New Cord Owner learning the car.

Jon, here is the link and if you have no partslist, then ask Stan to send one to you.

www.auburncordparts.com/Auburn_C ... Parts.html

Best regards Philipp

The lever is tight to the cross-shift rod, the lever is screw clamped at the bottom of the lever. Where can you buy a modern crosshift micro switch? You said that Stan is selling them do you have his e-mail or phone #?

Bill I have the washers under the bracket for the upper vacuum cylinder,
Thanks for alerting me to check them.

Car is still on the lift and continues to shift all gears fine.

I am awaiting my order for Lubriplate SPO-277 to come in and then I will change the transaxel lube and clean the filter, at the same time I will change the drain plugs to magnetic plugs.
I hope I don?t find too much metal.

Jon

Jon:

My 37 Westchester had / now occasionally has the same problem. Originally, I couldn't get the car into 4th gear. By accident, I double clutched when trying to get it to go into 4th and it worked. I have no idea why it would shift into all other gears with a single use of the clutch but would only go into 4th if you double clutched. I just lived with it.

Then, Mike Brady noticed that I did not have the proper washers under the bracket that supports the vac. tank. The washers changed the angle of the tank / shaft and it started to shift into 4th without double clutching. Now, occasionally (when car is hot) it needs to be double clutched to go into 4th.

Bill McLaughlin

Is on the cross-shiftrod the leaver still tight or loose and is it welded/brazed or srewed ? These come loose sometimes, which is why it won't shift enough to the side, same if the connection between the Corss-shiftleaver to Shiftarm is worn, also check the main vacuum-cylinder rubber suspension for bad rubbers. a good option would be the modern-type crosshift micoswitch, these are reliable and can be adjusted if needed, Stan is selling them. best regards Philipp

Hi,

As the car seems to be shifting fine again should I attempt to bend the shift lever straight again? Or let sleeping dogs lye.

I had the same question on a different car (Non-ACD), and I chose poorly.

My advice is to consider the cost of making or buying a replacement part. Than you'll have your answer. If it keeps you awake at night, get the replacement first--before you bend the existing one.

--Tom

I did pull the transmission cover off and there are some scratches on the underside.

The Shift vertical lever mounted on the front of the transmission has been bent by someone to the right side of the car, my guess to get the car to go into 4 th.

I have the car on a lift and found that with my wife (driving), the car would not shift into 4 th. If I help the sift rod by pulling slightly to the right side of the car the upper vacuum cylinder would immediately pull it into gear. By moving the interlock switch further to the left or driver?s side of the car I was able to get the car to shift into 4 th, while still retaining all the other gears. I have only tested the car on the lift as the last couple of days have been raining outside.

As the car seems to be shifting fine again should I attempt to bend the shift lever straight again? Or let sleeping dogs lye.

Jon

Jon, in addition to what Pat say's: Before you remove the trany-cover, check if the two small brackets that support the fenders and tranycover aginst the stubframe, are present. Much to my understanding, the missing brackets can cause the tranycover to rub aginst the shiftarm and that's what Pat refers to the scraches/traces on the underside of the trany-panel. best regards Philipp

I would remove the transmission cover and check the back side to see if the main shift cylinder rod is rubbing on this cover. If you have the cover off, you can test with the car running (wheels off the ground) with an assistant. Also trying driving without the cover.
It could be a fault in the column shift electrical, plug at firewall, cross shift switch, main cylinder switch, or an adjustment of side shift or main shift mechanism. The last possibility is an internal problem (least likely).

The shift system requires total reliability and repeatability of the electrical shift system. I have previously posted a through test of the electrical shift system, and I find that this crucial to having a reliable system.

The CV joint is vented through the tube as you described. The joints should only have grease in them, not gear lube. Often gear lube leaks from the differential into the CV, thinning out the grease and causing and over filled condition.

Good luck with your car. The 810-812 Cords are wonderful road car, but it requires a lot of sorting out the "bugs" and education in its mechanisms.

I now have about 300 miles on the car since buying it. I drove it on the highway for about 70 miles and for the first time it did not want to go into 4 th. Going from 3 rd to 4 th it would stay in neutral when you let out the clutch ( yes I had the clutch pedal to the floor ). About 3 miles down the road I tried it again and it went in. Up on the lift I could not get it to go into 4 th. I just received the Cord transmission book from ACD Club, so I will start to try to debug the system.

In driving the car I have been getting a small amount of what looks like and smells like gear lube that is coming out of the 2 copper tubes that come up on either side of the transmission. These tubes are originating at the inner cv joint, they have a plug with a small hole in the top (looks to me these are air vents). Is this an indication that the cv lube is too full? If so what do I do about it?

Thanks for all your help

Jon