RUST REMOVAL TECHNIQUES

  • Bill Hummel
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23 Oct 2005 15:48 #3805 by Bill Hummel
Bill Hummel created the topic: RUST REMOVAL TECHNIQUES
What's the best way to remove rust from a large metal area like a floorpan? Then what's the best way to stabilize the metal?

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  • Rustman
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03 Nov 2005 05:08 #3864 by Rustman
Rustman replied the topic: Rust removal
Bill-
I strongly feel that rust is best removed by sand (or other abrasive) blasting. If this is done carefully, it will not distort the metal. After blasting if there is the slightest hint of rust still in the pits, then phosphoric acid etch should be done, then rinsed and dried thoroughly. Two part epoxy primer should then be sprayed, then a two part urethane or polyester primer-surfacer sprayed is the rust pits are to be filled, followed by top coat paint (urethane enamel is most durable). I have tried the various "rust converters" or "killers", but only use those on areas that cannot be blasted as there is no way of evaluating the amount of unaffected steel until the rust is actually removed. I have seen panels which look like surface rust only, but when blasted look like Swiss cheese! In those cases, the only real solution is to replace the panel with a new one. I have also spent a lot of time with a wire brush on an angle grinder, and that does a fairly good job of removing surface rust, but leaves a lot in the pits, which then need removal with phosphoric acid or "converted" with a rust converter. Good luck, half the fun is getting dirty.
Jack

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  • Allen
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12 Jan 2006 11:53 #4225 by Allen
Allen replied the topic: Disks
Over here in Aussie, and I would expect that you have them there, is a new disc that fits on your 4" or 6" angle grinders. The disk is made from a type of stiff scotch brite. Here is a link. http://www.industrysearch.com.au/produc ... sp?id=8027
They work really fast taking of paint and rust and scuffing the surface of the metal. They cost a bit but all new things do. Some brands have a solid disk that the material is glued to the face of and other brands are solid scotch brite material with a hole in the middle for a shaft fitting on the angle grinder. These ones have a longer life. I have just stripped my 36 sedan back to metal with them. A lot quicker than a wire disk and better than a sanding disk. regards, Allen

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  • bcbiker
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12 Apr 2006 20:14 #4696 by bcbiker
bcbiker replied the topic:
hey guys.. <!-- s:idea: --><img src="{SMILIES_PATH}/icon_idea.gif" alt=":idea:" title="Idea" /><!-- s:idea: --> a company called "Norton" makes the metal working and grinding wheels such as those that our auzie pal has refered to, as well as
a variety of other metal and body work tools and supplies. Available at the pro supply parts companys.

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05 Dec 2008 16:15 #12088 by oldbanger71
oldbanger71 replied the topic:
I would sugest that you only sandblast insidepanels which are invisible after, for outside and visible panels plasticblasting works well, it removes all traces of filler, bondo, putty, paint but no tin and the topcoat of steel rest's undamaged if not rusty so you don't have to hurry with painting, rust must be sanded after that edgeprimer and normal paint layers give the best result and very long lasting ( my expiriance since 20 years ) <!-- s:wink: --><img src="{SMILIES_PATH}/icon_wink.gif" alt=":wink:" title="Wink" /><!-- s:wink: -->

The more i know, the more i realize that i don't know enough.
812 310 121 S

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  • Greg Frownfelter
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06 Dec 2008 03:52 #12108 by Greg Frownfelter
Greg Frownfelter replied the topic:
the products are also availble at your NAPA stores
3M is mfg these go by the trade name scuff pads, scotch brite, roto loc
hook it, hookit II go and look at a catalog
pretty neat stuff
greg

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