Electric Fuel Pumps

I would caution anyone using the Holley regulator to place it where a gas leak will not cause a fire. I have had the diaphram fail once on mine and it leaks gas at a good rate from around the adjusting screw when this happens. As was mentioned it is easy to repair as long as the car was not torched in the process.

Holley's variable fuel pressure regulator is available in two ranges --- 4.5 to 9 psi, and 1 to 4 psi. That's the one we want. It's Holley # 12-804. Also available in chrome, part # 12-500. It comes preset at 2.6 psi, probably OK for most of our cars. Can be lowered with the adjustment screw --- you'll need a pressure gauge for accuracy.

This regulator is used by the racing folks, so it should withstand modern gas. In any case, Holley offers replacement diaphragms.

I put in an electric pump a few years ago and after messing with cheap, dial-type fuel pressure regulators that either failed or were very inaccurate, I finally bought the low pressure Holley regulator Chip mentioned at a speed shop. I has worked flawlessly for over a year.

After trying to figue out how to mount it in a non- obtrusive way, I finally mounted it on a 3' straight piece of 1/8 pipe coming straight out of the mechanical fuel pump which is very solid. Even though the set up is not original, it is not obvious when you look under the hood and looks workman-like.

The holley regulator is made for two carburetors so you can either plug one outlet or install a small gauge there and have continuous pressure readout rather than adjusting it with a separate gauge before hooking up the fuel line to the carb.

Make sure you get the low pressure gauge, not the one made for high pressure fuel injected systems.

Bendix originally made an electric fuel pump that we used on Lycoming Aircraft engines such as those made by Piper. These pumps were very realible and approved for aircraft use. This business was taken over by Facet. I have used this pump on my 36 Cord for years and have driven car over 50K miles with only this electric pump operating and the standard mechanical pump removed. I carry a spare but have not had any need for it. About 3 years ago I found that this pump could be obtained from J & N Auto Electric, 1201 Glendale-Milford Rd., Cincinnati, OH 45215. phone 800-366-7100. Part No. for 6v Pos. Ground is 476089 and 476086 for neg. grnd.; Cost at that time was $85.01. J & N was a distributer for Purolater and Facet. I am not sure if J & N are still in business. Try searching for "facet-purolator" on your computer. I would be interested in how you make out. Al Light: <a href="mailto:[email protected]][email protected][/url].

John Trittschuh wrote: I am looking in to placing electric fuel pumps in some of my ACD cars. I have one in the Boattail and it runs better than any other. Where can one get in-the-tank fuel pumps for 6 V systems and do you need a pressure controller / where to put it? Don't want to destroy the authenticity but it seems to make a whale of a difference.

John,

Holley makes a variable flow fuel regulator that works in-line. It is adjustable with a screw driver and very easy to use. I have used them on race cars along with the small Holley fuel pumps and have not had any supply problems with them. They are available at most NAPA locations and if not in stock they can usually get them in a day or two.

Good Luck.

Chip Wright

Gail Shaw of California did the mechanical work on my Cord 810 before I moved back east. He put in an electrical fuel pump and it works fine 6 years or more later. When it worked, the pressure regulator made things run fine. However, as noted by others, the pressure regulator has failed. When that happens the float valve in the Stromberg carb is forced open getting more gas around than you want.

John,

With a little bit of research you might get be able to use one of the 12V fuel pumps. Most of the time a 12V pump will run on 6V, just a lower capacity. Depending on what the pump is rated for this may not be a problem.

You will also have to watch out for the polarity. Modern cars are negitive ground and our old stuff is positive ground. Depending on the internal circuitry and design this may not make any difference (that is you may be able to hook it up either way and it will run just as well.)

A few calls to the technical department of the pump manufacturers you should have the answers.

Good luck and let us know what you find out.

Jim

You first must find a fuel pump that's compatible with this stuff they call gasoline today. A high percentage of all current electric pumps are not and neither are the fuel pressure regulators. All modern cars have the electric pumps submerged in the tank and this is how they survive. I hate to kill the mocking bird but fuel pump failure and leakage are very serious. These statements are based on our experience with Auburns and Cords brought in for service problems. I think the regulators are even worse than electric pumps. If they have any rubber/neoprene or plastic/nylon parts, they'll fail. I do agree that they're certainly needed.

Stan

John-

I'm not aware of any intank 6V pumps. Most electric pumps were mounted externally until the late '80s so I doubt you'll find a 6V version. I usually mount an external pump back by the tank and tuck it in a frame rail to hide it. If you want to hide it more, paint the frame and the bracket the same color as the frame or maybe put a sheetmetal piece over it. If you can't find a 6V pump at a good parts store then Stan can supply you with one. If you get the right pressure rating like he has then you won't need a regulator.

Derek

I am looking in to placing electric fuel pumps in some of my ACD cars. I have one in the Boattail and it runs better than any other. Where can one get in-the-tank fuel pumps for 6 V systems and do you need a pressure controller / where to put it? Don't want to destroy the authenticity but it seems to make a whale of a difference.