Distributor orientation for 1933 Auburn 8 105 Salon

According to the AEA tune up charts I have for 1933 Auburn 8 the standard compression engine, "Stationary breaker points should open at 12 1/2 degrees before TDC [3 1/4 teeth on flywheel] with spark fully advanced.
If you have the high compression head it should be 8 1/2 degrees {2 1/2 teeth] I would guess the marks you are finding are either 3 1/4 or 2 1/2 teeth apart. I don't know how to tell if the head is standard compression or high.
CORDially Mike

One correction on the flywheel marks. The first mark has nothing other than a line. The next mark has a line and an 8, the third mark has a line and a 1. These marks all are within a couple of teeth of on another.

Thanks, I will give that a try. One more question. The flywheel has three marks. The first mark just has a line, the second line is marked with an 8 and the third mark has a 3 stamped on it. What is the significance of these markings and which is top dead center? These look like factory stampings.

...sounds like a fuel or carb issue. For a test connect the alternate fuel tank with the carb and position the tank above the carb, that way you dont need the pump anymore. Play with the choke control... If it still dies, check the carb.

both ignition points should be open about 0,02 in their highest lobe point, but never at the same time. If it fires always right up, I dont believe in ignition problems.

Hope this helps.

Well, I just reversed the wires as described above. I am certain that they are in the correct order. I put a little starting fluid down the carb and the car fired right up. It immediately died, almost as though it ran out of fuel. I put some gas down the carb and a little in the gas bowl by the fuel pump. I am using an alternate fuel tank with a hose that leads from the alternate tank to the glass bowl. Ther car does the same thing. It fires, runs for a second and immediately dies. It actually has not cranked enough for the fuel pump to be pumping fuel. I looked at the dual points. One is open at about .020 at number one top dead center. The other point is closed completely when the other is open.
I do not think I have a fuel issue but I could be wrong. Seems like when it fires it should run for a couple of seconds before it dies.
Any ideas?
Thanks

Nick: Keep in mind that the timing specs that you read everywhere are for the GU series engine. So they are wrong for a GC.
The tooth count for the flywheels is different and as a result would have a small effect on ignition and valve timing. As I recall the total tooth count was different by a dozen or so... I will try to find the count and post it.

I think that I am going to just move the wires in the correct position on the distributor.

I did have the distributor shaft out of the vehicle and the screw is really tight and I could not turn it. I am not going to put any additional force at this time. I think I will take the advice to leave it alone.

I am certain that I am in top dead center. I can feel the pop when number one spark plug is pulled and my thumb is over the hole as I rotate the engine. I then see the timing mark on the flywheel line up correctly.

I will start the engine this weekend and post my results.

Thanks for the advice to all.

I'm not sure on a 1933 Auburn in particular but many flywheels have more than one mark on the flywheel. Make sure you have the top dead center mark and not another.
CORDially Mike

It is easy to change the timing of the rotor, pull the distributor, look down the hole and see a screw in the top of the shaft that turns the distributor. this is a tapered shaft and depending on how tight it is , You may need to pull the shaft from the engine to loosen( don't worry it only fits one way) loosen the two parts, put it back in the engine replace the distributor turn the rotor to the position you want, remove distributor and tighten screw, replace distributor.

BUT if the engine ran correctly , leave it alone, the position of the rotor is not important if the spark plug wiring matches the rotor position
My 2 Cents
K Clark

First make shure you are in the firing stroke top dead center, not in the gas change TDC. Watch for the movement of the valves or use a top dead center finder.

If this is right, but the rotor still wrong, you have two opportunities:
1. the easy way: pull the ignition cables and move 180 degrees around
2. the original way: remove the distributor and turn the shaft 180 degrees

For the second solution possibly you have to remove the oil pump shaft too, depending on the construction. I dont know, but other fellows around here will know better.

Good luck
Andreas

I had another post asking about engine timing. I now have an issue and I am not certain what I need to do. I have the number one plug out and in full compression. I also can see the mark on the the flywheel. So everything seems to be lined up. Here is my problem: The distributor rotor is 180 degrees off from the picture in my Auburn manual. The rotor is actually pointing at number eight.
Is this a cam issue? Or, can I make 8 on the distributor number 1? If not, is there any way of correcting this issue without taking the motor apart?

If you have not seen my previous posts, as a reminder, this engine has been rebuilt over 20 years ago and has not been fired up.