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HEADLINER QUESTION
- A.S. KOLLER
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Have a great Christmas and New Year
Steve
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- wynlaidig
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- mikespeed35
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CORDially Mike
Mike Huffman
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- Terry Cockerell
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T cockerell
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- A.S. KOLLER
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Not what I wanted to hear but it is what it is and it will be done.
The screws in the center windshield trim seem to be attached with oval head countersunk screws. Is that correct and do they use a countersunk washer under the head?
The devil is in the details.
Thanks
Steve
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- Terry Cockerell
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The first pictures shows an original car as photographed by Rick Hulett.
The second picture shows my Cord.
Merry Christmas and a Safe New Year.
Terry
T cockerell
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- A.S. KOLLER
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Does the wire-on that goes across the top of the windshield go down the side post as well or does it end at the top of the windshield and get tucked under the top of the windshield post trim.
I have pictures of it being done both ways and frankly it looks a lot cleaner ending at the top of the windshield but which is correct.
Thanks
Steve
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- JIM.OBRIEN
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The wire should be inside the piping. Also if you glue the headliner to the metal pieces around the hinges you may have problems if you ever have to access the wiper motors. The only way to get to them is to pull the headling off above the windshield. The other option is to put an acces opening in the headliner. One way is to leave the access opeing open and glue the headliner around the opening. Then cover the wiper access plate with headliner material and screw the pate in. It is hidden behind the sun visors so you don't see them, but the judges usually see it.
Jim
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- Terry Cockerell
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I had to cut the original wires out as they had rusted in.
The attached picture was taken before the restoration started. The seats had been redone in the mid 1970s in the wrong colour material.
T cockerell
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- A.S. KOLLER
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I now know what I need to make and hope that in can make them.
I picked up a chrome plated brass 22 gauge x 1 1/2 sink drain tube" (about 38mm) with a 90 degree angle on the end . The radius about right for the straight pieces and and hopefully I can get the compound curve pieces from
where the tube starts its bend.
I will let you know if it works.
Terry, with regard to some of your suggestions, I did make new wires for the
headliner from the patterns that you were kind enough to send me Thank again. I tried using 1/8 in wire but felt that it was flexible for the job so I used 5/32" stainless which worked well.
I have not be able to get a definitive opinion at to weather the wire should be inside the piping or not but it is now a mute point because there is no way to re-bend the end of the wires without heating them to cherry red..
I wont tell if you don't.
I did make floorboards for the inside of the cat for the headliner and it really is a big help.
HOPE ALL YOU GUYS OUT THERE HAVE A HEALTHY HAPPY HOLLIDAY
STEVE KOLLER
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- Terry Cockerell
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Also I had made and supplied new stainless steel rods that were stiched into the ribbing.
T cockerell
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- Terry Cockerell
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The cloth is tacked to the wood and some glue could be applied to the metal strips before the wire edge welting is fitted.
T cockerell
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- wynlaidig
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- Terry Cockerell
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Terry
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- A.S. KOLLER
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I am just about ready to get my 37 812 Beverly to the upholstery shop to have the headliner installed.
The question is, how does he attach the headliner across the four open gaps in the windshield surround wood where the four hinges are located.
I realize that the wire on is stiff enough to bridge the gap but what about the headliner itself?
I am sure the upholsterer can probably find a way to do it but I want to be sure it is done correctly.
Thanks
Steve Koller
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