Head Gasket Issue ?

If you are removing cylinder heads check for flatness before installing new gaskets.
CORDially Mike

For engine oil use a good 30wt non-detergent oil.

will do and advise , what oil do you run The engine was rebuilt when the car was restored in the 80's Odometer shows 7500 mile

Hi Hooter, You can call me for advice, I'm in Eastern PA and been working on these Cords for over 30 years. I'm in the directory or send me a PM.

For the head gasket call Olsen's Gasket, since your car is an old restoration get the copper gasket. They are more forgiving for slight imperfections in the head or block. Check the head carefully, they are know to rot out from the inside.

There is no engine manual on the Cord Engines. The only things there are is the factory service bulletins. These can be ordered from the ACD Museum store. There are also the past Newsletters from the ACD Club. These have a lot of good information in them. The Club has the past Newsletters on a thumb drive you can buy on the ACD Club Ebay store. There is also the Transmission manual  which has information on rebuilding the transmission and information on shifting system, etc.

As far as parts for the engine, it depends what you need. 

CORDially,
Jim

Have you drained the engine oil yet? If water is in the oil you need to drain it before the engine is rotated. These engines do have a floating oil pump pickup because it was a design to only suck up the clean oil on the top of the oil pan. Clearly this was not the way to use clean oil. Our engines do not have any kind of oil filter but there are a few ways to install an oil filter today. Also note the oil pan drain plug is nothing more than a pipe plug with tapered threads. So some leak. And hopefully the threaded insert in the pan has not started to leak. Some did and owners tried to tighten enough to stop the leak but broke the insert loose. Then is a real issue to fix. Mine was internally welded and some have been brazed. These engines have a oil level float too. Its activated by the fuel gauge by pressing the button at the bottom to power up the oil float. When released you go back to showing oil level. You can drop the oil pan when the engine is in the car so I'm told. I have never done that. The drivers side head is ruff to remove in the car because of the steering column too. These engines have an odd firing order too. They fire all cylinders on one side, then the other side. These engines do not have crankshaft seals either. A slight vacuum is pulled on the crankcase by the air being drawn into the carb at the oil fill spout. These are interesting in design.


Gary Parsons

I have been going over the car slowly and checking everything , while most of the car is on great or better than great shape the engine may have a blown/leaking head gasket
Drivers side closest to the cowl cylinder plug came out with rust on it , my camera can see the top of the valve and its rusty , also the top of the head where the water comes in shows some old leakage so its possible the issue was before the car was parked, My question is where can I get a engine manual and parts for the Lycoming ? Are there any mechanics in the western pa area ? I have no issue tearing this down but always like to know someone smarter than me on how to proceed
All I have done is pull the plugs ( was running rich ) and sent storage spray oil into all of the cylinder's
and is there a master conversion sheet on the Auburn/Cord fluids to modern day fluids?

You need to get the transmission manual printed by the club. The transmission and shifting system is unique to the Cord while the rest of the car is more basic prewar with the noted exception of the styling.

Specific questions can be posted to the forum and there are lots of guys with great knowledge here who are always willing to help.

Hi Hooter, Congratulations on your "New" Cord!! I was wondering where that car went. I remember it from years ago when it was at Auburn and other shows, a very nice car!
There is no service manual as such, only a reproduction of the factory service bulletins and includes the parts list. These are available from the ACD Museum in Auburn. You can get the updated Transmission manual from the ACE Club store on ebay.

If you haven't done it yet you need to join the ACD Club. that give you access to the people who know the cars and have the experience. If you come to Auburn reunion, Aug 31 to Sept 3, you can see lots of Cords and talk with lots of knowledgeable people. If you can't make it come to the Eastern Spring Meet next year over Memorial day weekend, we haven't decided on a location yet but most probably is either Gettysburg PA of somewhere in Ohio.

I'm on the other side of PA, near Allentown and would be happy to answer any questions you have. I've only been studying them for the last 30 years or so.
Jim

Welcome to the ACD club. To find the best information about any 810 or 812 Cord please come to the Auburn meet the end of this month in Auburn Indiana. Its a world wide event and the best of the best will be there. Questions are welcomed. Check ebay for reproduction service manuals especially the newest ACD club transmission repair manual. The transmission removal is a huge job. Nearly every piece of sheet metal and front suspension must be removed just to get the transmission out. Its generally felt the engine and transmission come out as one piece for easy extraction.


Gary Parsons

I just purchased a 1936 810 from a estate auction and it is my first Cord , I am looking for the best source  for all the service  and parts manuals , The car was restored in the 80's by White post and still shows well but I suspect it has been sitting for at least 12-15 years , Luckily the auction house elected not to attempt starting anything which was the correct way to proceed I  plan to drop the fuel tank, rebuild the carb, decide on if the fuel pump is functioning  and then go drain and flush the brake system , change the oil and antifreeze , then try to get it started, clearly the transmission is a new thing for me but I wanted to get it running to see if I have to get into that I do most of my own mechanical and body work ( except transmissions and rear ends ) so I do have some skills I am located Southeast of Pittsburgh Pa in case anyone else is close by