Coolant

I too have heard that distilled water robs metals to equalize it back to normal minerl levels but. After working in the power plant operations for 30 years I never found this to be an issue. Steam boilers that are called super critical run such a clean water that 9 parts per billion disolved iron makes it dirty. Super critical is water that heated to at least 746 degrees and pressurized to 3206 lbs. At that stage it has all the normal properties of water again. That means "if" you could actually see into the high pressure lines the steam is hot and compressed back to look and flow like water again. We then increased the temps to 1050 degrees and increased the pressure to 4500 lbs. The screaming sound it made was deafening. In my rebuilt diesel in my Ford pickup I run only distilled water and quality coolant well above the auto parts chain stores have on the shelfs. My custom radiator is all aluminum too. 9 years and no issues.

The Number 2 issue of the of the 2013 Newsletter had a two page article about "tap water and chlorides" and their use in our cars. The article recommends using reverse osmosis water in your engine. This water can be purchased at many supermarkets. I purchased mine at a local one, it was produced as I stood there. I have been told by different people, and also read, that you shouldn't use distilled water as it will rob metals from the engine to replace metals that was removed by the distilling.

Based on the discussion and the competitor's "research article", I would not want to use the Evans product in my '37 Cord's engine; however, I'm now tempted to try the much-more affordable No-Rosion product in my '72 Volvo 1800ES.

The down side I see with any of these "special" coolants is if you have a serious leak on the road and can't add water to the special coolant and don't have extra coolant with you, it's tow time!
Cordially Mike

Frank&JJ wrote: Matt, to further confuse matters, here's a "test report"by a competitor.

www.norosion.com/evanstest.htm

As I said before,the one thing worrying me is flammability.

I did a small test and it will burn when heated with a blowtorch.
So spraying evans cooling fluid across your heated exhaust manifold may
not be a good idea.

Frank

Hello Frank,

with such a high flammability, it is maybe not a good idea to use that stuff as a coolant.


I just checked what flash/flame- and boiling-point is labeled for propylene glycol


Boiling point: 185°C (365°F)


Flash (flame) point: 104°C (219°F) <!-- s:shock: --><img src="{SMILIES_PATH}/icon_eek.gif" alt=":shock:" title="Shocked" /><!-- s:shock: --> <!-- s:shock: --><img src="{SMILIES_PATH}/icon_eek.gif" alt=":shock:" title="Shocked" /><!-- s:shock: --> <!-- s:shock: --><img src="{SMILIES_PATH}/icon_eek.gif" alt=":shock:" title="Shocked" /><!-- s:shock: --> <!-- s:shock: --><img src="{SMILIES_PATH}/icon_eek.gif" alt=":shock:" title="Shocked" /><!-- s:shock: -->


Cheers

Matt

Matt, to further confuse matters, here's a "test report"by a competitor.

www.norosion.com/evanstest.htm

As I said before,the one thing worrying me is flammability.

I did a small test and it will burn when heated with a blowtorch.
So spraying evans cooling fluid across your heated exhaust manifold may
not be a good idea.

Frank

Frank&amp;JJ wrote: Mike,
Evans claims a -40 F freezing point for it's NPG+ coolant and a -79 F freezing point for it's NPG coolant.

Frank

Hello,

if I get it right, Evans NPG coolant based on propylene glycol, that kind of Coolan liquids are used aswell for the heat-transport in solarthermics collector systems.

It seems to me that the main difference between these two products is the price. Here in Germany the solarthermics liquid costs (approx.) less than one third (1/3) of the Evans NPG coolant...


Cheers

Matt

Mike,
Evans claims a -40 F freezing point for it's NPG+ coolant and a -79 F freezing point for it's NPG coolant.

Frank

You must all keep in mind that this coolant is NOT ANTIFREEZE. It WILL Freeze!
CORDially Mike

Albert, JJ decided to just try it out.
Looking at the numbers on the Evans website and elsewhere had me worried a bit about lower heat transfer and wear on the waterpump due to higher viscosity, but all seems to work properly.
The one thing that does worry me is the flammability.

Frank

That's good information, Frank. Thanks very much. This topic was the subject of a very limited discussed in August 2004 between Bill Hummell and Josh Malks (see forums.phpstack-1081784-3880776.cloudwaysapps.com/phpbb2/viewto ... ss+coolant ). Josh did not seem to prefer the waterless coolant at the time, but I wonder if there is more information available now?

It's good to know that the waterless coolant seems to have been effective in the Bentley, but how did you decide it was safe to use?

We're trying it out in JJ's Bentley MK VI.
No problems so far.
Coolant temperature is a bit lower, something I didn't expect.
No more loss of coolant after shutdown when hot.

We'll be running it in the Bentley this year and if all continues to go well
do the Cord next year.



Frank

Has anyone tried Evans Waterless Coolant in a Cord engine? ( www.evanscooling.com/ )

I saw two videos from Jay Leno's Garage (the newer video is at

; the older video is at

).

The Leno videos seem to be sponsored commercials for the manufacturer, but they do state that the waterless coolant is better for aluminum engine parts than water or a water/glycol mixture. In addition to being a "lifetime" coolant, the fact that there is no water in it would be easier on the water pump.

Leno stated that water in the cooling system caused problems in his Duesenberg in the past, but since using the waterless coolant, he has not had a recurrence of the problem. If this is true, then would it be reasonable to use the waterless coolant in a Cord engine?