Inner Universal Joint Housing bushing

Good luck. I'm relatively new to the forum, so I would probably call some of the Cord guys for info.

Thanks again Paul. I was concidering using oilite bushing for the lubing propertys of that material. What came out of the inner universal joints is not that material. I would probably need to send it to a lab I know of that can determine what the material actually is. I feel these inner bushing are a factory installed item because they look very well made. My car was taken off the road in 1949 ot 1950. It then became a basket case. Dad bought it in 1961. His partner decided to sell it because he needed the storage space so Dad and I reassembled it and towed the car home where it sat fromabout 1965 till I took over ownership in 1975. I made up a wire harness enough to drive the car once in 1977. We never had all the electric vacuum shifting parts because another owner was converting it to manual shift using some of the original electrical switches. It was never completed. I had Stan rebuild the water pump. I placed a 1 gallon can of gas on the passenger fender with a new 6 volt battery. I had the trans cover off and had my wife shift it to ist gear and we went for a drive around our neighborhood. It must have been a site for everyone. The drive was about a miles long. Since then it has been taken apart again. I hope to have it driveable by this time next year. Its a project with so many questions. I just wish this forum was faster with answers. You have been a great help as have several others.

I'm guessing they must have used Oilite bushings which are oil impregnated. If you use super Oilite, that is remarkably sturdy, though I have no experience with it. Check it out here:
en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Oilite

Hello Paul,
Thanks for all this information. I'm not following how the inner universal joint gets any lubrication because its outside of the seal. All the grease is inside the universal joint. I'm not near the manufacturing stage for this bushing yet so I will continue looking at the design. Thanks for the tip on the 660 material too.

My opinion is that bushing design is a bit of a black art. The specifications largely depend in the engineer. For perspective, bearing clearance is .005. Your bushing clearance of .024 is crazy loose. Bushing thickness would depend largely on bushing material and the structure supporting it. And it needs plenty of lubrication. I like a double loop groove for slow rotating, high pressure applications. And I spec out the loop to be open on the ends for good grease movement/lubrication. I also use 660 bronze. Now, I have no idea what Cord engineers spec'd out, but I usually give great weight to the factory engineers design. My opinion is worth exactly what you just paid for it...

I understand the inner universal joints housing has a brass bushing in the end of it that supports the drive shaft that sticks out of it at the transmission. I'm told that factory bushing is too thin and needs to be modified. So how thick does it have to be made. I see Stan sells these bushings but are they modified or stock. I have not called to ask yet. Also what is the running clearance to the shaft on these. I mearsured mine and found about 24 thousands clearance. Seems kind of a lot but I realize its a slow turning shaft on the bushing too. Thanks for any help.