Engine Tear Down Finds

Measured all the bearings for the rods. Seems the journal is 1.996. I don't have what it a stock measurement so I can't say if these are undersize. So far the bores appears to be straight and only show a small wear area at the very top of the bore on the bottom side. It goes around the bore about 10 to 15% so its looking great so far. Have not miced the pistons or the bores to see what the fit clearance is yet.

I decided some time ago to tear down my engine to make sure what I have. My father told me the cylinder taper was 0.002 and the rods and amins were rebabbited when the engine was essembled iin 1961. My findings so far are very interesting. First off the oil pan drain plug was finger tight. No leakage too. The flywheel (torqued to 90 lbs) needed to be hammered off. Will find out why later. The water pump coolant casting to the block had tight bolts on the top but the bottoms were loose. Oil pan had a length of angle iron welded to the bolt rail I suspect to strengthen the gasket area. It caused every bolt to be so close now to the pan edge that only an open end wrench could be used to loosen or tighten them. That wil be made oem later on too. All but one of the pistons appears to be new but probably they are all new. The rings look new and are tight in the ring grooves of the piston. Not worn out or loose in the grooves like is sometimes found. The rod torque is 40 lbs but no cotter keys found in the bolt to nut. Not sure why. Pins appear to be floating and the rod bushings feel great. So far it seems like this is a newly rebuilt engine like my Dad said. Now the not so good findings. One rod babbit is so thin its flaking off. Am off to Egge today with that. The timing chain is shot. Lots of slop in it. Crank is stil in the block as is all the valves and cam. Am very interested to see what the needle bearing rockers are in that. Dad said they were upgraded when the engine was in the machine shop being worked on. I need to find out why the oil level sender was not working too but it could be I never had it wired up too. Still want to look at it and verify its working before reassembly happens. The clutch disc is ok but I will have it relined where I had my brakes relined. I just can't see not doing that because its such a big job to pull the engine and trans to replace the clutch. Remember the hood, fence, and then the axles and universal joints will need to be pulled. Thats not including the work trying to keep dirt out of the upper and lower king pin bearings and the universals. Then there is the radiator removel too. Just too much work for a few dollars saved. I honestly feel the car will never need a clutch disc with the amount of miles I plan to drive it but why take that chance.