Replacing Heads

There is a Co. called Time Serts that also makes thread inserts. I used them on a BB Chevy once. The inserts are great unless, as Jim says, the hole is near the edge of the block. You have to drill a bigger hole than a helicoil requires.
Cordially Mike

Hi Gary,

Where did you see that the chrome acorn nuts were a factory option? I have never seen or heard that before.

You are correct the new new heads are thicker and require longer bolts. Just be careful to measure them. I have seen some that were a little to long and bottomed out.

One other note on Heli-coils, I have had problems with these int he past both leaking by and pulling out. The good thing about them is if you strip one bolt (usually the last one you are doing the final torque on) you can install the Heli-coil without removing the head. However because of the problems I've encountered I use a full threaded insert instead called EZ-LOC. The good points about these is you can drill and tap oversized to a standard thread so you don't need the special tools. They are coated in Loctite so the outer threads seal when installed. and the best part is if you ever strip one out you can just remove the insert and install a new one. They also make thin wall inserts for some of the Cord blocks that have the holes for the head bolts too close to the edge.

One last note to Tim - the washers under the head bolts are thick flat washers that are cad plated.

AREN'T THESE CARS FUN TO WORK ON? - I'm off to install a wiring harness

Hi,

When my dad and brother rebuilt the engine for 1509A, they found that many of the bolt holes were stripped. Their solution, in 1955, was to drill them out and tap them oversize for studs. I don't know if heli-coils even existed back then. If they did, I am sure that my dad would not have trusted them.

Collectively we made studs on the South Bend lathe with one size (I am guessing 9/16") at one end and another size at the other end. I recall as a 6-year old being allowed to engage the thread lever on the lathe as this was being done.

As a result the block has all studs and nuts. Among the collection of parts there's a bag of chromed acorns that were purchased to go over the nuts.

I am not going to convert it back. For my Cord, judging is not an option for many reasons in addition to the engine bolts.

--Tom

Hello Tim. My reason for wanting to use chrome acorn nuts and studs under them is I read the acorn nuts were a factory option. If they were not an option then I sure wont be using them. As for reusing the original bolts. I thought the new aftermatket heads required a longer bolt because they had larger coolant areas in them so longer bolts were needed. I do not have the original washers for the head bolts. I was 10 years old when Dad and a good friend were putting the engine back together Friday and Saturday nites. Now some beer was consumed during they late nite jobs too. I have found the gaskets they made from the old yellow pages front and back covers. The oil pump to the block had one there. The front timing chain cover is another one but I'm sure that was made from some other large piece of cardboard material. I'm seeing the letters and writing on this gasket material. Too bad Dad did not know gasket material was available from several places too. Or they knew but felt the hell with it. Its interesting to find this from all those years ago. Dad passed on in 1997. One of my wishes was to take him for a drive in the finished Cord. Sadly that never happened. I feel he is watching me now.

Hi Gary: why use non-original bolts on the heads? It's just as easy to use correct ones. As others have noted, head bolts should have a "w" on them, although no marking would be acceptable. They also should be silver cad plated and a silver cad lock nut underneath it.
Just a thought.
Tim.

I am no expert, but I have removed my 810 heads many, many, times! I think with studs, you will have a very difficult time removing the heads at a later date! I recommend using heli-coils where necessary and the proper length Bolts with lots of "never-seize" lubricant. Then you can r&r a head in about 1hr without difficulty, if you blow a head gasket! (If you seldom drive your car, other ways may work) Ric.

I realize we can buy several differnt heads made by several differnt companies. Is there a company I should not buy from and why? Also will judging be a penalty if new larger water capasity heads are used? My plan is to use chrome acorn nuts and studs so the old bolts will be saved no matter what. Thanks for any comments.