Fuel Pump for 1936 Cord

As with an Auburn, doesn't the thermostat serve a dual purpose as a flow restrictor (aka water circulating too fast does get proper air flow via radiator to cool properly) ?

That being said, I always drill a hole in the thermostat to allow for some circulation when thermostat is closed (eliminates air pockets and car "warms" up slower).

And, I run a 160 degree thermostat in everything (aka not a 180).

I agree to blocking off manifold (a bad idea in a Supercharged Auburn as well due to porous casings) - fuel does not need pre-heated anymore (it is much more combustible now than in 1936- 1937) and I doubt icing is too much a problem either.

I fully agree with Tom, my three Cords I drive all have this conversion and it has made a big difference. I have driven my S/C Custom Beverly in the winter at temps in the low 30's and it does fine. It does tend to run rich, but I would rather change plugs than overheating. Two years ago my son and I drove the Auburn parade with Buehrig family in two of our cars, and then turned around and got back into the parade again in the park without overheating even at a slow pace. It may not work for all, but it works for me. Remember to block all (3) passages in the intake mainifold.

Hot water to the intake manifold is used to heat up the fuel mixture during cold weather so the engine will run better. When the weather is warm it isn't needed and it's presents can cause the engine to vapor lock when it is shut down. Eliminating the water removes some of this heat. I live in California and don't have to worry about cold weather driving. That is why I blocked the water off. If you only drive your car during the warm time of the year you don't need to heat the intake manifold. I did drilled out my main carb. jets and feel it increased engine performance at all engine speeds.

As to no thermostats. Several of my Cord owner friends said they didn't use them so I took mine out a couple of years ago. My temperature usually is below 180 degrees and the highest has been about 190 degrees. I now have new heads which I purchased from Jim Higman, a ACD member, some years ago.

Tom Why is there no water going to the intake and why no thermostats? I thought water was needed in the intakes to help the gas turn into a burnable gaseous fuel. Are you running the original heads or do you run the newer high capasity heads. Thanks for any answers.

I have been running the early Ford fuel pump for about 10 years. It works fine most of the time but on a long climb up a hill I'll sometimes have to turn on my electric fuel pump. I haven't look for the correct one as this works okay. I do have my fuel line insulated, there is no water going to the intake manifold and I don't use thermostat. My Cord (2517 A) is a late 1936 one so it should have the other kind to be correct.

The recent article on fuel pumps in the ACD Newsletter (No. 10, 2014) caught my attention. My 36 Westchester (Serial No. 1752) has the early style top mount fuel pump J10539. The article implied that it was declared "obsolete" as early as Serial number 1377. However, it appears that it may not have been until May of 36 that they switched to the top mount with the glass filter (J10539).

In previous posts from 2013, from Tom Georgeson, he mention that BobDrake.com has a replacement that was basically a 1933 to 1946 Ford. It appears to fit directly on the post.

Am I better off finding a "newer" fuel pump with the glass bowl mounted upright or continue to use the current style?

The original design (replacement from Bob Drake) is easy to find, appears to be a match and I have an electric pump installed. Thanks for any advice.