Fuel Tank Door

Thanks jazzman for the information. I recall seeing that some time ago but forgot about it. Surprisingly whats seen in the pics is exactly what I was dealing with. My issues were with the door hinge on the body. I did all I could to loosen the hinge screws on the door but it was impossible to reach under the door. Luckly I was able to remove the hinge pin. I feel someone before me removed it because it came out very easy with a small tap and punch from the bottom up out the top. The hinge connected to the body has 2 screws into the bodyy and the one screw with a nut in the same area. The screw was too long to allow a box end wrecnh to fit over it and even then I needed to heat and bend the wrench to fit . It was still a murderous job working in that tight area. Maybe if the tank was out of the car I may of had more working room. We sure wont have this trouble when it goes back together thats for sure. My hands are very well crippled up from years of hard work in power plants. I have had operations on both of them but my left is my primary use hand and its nearly useless now after the last operation. That was a year ago and just a moth or so ago I was starting to get feelings back is some of my fingers. When we are young we feel nothing can hurt us. then we get older and wow things sure don't heal like they used to. But I can still point at the fools driving all over the roads here in sunny Ca.

In the restoration guidelines are photos and good info, I don't know if you have seen it good luck Carlton

So whats the trick to removing the fuel tank door? I have worked on this for many hours. I keep finding issues like a hiddn nut behind the hinge at the top. Then the bolt is too long so I can't get a box end wrench on the nut. Can't get a nut driver in there either. Ended up heating up and bending a 5/16 combo wrench to reach the nut. Lots of back and forth on the nut with plenty of aerokroil to loosen the threads. Funny but the 2 lower bolts are just screwed into the body work. Those slotted screws sure are a mess to remove.
vThen comes the lock removel. I soaled the nut with kroil for months. Still would not break loose. I finally buffed as much of the threads as possible heating it up a bit. Then grabbed the outside shinny part and a deep socket broke it loose but sure was tight all the way off. Lots of back and forth with kroil finally got it off the door. Found the way too smal anti rotation pin broken so thats a repair so time in the future. No idea if I was the first person working on these parts since the factory but sure glad its finally done. Next job is the hood lock handle and the louver contact pieces. Trying to get all the Cad plated parts in one pile.