the forum's search function above and search "silicone".

This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it. BRAD HUNTER Huntingdon Valley Pa/Ocean City NJ 215 947 4676 Engineer & RE Developer Brass & Classic Auto, Antique Boat, Mechanical Automatic Music Machine, & Jukebox Collector

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13 Feb 2013 23:52 #24486 by Curt Schulze
Curt Schulze replied the topic: DOT5
I agree with all positive comments above. We run DOT5 in all of out collector cars.

One reason DOT5 got a bad rep is the rubber that Wagner used in their cylinders and kits many years ago was not compaitble with DOT5.
Wagner has long since corrected that problem. So be sure to use modern kits.

DOT5 will render old or NOS brake light switches inoperable in about a years time. I really don't know why, but modern switches that judge well are available.

The bitterness of poor quality remains long after the sweetness of low price is forgotten.
Be of Good Cheer
Curt

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14 Feb 2013 13:41 #24489 by Tom_Parkinson
Tom_Parkinson replied the topic:
Hi,

I switched the cars back to DOT 3 from DOT 5 because of the problem with the brake light pressure switches failing once a year. This problem applied to new switches, not just NOS or originals.

In the LaSalle I had actually gone so far as to install a dash idiot light that would come on when the brake lights were powered by the switch. So when it quit working, I knew I had no brake lights, and I changed the switch. Finally, though, I just went back to DOT 3.

Using DOT 3 fluid requires that I flush the system every other year. It's a maintenance burden cost of collecting these cars, but it's a good activity to do with the grand-buddies.

--Tom

With brakes, two cylinders are better than one.

Editor-in-Chief, The Hardtop News Magazine, the Journal of the Michiana Dunes Region, Lambda Car Club International

See pix of 1509A here: http://mbcurl.me/YCSE

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  • mikespeed35
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15 Feb 2013 03:30 #24497 by mikespeed35
mikespeed35 replied the topic:
In 13 years I have replaced the switch twice in the L-29 and in 5 years I have not had to replace the Auburn once. When I examined the failed switch I found nothing wrong with the seal and no brake fluid on the contacts but I did find burned contacts. I put a headlight relay in the switch curcuit and have had no more trouble with failed switches. The Dot 5 was not my problem.
I got the idea from a article I read in a CCCA publication.
CORDially Mike

Mike Huffman

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  • silverghost
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15 Feb 2013 05:53 #24500 by silverghost
silverghost replied the topic:
Mike~~
Great idea with adding the extra relay to take all the high tail lamp load. Then the switch is only a very light load "pilot" switch.
I suspect that an old vintage 6-Volt horn relay might work well here also.

Another option~
If the brake light switch is your only issue, and you suspect the Silicone dot 5 brake fluid is at fault with it's failures, why not use a modern mechanical push button style brake light switch mounted on a small bracket that actuates off of your brake pedal swing arm ? Then just plug the hydraulic line's brake switch screw-in port completely ..

This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it. BRAD HUNTER Huntingdon Valley Pa/Ocean City NJ 215 947 4676 Engineer & RE Developer Brass & Classic Auto, Antique Boat, Mechanical Automatic Music Machine, & Jukebox Collector

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