Cord 812 made for Europe

Thank you, Gary.

I think I'll be using Grade 8 bolts for that part of the assembly...

--Tom

This information came from a service bulletin dated Februry 1st, 1937. Cord 812 models shipped from the factory prior to serial number 812 1819S should receive a correction of the stop screw adjustment for the steering radius. These were set at exactly 1 7/8 inch. The should be increased to 2 1/16 inch. Its also advised that all 810 models also be changed to the 2 1/16 inch stop screw length. So I measured mine because the serial number of my Cord is 1748S. I found mine set for 2 1/2 inch adjustment. I have not changed this setting and how no idea who might have in the past 70 years. For now I'm ok with this measurement.

Turn stops were set on maximum. Wheel bearing has no problem - I dismounted it only because of inspection. The whole Axle is useful again, I have checked and measured it today. Only Idea i have is, taht the small bolts that keeps the bronze cap broke off.

Hi,

Gary--please post the turn radius settings.

Lore, not documentation, tells me that the front bearings are supposed to be the "tight" bearings. Ergo the high price for them. I do not have documentation on that, however.

As for this front end issue, I am stunned at this damage. This took a LOT of misplaced energy. I suspect the turn radius adjustment also, but wonder if the wheel bearing seized up or disintegrated.

I will watch for further developments!

--Tom

Thats a sorry mess. My guess is the axle broke but how I don't know. It appears the outer housing has spun in the knuckle too. I'm not sure about that wheel bearing. I'm told they are supposed to be the New Departure 55509 bearing and a double roller type. Ebay has them all the time from around 40 to 60 bucks. I found one with a C3 rating for $560.00 too. The C3 means the normal internal tollerances are as tight as they can be made and used for very special installations. Nothing like this will do our front ends any good and probably harm it because they need to have some slop in the bearing to scheel fit. It looks like the axle snapped off just behind the wheel bearing I just mentioned. You have the same axles I have and I was told they are the Bendix type. Probably available thru stan or ACD parts in Oklahoma too. Same with the damaged outer housing. Very sorry to see this kind of failure. Were your turn stops set correctly? I was just reading about the critical length of that setting today. I can post it if you want it..

Does anybody has the same experience? I have no idea why it happend (while parkig in to the garage).

www.facebook.com/renovace.hicar ... 744&type=1

Looks great! Thanks for sharing the pictures ...

I really appreciate that the unusual configuration of the car (e.g. headlights, "Cord Special" writing) was kept during the restoration. This way it was sleeping in the "Malmerspach Reserve" of the famous French Schlumpf Collection since four or more decades. Luckily unmolested because Fritz Schlumpf didn't like US cars and it probably was only a by-catch when buying some of his ~580 European cars.

A distinctive Cord with a highly interesting provenance! I envy the owner a little bit and hope I will be able to see the car one day, by chance.

Kay

easier way: cord.webgarden.cz/galerie/cord-812/finishing

Almost finished, new pictures added: hicar.mypage.cz/galerie/cord-812-special

Does anybody uses a retrograde valve in an input for vacuum system? - I think it could help.

Is it possible to find somewhere a complete wiring diagram for this car?

Hi Alik,

A great big [size=200:1egadvze]THANK YOU![/size:1egadvze] for the photos of the brake and clutch linkages. They will guide me in reassembling my basket case Cord.

Please continue to post pictures as you proceed with your re-assembly. Every photo is precious to me as I start putting my car back together.

--Tom

Unfortunately I wasn?t able to find any stubframe or outrigger number because it is all new repainted. But I?m almost sure, that I was the first who removed the stubframe (because of the original painting on screws).
Only number I found is on the gearbox. It is : T1504
Your right, the rods in a front fenders were badly repaird, but in general, fenders weren?t much demaget, and definitely there weren?t no holes for headlamps.
I can?t see any problem with steering - I checked it carefully - it fits good (except of very small distance between cardan shaft and main steering rod)
I found radiator rods in spares, but I?m still missing cooling propeller air cleaner and generator (even if it?s burned, I?ll repair it) - does anybody has some more?

What about gearbox cover symbol? If I had a technical drawings, or good pictures with dimensions, I think, I would be able to made a new enamled one.

Thanks for answers, Ale?-Hicar.

Today conditin: www.facebook.com/media/set/?set= ... 744&type=3

I put the VIN plate foto in my new gallery: hicar.mypage.cz/
I didn?t find any other plate for custom build, but the other things you mentioned I will have to watch properly.

