Proper trailer tie down procedure

I have done both. If you are going to the frame be sure to cross the straps from one side to the other or the car will slide. If you are dong the tires it doesn't seem to move as much.

I have hauled my cars including a recently purchased Duesenberg around the country for 30+ years, I strap front and rear axles, or a frames with straps crossed front and rear, check strap at 50 miles and go I've yet to have any loosening coast to coast or in between

I make sure that all my straps are in great condition. If there is any sign of wear, I toss them. Four 10,000 pound straps work for my vehicles. I also use short straps with D-rings to go around the rear axles. In the front, I just hook into some square holes in the frame just in front of the door handles.

I cross my cables in the front and the back because my trailer is shorter due to the equipment box in the front. It's hard to get to the ratchets if I don't cross them.

I think as long as your car cannot move and your trailer is properly balanced then you should be ok. I think there has to be some compression of your suspension as you cinch down on your straps. Just don't overdo it. I also check my straps at every gas stop.

But you guys knew all that anyway .....

thanks Paul for the link to the USAF loadmaster manual- It is very definative and complete- I had no idea it was such a complicated process- but you can count on the military to cover all the bases. Don't know if it will ever settle the banter but it helped my side of the argument.

I need some feedback to break up a long running dispute among a group of us with old cars and too much time on our hands. It involves a simple question- How do you properly tie down a vehicle for trailer transport?

At this end there seems to be at least two schools of thought:

1. Cinch down the sprung load under tension with ratchet straps so that the suspension is compressed, the car is rigid and the trailer suspension does the work. The counter argument is that this transmits all road shock via an inferior suspension system and causes more delicate car components to take a beating.

2. Cinch down the tires with straps (a la U Haul) and permit the car suspension to work but secure the car front and rear to avoid rolling. The counter is that this permits serious side loads on delicate wheel bearings and wheels and can transmit movement to the tow vehicle.

Personally, I have always tied down my Cord by cinching the rear axle in a cross pattern and the front from the front frame outboard of the spring.

Have we ever had a newsletter article on this? I am sure there are a lot of trailer miles of experience out there and I would appreciate any comments and discussions to settle this "coffee shop fight"

Garry Morgan