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1930 Auburn starting issues
- johnmereness
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That being said you do not need to be on the top end of the chart.
I recall a Brass Car that passed through our garage that SHOCKED eveyone that it was still running and it went on to tour for another 5 seasons before it needed a rebuild (and it ate a lot of oil and a billion dollars in spark plugs in the process - good news was that the exhust did not rust).
JMM
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- DavidK
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A1-204 Cylinder head - 5:24 to 1 ratio "Standard"
A1-208 Cylinder head - 5:75 to 1 ratio "Medium"
A1-209 Cylinder head - 6:25 to 1 ratio "High"
The 8-95 listed similar heads with different part numbers.
These numbers are from the parts book.
I don't know if your cylinder head has any markings on it.
I would say that if you have about 80#s and all the cylinders are within five pounds of each other, then you probably have good compression. Valves can stick if they have been sitting for a long time. The compression test is quick and will help eliminate some possibilities.
Dave
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- Curt Schulze
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I cannot attest for the accuracy in this database.
The bitterness of poor quality remains long after the sweetness of low price is forgotten.
Be of Good Cheer
Curt
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- nickg112
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I am not sure what the compression ratio is on this car but my guess it is only 4 or 5 to 1
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- DavidK
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- mikespeed35
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Cordially Mike
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- nickg112
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Dave, Thanks for the Auburn Eight data sheet. I have this information but this is a nice handy one page reference sheet.
Looks like I have everything set correctly. I may give this a rest for a few days and then check everything out again. I just think that there is something obvious that I am doing wrong and just missing what that is.
I have a new 6 volt battery that is fully charged. I do notice that when I try to start the car, I get a real fast turn over immediately. This high turn over or crank does slow down after a few seconds. It should be enough to start the car but there is a definite slow down. Not sure if this is related to the problem. I have an 8 volt battery. I have not tried this but giving it some thought
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- DavidK
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- pete kelly
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8-120 or 8-125 are BIG 8
8-95 etc are small 8
1931 is 8-98
1932 is 8-100
1933 is 8-101
Not to mention Salon models
The small 8 from 28-30 is basically the same engine as the later 8-98 to 852 engines. There are of course differences.
Small 8 distributors are on the drivers side of the cam and require a lump on the side of the engine and head.
Big 8 distributors are on the passenger side of the cam and come through the head close to the center.
Sorry I do not have an 8-100 cabriolet.
I do have a 1937 Cord std phaeton and a J Duesenberg project.
Pete
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- Curt Schulze
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auburnandyscar wrote: @Pete Kelley-he has a "Big eight" cabriolet (8-100)
Pete, isn't an 8-100 a 1931? He has a 1930.
The bitterness of poor quality remains long after the sweetness of low price is forgotten.
Be of Good Cheer
Curt
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- nickg112
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1929 and 1930 Model 120 and 125 Starting System.
This drawing shows clockwise rotation. This is what I have. I do not think that rotation is the issue.
I see a lot of comments. I will go through them later today and respond.
If the image does not post, cut and paste this link in your browser: restorecarsclassifieds.com/wiki/ ... pdf?n=2720
Thanks
Nick
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- mikespeed35
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- auburnandyscar
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Check out my build at:
www.1932auburnsedan.com
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- Curt Schulze
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it was a North East.
The bitterness of poor quality remains long after the sweetness of low price is forgotten.
Be of Good Cheer
Curt
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K Clark
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- pete kelly
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- johnmereness
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Do you have compression (sounds like you may have in 1, but how about 2-8 - it does not need to be anywhere even close to perfect, but you still need it).
Have you asked why this Auburn fell off the road in the first place (ex. did someone prior to you get the valve timing wrong).
Try some starting fluid as carb may be too far off - be careful with the stuff as bad things happen to people who do not know how to use it properly or actually do not use it properly.
And, I would start from scratch on the timing.
JMM
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- Curt Schulze
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It is easy to see when the engine is turning over and watch the rotor.
