Shifting fun

Pat, thanks for your extended test set.
It made me take a harder look at the schematics and different tests.

The switch itself is fairly intact. No breaks or cracks, rivets firm.
The slotted disk is ok, I've sleeved the slotted part on the outside to make sure it will not crack.


The car is not at fault,my understanding of the system is.

Without the motor running, the interlock switch will not cycle when testing.
This means that the green/red wire to the selector switch will not be energized, when shifting to reverse,first and fourth.

The white wire will remain energized so there is a partial contact when shifting into R,1 and 4 and good contact in 2 and 3.

Another puzzle solved!

Thanks
Frank

I have found that the contacts in the rotary switch need to be bent in as far as possible. This makes it more difficult to insert the pencil rod, and you need to insert it slowly and rotate as it is inserted. I like to assemble and test the unit without it being installed on the column. Often the wires jammed in that small space tend to cause problems or a sloppy and worn inner ID of the phenolic switch (often a part of the switch is broken that supports the shaft). Also make sure you install a wire spacer. If a contact tends to rotate (held on by a rivet), epoxy it in place. I also use a small shrink tube over the soldered terminals. A round paper insulator keeps the connections from touching the aluminum shifter casing. I ahav also pasted an expanded list of test for shifting (please let me know if there are any errors).

Steering Column Transmission Switch testing (disconnect at plug to test)
Test #1

Hot wire is RED

Gearshift in ?. Check this wire

Reverse - Green wire
Reverse - Black wire
First - Green wire
First - Black wire
Second - Yellow-black tracer
Third - Yellow-black tracer
Fourth - Red-green tracer
Fourth - Yellow

Test #2

Hot wire is GREEN-RED tracer

Gearshift in ?. Check this wire

Reverse - Brown wire
First - Blue wire
Second - Brown wire
Third - Blue wire
Fourth - Brown wire
Neutral - White wire



Transmission Cross Shift testing: (wires disconnected from switch)

Test #3

Hot wire is Green-Red tracer:

Gearshift in ?. Check this wire

Reverse - Green wire
First - Green wire
Second - Yellow-black tracer
Third - Yellow-black tracer
Fourth - Red-green tracer

Test #4

Hot wire is White wire:

Gearshift in ?. Check this wire

Reverse - Yellow-black tracer + Red-green tracer
First - Yellow-black tracer + Red-green tracer
Second - Green + Red-green tracer
Third - Green + Red-green tracer
Fourth - Green + Yellow-black tracer


Main Cylinder Neutral Switch testing: (remove wires at solenoid)

Test #4

Hot wire is White wire:

Cylinder Rod Position in ?. Check this wire

Cylinder rod out - Blue wire
Cylinder Rod in - Brown
Cylinder Rod center - No connection

Note:
Center position should allow only a small movement to make a connection (1/8? approx.)



Clutch Switch Testing: (wires disconnected)

Test #5

Hot wire is Green wire: (Ignition on)

Clutch is in this position: Check this wire

Clutch engage (pedal up) - No connection
Clutch dis-engage (pedal down) - Red and Blue

Pat,Tom, thanks for the replys.

I do have the correct full color diagram.
I also know that the tests Pat is referring to were misprinted in newsletter 2002 no 6 and that Pat is posting the correct one.

Wiring up the system wasn't much of a problem with the new loom.
The trickiest part for me was soldering up the selector switch as I have the
loom without the connector plug.

If I combine the diagram with Pats(Ethan Turner) tests my thoughts are that
test 1 checks the liniar part of the steering colum selector switch and test 2 checks out the rotary part of the switch.

I have been using Henry Portz test light setup to check out the wiring.
Everything checks out exept that in reverse, first and fourth I get a light(connection) only if I shift halfway up the gate, and not if I shift all the way.
Second and third connect from halfway up to all the way in the gate.

The blue wire connects in first and third.
The brown wire connects in second,fourth and reverse.

So my problem seems to be in the rotary part of the switch. But how?As second and third work without a hitch why not reverse,first and fourth?

Thanks for you thoughts on this.
Frank

Hi,

I have not yet had had the joy of wiring up my shifter mechanism, but I recall reading that an INCORRECT wiring diagram from the factory was in circulation for quite a while.

Is your diagram correct? Check Josh's site for a beautiful color diagram of the CORRECT shifting circuit.

--Tom

Here is a method I use to test (Ethan Turner):

Test #1

Hot wire is RED

Gearshift in ?. Check this wire

Reverse- Green wire
Reverse- Black wire
First- Green wire
First- Black wire
Second- Yellow-black tracer
Third- Yellow-black tracer
Fourth- Red-green tracer
Fourth- Yellow wire

Test #2

Hot wire is GREEN-RED tracer

Gearshift in ?. Check this wire

Reverse- Brown wire
First- Blue wire
Second- Brown wire
Third- Blue wire
Fourth- Brown wire
Neutral- White wire
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I'm having a"slight"problem getting the 812 to shift correctly.

I've set up a testbox to check the electrics and get the following results:
With the gearbox in neutral.
shifting into reverse lights up lamp 1, lamp 4 lights up only if I put the lever halfway up the slot.
shifting into first lights up lamp1,lamp 2 lights up only if I put the lever halfway up the slot.
shifting into second lights up lamp 4.
shifting into third lights up lamp 2.
shifting into fourth lights up lamp 5,lamp 4 lights up erraticly and/or if I move the lever a bit.

This leads me to believe that the problem is in the selector switch.
I've pulled it, but can find no problems. Contacts are clean and not worn out, there are no cracks in the housing.
The spring for the switch disk seems to put a reasonable pressure on the
contacts.

Before ordering a new selector switch I would like some advice about what the problem is.
Thanks
Frank