Restoring license plates

I can help you out with the plate restoration if they are not to badly rusted out. I have restored my 1930 IL plates for my Jordan. And did it two ways, one looks like the original stile, and the other looks like as if it was a new plate (real shiny). I like the old look the best. e-mail me with any of your questions and I can e-mail some photos of the plates. I have a 1927 IL plate that I have up for sale at this time and looks good I wish I had a car to put it on. This(1927 IL plate) was my first try at the plate restoration thing. Came out real good. I could not spend what they wanted to do this for me. Plus I like to do what I can my self. This leaves the money there for other things that I my not be able to do. I hope that I can help. Just love the old cars.

Anyone out there living in a state prison who has some input?

I sprayed the background color first, matched the color ('27) to a late '90s Mitsubishi color; Sprayed plates in Sikkens Autocryl & baked; Got a brayer/roller, and played around with the letter color (white) using Sikkens Autocryl at different degrees of wetness/tackiness. Took lots of practice, wipe off your messy number attempts using 3M adhesive cleaner until satisfied. Use a tack rag every time.

Looks like a mint uncirculated orig.

john t-
At the beginning of the license plate thread you asked "how do you paint the letters without making a mess".
If a plate has a yellow background with black letter.
First you paint the plate completely black, let it dry completely, then completely repaint the plate yellow and while the yellow is still tacky, you use a thinner rag and wipe the yellow off the top of the raised digits revealing the black numbers and letters, the top layer of yellow becomes the background.
The waiting for the dry is time consuming, wait or the bottom layer will be removed also.

I know that 15 weeks might cause a problem in some cases. In my case, I got the plates right after I got the Auburn and am having the plates restored while the vehicle is being worked on over the winter, so there isn't any problem with the wait. Since the plate will be with the vehicle as long as I have it, it is worth the wait for me to make sure it is just right.

I know that he will do it faster if there is a need, but there is an extra charge for a "rush." Still, the price for a normal restoration is so inexpensive, that paying a bit more would still make it very reasonable.

Ken

About 15 years ago I had my Cord's plates redone by Darryl's, 266 Main Street, Duryea, Pennsylvania 18642. Phone/Fax (570) 451-1600. They still look great. And they sure as heck didn't take 15 weeks.

Hi Bill,

The 1936 and 1937 Texas original plates look great. If you can find them, there were none to be found at the local meets lately.

Depending on condition and number combinations, a smaller number would be an earlier issued plate. A repaint does not seem to help the value, they only have the original finish once.

There are several restorers selling and restoring these in Houston and San Antonio, Usually I can always spot a repaint. The lettering never is crisp at the edges. The original finish has a little different thickness in coating.

I have had my car titled with the vintage plate. I think it is a valid registration for 6 years. One less headache for the owner.

Weeks after I bought the repainted plates I saw a perfect set of original, unrestored 1937 Texas for sale a few weeks later. Just beautiful, unused, they vanished before my eyes, I saw the difference between original and restored. Ancient history now.

The restored plates just never look honest, plus they photocopied the restored plates at the DPS for accuracy and technically plates should never be painted or modified, but they overlook the details if the color is reasonably accurate.

When visiting Indiana I was astounded that the state only use one rear plate, that makes it a lot easier to find your year plate.

This 1917 set of TX plates is so rare is that it is a surviving set. In the old days the dirt roads were rutted that the plates would fall off so you were often left with a single plate. All that vibration left many of the mounting tabs oblong or broken.

The license plate restorers deserve there fee's, two hundred plus because they do magic with liquid steel and some acrylic paint. They can repair rusted out corners and fill holes so you can never spot the repair.

Your 1936 plates are not that banged up yet, just touch up paint and wax or buy a restored set.

I am very pleased the state approves the use as they look so perfect on a vintage auto. I am working on some project plates, and other states plates rules apply, working with state agency's may differ.

to anyone curious, first 1917 TX plate needing restoration, now all I need an Auburn to attach them to. <!-- s:lol: --><img src="{SMILIES_PATH}/icon_lol.gif" alt=":lol:" title="Laughing" /><!-- s:lol: -->

Hi Ken,

Good tip on the license plate restoration. I checked out his website and he says it takes 15 weeks... 15 weeks! Hopefully you can get in line and FEDEX your plates to him just in time to be worked on.

I don't want to leave my Cord in the garage for 4 months waiting on plates. I am going to call him and see if he can do a just-in-time restoration.

These are my plates. They are unrestored and very usable. It's neat seeing something in original condition versus restored. But that "new look" is irresistable!

If he doesn't work that way, I will have to coordinate the plate restoration with my engine transplant.

I can't tell you how to restore a plate, but I can tell you where to get it done expertly at a very reasonable cost. I had a 1952 Michigan motorcycle plate restored for a BMW sidecar rig I have and am presently having a 1930 Michigan plate done for my Auburn.

The restorer is Rod Pearman and you can find out more at his web site at www.tagdr.com .

The work he does is beautiful and the cost is well under $100. I strongly recommend him.

Ken Gluckman

In Michigan we can use authentic plates of the year of the car. I need to restore two plates for my Duesenberg. I have tried to hand paint the numerals in the past and didn't like the result. Does anyone use some kind of roller? And if so, how?