Supercharger Removal?

Just to close on this the engine is back together and I've put about 60 miles on it. Thanks for all the help!

I would post some pictures but it looks like we have some severe file size limits now.

A.J.

I think that is a good plan and the best way to go.

Thank you again. I taking from your response that it needs to come apart to properly seal the gasket. We will do that. Also, I didn't mention it, but we are considering going back to running the coolant through the blower, so that would definitely mean the gasket needs to be installed correctly.

Well, it seems that the answer to your question is “it depends”.  To put together the unit correctly you will need to remove the impeller so that you can install the gasket under the cast iron cover plate and make the seal for the water connection between the cast iron lower housing and the cast iron cover plate.  Also, it may be that your gasket will work although I don’t know why it has two options for the location of the water connection between the two cast iron components.

Since it appears that you are going to block off the water flow to the s/c unit the wafer connection between the lower housing and the cover plate does not really matter.  You may be able to fit the gasket around and under the perimeter of the cast iron cover plate and install the gasket without removing the impeller.  I see a couple of issues with this approach:  1) you will not be sealing the wafer connection between the two cast iron pieces so it is a bit of a ticking time bomb if anyone restores the water flow to the s/c unit and does not know about the sealing issue, and 2) it is very important that the cast iron cover plate sits very flat on the cast iron lower housing, if you can’t get the surfaces clean enough you may wind up with some tilt in the cover plate which will effect your clearance to the impeller.
 

Thank you Bill. I will reach to Olsen. Just to clarify, does the impeller come off before installing the gasket, or can the gasket simply be laid on the housing without further disassembly?

Yes, it looks like you do not have the correct gasket.  Attached is a picture of the gasket that I purchased from Olson’s gaskets during my rebuild.  Also, there is a felt washer that prevents oil migration from the planetary drive into the impeller area (see the SC unit exploded drawing attached).  If you remove the impeller you can replace the felt washer before you reassemble the unit.

So we are getting ready to reassemble. Looking at the new gasket, it seems like the fan assembly has to come apart and the gasket goes in between where the arrow is in the picture? Is that true? You can see the extra holes and overhang on the gasket. Unless I have the wrong one?

If the water is eating the aluminum try using true distilled water. It is free of the bad chemicals that attack soft metals and plug up radiators My 89 Ford diesel radiator plugged up twice from the tap water we have in my town. I run distilled water commonly available is most grocery stores. DO NOT use the reverse osmosis water. You want the heated up to steam and then condensed back to clean water.


Gary Parsons

Thanks Gary. I will do that. Makes sense. The coolant is a big problem with aluminum over time, especially if you don't change it regularly.

By NOT plugging those coolant ports in the block your taking a chance. these can be easily filled with RTV and in the future it can be removed if you needed to. Just drain down the coolant. Clean the openings with brakeclean. Then wipe clean with alcohol and then plug with a quality RTV like Permatex Copper Plus. Its held in every engine I have built from the mid 1994 time line till present.  Being a zero pressure cooling system you wont be pushing the plugs thru the system. My FB engine will not have any coolant running thru the intake manifold because who knows how close to rotting thru the cooling passages are on these 80 plus year old parts. I learned from Randy Ema that they DO NOT allow coolant run thru the Duesenberg intake manifolds . So if its good for them.. Its good for me...


Gary Parsons

So having given this some more thought, these tubes are the returns. Given that the cooling system is non-pressurized I'm not expecting any pressure on those seals coming up from the block. So closing the in pipes and the outlets should result in a dry blower and eliminate any future corrosion issues from the antifreeze.

However, if I'm talking out of my fanny somebody please speak up!

  Forgive the dualing threads as I was trying to keep the questions separate.

So, we were progressing fine with blocking off the coolant lines, however I'm not sure what to do with the two small pipes coming up from the bottom of the engine that clearly have coolant in them. I'm worried if we block the upper passages that might create back pressure on those seals that don't look like they are full proof. Does anyone have any thoughts or suggestions on this? My fallback is to get the blower unit impregnated and go back to running coolant in it.

So to close this out,  we got the blower off and you can see the hole welded up nicely.   Also, we blocked the water inlets and will not run coolant through the housing.  The plugs can easily be removed if someone decides they want to put it back.

 

That is sound advice. Thank you Mike.

Most people do not run water through the supercharger housing. We plug the water lines but leave them in place to look like they are functioning. I have ran my speedster that way for 65,000 miles with no problems. I have been in 35 degree weather out west in the mountains with no trouble. Just plug the lines and you are done. CORDially Mike

Thanks. I did consider that. However it is in an awkard spot and I really want to check the integrity of the rest of the pot. Hence, looking for someone that does the aluminum impregnation.

You may just want to leave everything together and just drill and tap the pin hole and insert a plug with sealant and then grind the plug flush to the supercharger housing.

Hello everybody,

After spending 2 years rebuilding all the shift apparatus I made it a total of 8 miles before a pin hole appeared in the top of our blower cooling passage.   I have three questions:

1.  Is there anything special we need to know about removing the blower?   Is it as simple as lifting straight off?

2.  Any advice on where to send for the repair?  I believe we should have the entire assembly impregnated in case there are any other weak spots.   An recommendations?  The place we had nearby is now gone.

3. Finally,  any other maintaintence that should happen while the blower is off?  Replace the bearing in drive pot?