Transmission Rebuild Information

Hello Tom. Thanks for the offer to talk with me on the phone. I will be calling you when I have some free time. Retirement is the busiest job I have ever had in my life.
Today I just was reading about the shifter box and saw something about removing the tin cup where the forced oil flows around. So I removed the brass fitting and used a punch to knock out the cup. It came out as if it had been out before. To my surprise it was clean and void of any oils or dirt. Maybe 37 years ago I did bead blast this at work and may have known to remove it and clean it out. I just do not recall doing this needed step.
Can you answer a question about the cross shift vacuum plunger. Is the shaft supposed to have seals on it or is this just a momentary vacuum signal that stops after it causes the shifter arm to travel thru the "H" pattern. Thanks and looking forwards to talking with you. Gary

I'm responding to the inquiry about setting the synchronizer breaking pressures in the transmission. If you want to call me I can explain it. It would be best that you call as it is a bit complicated. You can find my phone number in ACD Directory. I'm home most of the time but leave your phone number if I'm out.

Tom Georgeson
Eureka,CA

So after reading cover to cover I see whats going on in the trans. I have found so much useful information too. I especially like the detailed instructions of how to remove the trans from the car. Whats great is the information on shaft and bushing running clearances. What I'm still wondering about is the synchros pressure release pressures I have read about. Something about 80 to 100 lb release? Not sure what that means or how to measure this.I am a long way from actually opening up my trans other than what I have now. All I have done is take the top cover off and the front oil pump and the shifter box. Shift forks and differential gears still in the box.

Hi Folks-

I run the web store and am the one who ships all of the orders. All Cord transmission manuals shipped in the past 3 or so years included the addendum sheet which was compiled by Jim O'Brien. I have a pdf of this sheet that I am happy to send to anyone else who needs it. Just send me a private message or email at jkerns25 "at" gmail.com

Thanks,
Justin

Hello Frank.
If you give me an email address thru the pm we have here I will send you the addendum. Gary I would not put your email address on any open forum. Way to many scammers looking for real email address's to send you stuff or take away stuff from you. Gary

Gary,

Got the email and the sheet. Thank You!!

--Tom

@Frank,

i sent you a PM. Check your inbox above.

--Tom

Hi Gary, I'm also interested in the addendum sheet.
Thanks
Frank

Hi Gary,

Thank you so much!

--Tom

Tom I got the pm. Will email you the addendum sheet. Gary

Hi Gary,

I sent you a PM. Look in your mailbox at the top of the page.

--Tom

Hello Everyone. Today I received my trans repair manual from the ACD store... Very surprised with the details too. Interesting addendum too... A piece of copy paper telling to some changes were done after the printing in 1986. As funny as that sounds its sure nice to know before doing a repair wrong. So I'm thankful for that. Looks like I might be purchasing a small lathe for possible trans modifications. So far I have not seen anything I can't machine on any lathe but will post more whats found when its apart all over the bench. Of course it wont look like what Henry was doing to the 6 transmissions he was rebuilding like the factory assembly line. I believe he has done 6 or 8 once before. I recall seeing it posted in one of the monthly magazines from the club. So for now no questions yet but I'm sure they are coming..... Thanks everyone..

Gary,
Have fun reading the book. Please note there are a couple of minor mistakes in the book.

The shims on the lower shaft are to set the insertion depth on the ring and pinion. The shims have to be between the retaining ring on the bearing and the transmission case. You also have to have the grease pump bolted in place to check the insertion depth since this is what holds the bearing and the pinion in place.

Tom is also correct - you need to increase the size of the third gear thrust washer. The original was 3/16" thick. this was too thin to carry the load. you need to increase this to 5/16" or 3/8" (I go with 5/16" usually) you can get the new thrust washers from Lee Foldenauer. Note the new thrust washers have to be properly heat treated to work correctly.

When you get ready ask more questions. These transmissions are a bit tricky and must be set up correctly for the shifting to work properly.

Jim

Gary,when you've read it there will be more questions .

Thanks so much Tom. I just ordered the trans manual. Had no idea it was available. Am looking forwards to studying it when it arrives.

Hi gary,

The club has published a Transmission book that covers what you need. You can buy this through the club's online store:

www.shop.phpstack-1081784-3880776.cloudwaysapps.com/product.sc ? ... egoryId=10

The single item that stands out in my mind from it (it's been decades since I read it) is to use a Heavy Duty thrust washer in lieu of the factory's too-light duty one.

But get the book--it's inexpensive and it knows a lot more than I remember!

--Tom

Where can I buy a book or diagram of what my transmission should be? I recently found out why the top shaft (I call it the main shaft) is floating back and forth in the case. Seems the front shift fork cover needs to be attached to the front of the trans to keep the shaft stationary. I did not know the bearings were loose in the case either. I was looking at the Cord being restored in Europe and wondered why the cluster gear shaft had the shims between the front bearing and the case. I'm thinking thats to shim the pinion gear runout of the ring gear but not sure. I can only say I too am learning every time I work on this Cord like others have mentioned many times about... "We are still learning"...