Years ago, I had a 28 Dodge Victory 6. My father-in-law and I were working on the starter and it somehow turned the engine over in the opposite direction. It had something to do with the poliarity in the field coils vs armature. I do remember having two identical starters that spun in opposite directions.
The bitterness of poor quality remains long after the sweetness of low price is forgotten.
Be of Good Cheer
Curt
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- mikespeed35
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- nickg112
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- sds1861
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Steve Stevens
PS: On a properly operating updraft carburetor, if you choke it and crank it for several seconds without it starting, you will have gas running out on the floor. If not, you have a stopped up carburetor or no compression / vacuum.
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- nickg112
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I tried uploading the schematic that Ivor sent that showed this but had problems uploading image.
By the way: I am still working the issue
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- nickg112
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Thanks for sending the correct rotation for my 1930
https://plus.google.com/u/0/photos/111689943310959066457/albums/6087489357386242929/6087489356059960994?pid=6087489356059960994&oid=111689943310959066457
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- Curt Schulze
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The bitterness of poor quality remains long after the sweetness of low price is forgotten.
Be of Good Cheer
Curt
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- pete kelly
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- nickg112
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My rotation is clockwise on the 3 Auburn.
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- Ivor
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Hello Nick,
i sent Pm not sure if you got it. If you have the distributor cap with the leads out the side you need to use the sketch above as a guide as the leads dont come out in the same order as the vertical type caps, you can easily get the wrong firing order if you just work around the direction of rotation as you would with a vertical lead type cap.
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- mikespeed35
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- auburnandyscar
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Be certain that the distributor itself moves freely for both advance and retarded as limited by the bolt and slot on the passenger side of the distributor's base.
Better yet,pull out the cotter pin and steering wheel linkage for now and manually retarded the distributor so that you KNOW it is where you want it to fire and try that.
When you mentioned that the distributor had been rebuilt, how far was it taken apart? I ask because one can get the rotor position"off" from the lower gear and slot.(seen this a hundred times.
I will be around all day, and can answer questions if you wish to call me. I will PM you my number.
Andy
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- nickg112
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- Curt Schulze
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Pull #1 plug.
Remove dist. cap.
Turn the engine over with your thumb over the hole.
Note the position of the rotor when the compression stroke is on top.
I'll bet it is 180 off.
The bitterness of poor quality remains long after the sweetness of low price is forgotten.
Be of Good Cheer
Curt
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- pete kelly
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Just a thought.
John
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- nickg112
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- Curt Schulze
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The bitterness of poor quality remains long after the sweetness of low price is forgotten.
Be of Good Cheer
Curt
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- nickg112
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1) rebuilt my Schebler model S carburetor (updraft)
2) new Coil
3) Dual point distributor synchronized and checked out
4) Piston number 1 brought to top dead center and verified with mark on flywheel 1/8. I then went 3 teeth on the flywheel past top dead center with spark lever fully retarded per Auburn manual
5) Adjusted distributor until one set of points just begin to open
6) Pulled Spark plug #1 with distributor wire, shorted the plug on the side of the block and turned engine over. I am getting spark and as a double check, I put my finger over the spark plug hole. At the point that I felt a pop on my finger I saw a spark on the plug.
7) To assure that I do not have a fuel pump issue, I have an auxiliary fuel pump the goes from a gas can to the carburetor.
<!-- s8) --><img src="{SMILIES_PATH}/icon_cool.gif" alt="" title="Cool" /><!-- s8) --> I also bypassed the ignition switch with a small on/off switch
9) New six volt battery
10) Verified that all 8 wires are in the appropriate order from the distributor
11) When I manually press the starter lever, the car cranks but does not fire. I have used starting fluid and also put a few drops of fuel down spark plug hole number 1.
I do not get a pop or an explosion of any kind. It almost seems like the car is not anywhere near top dead center but I know it is. I am getting fuel and spark. What is missing and what should I try next? I appreciate any help.
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