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Rebuild parts and numbers?
- Pathirana11a
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- mikespeed35
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CORDially Mike
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- rickekd
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I am back with another question. I took apart my damper and was going to cut and put cork in until I read the last service bulletin in the shop manual. it looks like in1933 they started using a cork graphite friction disk. As the ones I removed were all stuck to the plates and broken I know they were not working and I thought they were just dirty cork.
I am going to presume the new rubber impregnated gasket material I was about to use is incorrect.
So what should I use?
Thanks in advance, Kory
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- rickekd
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Kory
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- mikespeed35
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with a repair you are contemplating is 50%. Not very good odds when you don't find out until you get the motor running' then the failure!
CORDially Mike
Mike Huffman
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- rickekd
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Kory
Kory
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- mikespeed35
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- mikespeed35
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- auburn653
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May be worthwhile to have spares, etc.
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- rickekd
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The other bad news is I found the tranny case had been broken and rewelded. It looks like all of the damage was outside of the inner case so I am not too concerned about gear alignment from the wielding. I still have to find the serial number of the tranny it must be under a layer of paint so I can identify a cluster gear.
Kory
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- mikespeed35
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- rickekd
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Kory
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- rickekd
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The question about the rod bearings was more in the vain of I have heard of rods being reworked to use a shell that was similar to the main bearings. It is a custom made shell that is made out of bronze and then has a babbitt layer on it. They were generally held with a pin that was drilled onto the rod and cap. This was something that was started in the early years of automotive between pored babbitt and what we have now.
As to wielding the rod I have no interest in that as it would seriously compromise the grain structure a material that is under a lot of load.
I did not mean to imply that there was anything wrong with pored babbitt bearings I was just checking to see if there were any upgrades that were being done.
Kory
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- pete kelly
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- mikespeed35
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- rickekd
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Well I got a chance to clean up the block, tranny, and diff with the pressure washer day before yesterday. Boy what a mess. I don't know how many years this thing was together but all of the fluids were like soft wax with coal dust mixed in.
Last night I had a little time after work and cleaned the pistons in the solvent bath and was surprised to find the engine number stamped on the rods. I was also surprised when I finally got the carbon off the piston top to see numbers on it mostly over stamped. (See pictures) I am curious about the + number on top it looks like a 0 over top of a 3. I set up my dial boar gauge last night I will know more about the bore today.
Now for the bad news. I found several rod bearings cracking So todays question is are these rods best done as babbitt or can you have them redone and put inserts in? Seems like I have heard of this for the 810/812 cord engine however I am not sure about this one. Also who is a good source for main bearings.
Kory
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- mikespeed35
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- rickekd
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Kory
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- mikespeed35
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I do have one question for anyone that would care to chime in. How do you get the pistons back into the engine. I gave up trying to take them out past the crank like it says in the service manual and I just pulled the block apart. Not the right way to do it I am sure however it was getting late in the day and I just wanted to get a look at the bearings and see how bad things were.
I probably should start a new thread on this as it is getting more in to the how to questions than where to get parts.
Kory
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- rickekd
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I did a little looking out on the forum and did not find any discussion on where to find these parts or who rebuilds them. Any info would be appreciated.
Thanks Kory
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- 1748 S
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rickekd wrote: JMM,
Thanks for the encouraging words. I am on a path to do just that. The only wild card is the windshield right now. I will say every time I work on it I find another part that was cleverly repaired. Maybe not factory correct but it did work.
Kory
Cleverly repaired items is how I have found my 37 812 Cord. Someone gas welded another rear bumper bracket to the original bracket. I took pictures and posted them to the 812 forum and someone else pointed it out to me. Then the oil pan had a piece of 1/2 inch angle iron gas welded to the entire pan bolt rail. Only idea I can think of is someone was trying to solve an oil leak. Then the instrument dash lights never had the rheostat switch wired in. Even the bracket had the mounting eras cut off. I was able to buy another bracket but the rheostat switch was nearly impossible to find. One club member has an original NOS switch but wants $500.00 for it. I researched what Auburn purchased them for and in turn sold them for. They paid .16 cents and sold them to us for .95 cents in 1937. Randy Ema has the original Auburn catalogs telling what bin location and who they bought from and the cost. He has an amazing treasure of ACD information. Its amazing how early mechanics tried to "fix" a problem but usually made thing worse in the long run. Cord cars are all the same.. But they are all different. Towards the end of the factory run they had to put what they had on the cars during assembly.
Gary Parsons
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- rickekd
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Thanks for the encouraging words. I am on a path to do just that. The only wild card is the windshield right now. I will say every time I work on it I find another part that was cleverly repaired. Maybe not factory correct but it did work.
Kory
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- johnmereness
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Kory
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- Curt Schulze
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The bitterness of poor quality remains long after the sweetness of low price is forgotten.
Be of Good Cheer
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- rickekd
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Kory
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After I pulled the carb and fule pump I started on the engine side covers. The valve covers came easy however the water cover bolts don't want to budge. I have a feeling I am going to have to add heat. Already had one bolt break off so I am not too keen on going after anymore bolts until I can get some heat or pretreating oil on them. I have the bad feeling they are through holes to the water jacket and they may be too long and corroded in place.
Anyway after looking inside I have decided to pull the engine and do a rebuild. The old mechanic in me just cant patch it up and make it run when I know looking inside it needs rebuilt. 90+ year old gaskets and oil caked up black as coal and gunk a half inch deep around the lifters is a bad sign.
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- rickekd
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Kory
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- rickekd
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Ken is my next stop on my parts search.
Thanks Kory
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- mikespeed35
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The bitterness of poor quality remains long after the sweetness of low price is forgotten.
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- rickekd
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So now I am looking for part numbers and sources for my L-29 gaskets and brakes.
I need to rebuild the brakes, drop the oil pan and replace the gasket, probably pull the head and check out the rings, bearings and valves while I am at it. Also the tranny is leaking from the front dif cover and possibly the input shaft.
So I need:
oil pan gasket
valve side plate gasket
water side plate gasket
wheel cylinder kits
head gasket
differential cover gasket
update advice on valves and seats (might as well do them while I am there)
rebuild kit for carb
rebuild water pump
And probably a bunch of stuff I am not aware of yet.
I attached a couple of photos one of the car and another of the S/N and engine no.
Thanks for any input you folks can give.
Kory
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