Cord Trans Lockout Lever

Gary, the lever I replaced had also been welded up a couple of times.
The interlock system is a (quick)fix for a gearbox problem, and at least the lever seems to be poorly designed. I was surprised that the slot did in fact extend all the way to the end.

Any stresses on the lever are in the smallest cross section.
Having said that, the only times there will be any stress on the lever is when, as Jim said the plunger is not free to move, or when miss shifting.

With the limited use these cars see, a new lever made to original specs will probably last a long time.( I do agree that this is not an optimum solution!)

As far as I know titanium is notch sensitive, so this might not be the perfect stuff for these levers.

Frank

Thanks for the responce Jim. Digging up information is what I like to do so thanks for all this great information on what way to go. the items that makes me wonder why so much is the different ways the generators were mounted. So far I have seen probably 6 different ways to mount them. All of which seem to be correct but why. Only reason I can come up with is different length belts.

Gary,

There is no booklet on what is correct on these cars. A good place to start is with the judging standards section on the Forums. Another good place to look is the engineering change notes.

The biggest problem is during the two years they made the 810/812 cars they changed almost everything at least once, sometime 2 or 3 times. So what is right on one car is wrong on another. Then to make it even more difficult you have the left over '36 cars that were renumbered to '37 cars so they may have had early features that were not on the later cars and also there were cars that were "put aside" at the factory and then used later.

To really get what is correct on your car takes a lot of research and detective work.

Jim

Thank you Jim for the information. Seeing your a judge on these cars can you tell me if there is a book on whats concidered correct on these cars. I'm wondering how a car is judged to be correct. I want to bring back my car once. Restoring it with incorrect parts is not what I want to do. I'm not planning a 100 points show car but the parts have to be correct for me to be happy. Thanks for your continued help too.

Hi Gary,

I've seen quite a few of these broken over the years and there are two things that I've attributed these too.

First is dirt - the plunger has to slide in and out of the side of the transmission easily. over the years grease and dirt build up and the plunger doesn't slide very easily or at all. If someone painted the outside part of the plunger this adds to the problem because the paint acts as a pusher to push the dirt into the housing.

Second is worn pins that the plunger goes into. When the plunger is inserted it separates two pins that move to lock the shift rails in position and prevent the transmission from shifting. I've found these (and the plunger) worn which can make it harder for the plunger to move in (also if there is a bunch of dirt in the transmission oil resulting in the pins not moving freely). Also if these are severely worn it will not lock the transmission in gear and you can jump out of gear.

If you pull the lever off, pull out the plunger and check to make sure it's clean, slides freely and not worn too badly.

Henry, you've seen a lot more of these then me, What's your observation?

Jim

This question was asked a few months ago by another member but no real answer came. My question is what is the cause of the lever on the side of the trans to break. When I was helping the other member with demensions I noticed mine had been broken and repaired twice. I have some Titanium about the same thickness as the lever and was thinking about making several of them. It sure would be nice if I knew why these levers break. Making them stronger is probably not fixing the problem unless they are just too thin to begin with. Thanks for any help on this.