Ale?-Hicar

Kay wrote: Hi,

the Cord specialists need the chassis number to tell you anything about this car.
I know the car as I tried to buy it (or the other Schlumpf Cord) in 2008. It's chassis number is 32122S. I always thought the body was modified later and the "Special" writing was something inofficial, added by a previous owner.
But perhaps the others in this forum can dig up something from their lists.

Are you the one who bought the car back in 2008 ? As I have no facebook access, I would be happy if you#d send some current photos via email.

Thanks!
Kay

I?m not the owner, I?m only the restorer. But you are right, the car is chassis number 32122S.
I have just made a picture gallery: hicar.mypage.cz/
I hope, it will be better. I?m going to give there all the pictures I made during the work on the car.

Ale?-Hicar

i have mine also from NC industries and are nicley made.

There is a place in Penn. that produces new windshield frames. They are $690 for the pair plus chrome and shipping. The corners pieces chromed are $25 each. They are produced by N.C. Industry, 301 S Thomas Ave, Sayue, PA 18840. Phone 570-888-6216. I have a pair and they are just fine.

I'm far from a specialist, but to me it looks like a 1937 SC Custom Beverly with most original parts except the fenderlights and Marchal-lights. fist i thought it was converted by Citr?en with one of their own engine, but further pic's look like original engine, even though someone has typically cut a access in the firewall for extracting either the cranckshaft or timingshaft.
I beleve any car that came to Europe was complete in the first place, but noone can say for sure.
The Marchals may have ben fitted, wen the previous owner had trouble to find new flexshafts to crank the headlights in the fenders ( which i have produced a new pair just now for mine and will make at least two more for others , Keep in mind that Custom Beverlys are longer ) My Custom Beverly has the number 310121 S and ist basicly in the same state eccept that it has now a FB engine instead of a FC and the floor was cut for RWD and badly replaced. The Special Tag is a later addition, It may be that the front outrigger was bend in a accident, so might als be the Suspension-arm.
One of the previous owners did'n hesitate to drill holes in the Bodywork and also it appears that he used it to tow, despite the bar on the rearfender ! I'm wodering if you find the number 37 Stamped in the right front outrigger, once you have removed the right front fender ? Mine has it. I don't know what, but something is irritating me on the look of the rims. I belive the steeringcollumn-jackettube is under tension , as there is most often a piece of flat steel ( about 1 cm thick ) between the dashboard and the bracket. What is that lever, that is fitted where the radiodial used to be ? I also noticed a lot of swiches where the light handles used to be.
You still have the correct FC fiulpump, but a foreighn cover where the ignition coil used to be. The rod in the left front fender looks like repared to me. It might be that your car has lead a hard life, or had a hard landing.... There should be a stubframenumber on the roght side of the framerail between the two large rivets ahead of the large hole, DON'T SAND or SCRAPE but strip CHMICALLY ! as these digits where extreemly lightly stamped. looks like the STARTIX is still present on the right side.
Ashtray on the front should be central, can you send me a good pic of the VIN plate and Bodynumberplate ? Maybe you also find a plate that says custom build, blue and silver i think, Gearbox : there is a number stamped in the flange at the left behind the cover towards diffhousing. sideshiftpottentiometer is original. The governorlinkrod is missing on the gearbox. Interieur looks much better than mine but same type, front and rear armrest to fold ? Strange returnespring on the left, possably for reurning the clutch rod ? Looks like someone has cutoff the rearwheel-shelf-supportbracket, do you have the radiatorrods ? Grattulation for this car, even if it needs much work. I just have organized to have the windshieldframes reproduced. What is the car next to it ? I hope you will stay in contact. CORDially Philipp

Hi,

the Cord specialists need the chassis number to tell you anything about this car.
I know the car as I tried to buy it (or the other Schlumpf Cord) in 2008. It's chassis number is 32122S. I always thought the body was modified later and the "Special" writing was something inofficial, added by a previous owner.
But perhaps the others in this forum can dig up something from their lists.

Are you the one who bought the car back in 2008 ? As I have no facebook access, I would be happy if you#d send some current photos via email.

Thanks!
Kay

Hello, I have a question about supercharged Cord 812 Spetial, probably made for Europe.
This car came from Schlumpfs collection in Europe. It was equipped
with Franch Marchall head lamps (originally ther were no holes in a fenders), small lamps on a top of a front fendrs, distributor and generator was swiss Scintilla (everything looks very profesional).
I was tolled it could be because of lower duty (people in Europe were buyin unfinished cars). Does anybody know something abou it.
If you are interested in it, see my photo gallery on a facebook profil: renovace Hicar
www.facebook.com/media/set/?set= ... 744&type=3