1931 Auburn Sedan Distributor Question

Do check the shaft for side to side play (the bushing often goes bad) - just grab the center shaft and try to rock it back and forth. I had a Packard have the rotor get caught in the cap due to having too much wear - that was a couple hundred dollar problem - glad it was not a V-12 or that would have been a thousand plus dollar problem (and probably would have caught it had I not ignored to focus on other engine issues).

As everyone mentioned, the rotational play is due to the counterbalance weights.

Keep in mind that it is advised that the syn. of the points not be off more than 1 or 2 degrees.
CORDially Mike

Thank you all for the replies to my question. Sorry for any confusion. I was referring to the rotational play with the rotor. It sounds like the play that I am seeing is acceptable and is for the timing advance. I worked with the points today and it now starts quickly and sounds strong.

Thanks,

TR

I can?t imagine a side play about 1/4" at a distributor shaft, nearly impossible. No engine could run long enough to wear out a distributor that much.
Possibly you are talking about the "back and forth"-play of the rotor, caused by the auto advance mechanism?

Andreas

Side to side play of 1/4 inch on any distributor shaft is totally un-acceptable on any distributor ;and will cause all sorts of severe ignition issues & engine running & performance issues~~~

ie:
severe contact point bounce
incorrect & eratic ignition point dwell & timing
severe misfiring
poor & incorrect ignition advancement
premature breakage of points
center ignition rotor possibly hitting inside of cap tower contact areas.

In short~
Your engine will never ever run very well at all with 1/4 inch of top shaft side play , and the resulting contact point cam, side play & severe ignition point bounce.

It sounds like the distributor shaft in this engine ran for many years without proper oil, or light grease, lubrication at the top shaft bearing bushing .
There is usually a felt wick to retain some oil, or light grease, at this top shaft bushing area that needs periodic lube.
It was most likely never lubed~
In the photo above I believe I see a grease cup unit on the distributor's top/side that shound be filled-up with light grease & given a slight clockwise turn-in every so often to force some lube into the upper shaft bushing.

I would look for another old distributor in far better condition ; or at the very least have new bronze bearing bushings installed in your old distributor unit & perhapps also a new distributor shaft as it may well be severly worn also.

Thanks for the reply. On my distributor question I was talking about side play. I am not familiar with these yet so it may be normal to have some play in it.

Thanks,

No eBay APP ID and/or Cert ID defined in Kunena configuration

olvette64 wrote: Thank you to everyone for their reply on my distributor. I plan to use the original distributor with the dual points. Are the points, cap, rotor and condenser still available through NAPA or will I need to find new old stock? If they are available does anyone have any part numbers or a place they recommend to buy them. I also noticed that my distributor shaft has some play in it about 1/4 inch. Is this normal or should it be solild?

Thanks,

there is just a complete set at Ebay:

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Regards
Andreas

I presume you are talking about end play not side play. !/4" is way to much end play. Every time the engine speed would change the timing would change because the shaft would walk up and down. I checked a L-29 dist. I have it it was .012, as you can see not 1/4".
CORDially Mike

Thank you to everyone for their reply on my distributor. I plan to use the original distributor with the dual points. Are the points, cap, rotor and condenser still available through NAPA or will I need to find new old stock? If they are available does anyone have any part numbers or a place they recommend to buy them. I also noticed that my distributor shaft has some play in it about 1/4 inch. Is this normal or should it be solild?

Thanks,

I've just use a timing light on mine. If your flywheel has a tdc mark for cyl 1 and another tdc mark for cyl 6, then just use a timing light. Put your light on cyl 1 plug wire and set the first set of points. Then put your timing light on cyl 6 plug wire and set the other set of points using the mark for tdc #6. If you only have a tdc mark for cyl #1, you may want to add another for future use.

I use a similar method to Pat, A machined perspex ring marked exactly at 45 degrees, the pointer bushing held on distributer shaft with grub screw, perspex ring a firm fit over housing spigot. Use a multimeter or rig up a light bulp. I would check you have the firing order correct as it should fire on all eight cyl even with the timing a bit out.

Another method to syncronize points would be to remove the distributor and take it to repair facility that has a SUN ditributor machine. Many of the older general automotive repair facilities have these machines.

I use the George Arakalien method, a round piece of paper marked in 45 degree segments, a bent piece of wire for a pointer, and a multimeter.

Hello;
Your car will run fine on the original dual point distributor. You just need to find a member who has a synchronizing tool and is willing to do it for you. You will have a lot less problems, now and later, By just getting your original distributor right.
Steve Stevens

Hello,
I have a 1931 Auburn Sedan with the Lycoming engine that I am restoring. I am trying to get it running and the points were pretty rough. It has the delco remy dual point distributor. I do now want to change the synchronization since I do not have the tool to synchronize them. It acts like it is not hitting on all cylinders. Does anyone know of a good replacement single point distributor that will fit my engine. I believe it will be easier to get it running with a single point distributor. Also does anyone know any part numbers for the replacement points, cap, rotor, or even distributor? Any help will be greatly appreciated.
Thanks,