Engine Install Problems

Epoxy would be another choice. Maybe incorporate a little "rebar" to give it more strength.
CORDiallyMike

Gary you could fill that hole with a variety of filler materials even body filler.
I believe Pebble Beach cars have had body filler applied to the engine block to give a good smooth "show" finish. Just make sure the sides of the hole are clean and have a rough surface for the filler to hold onto.

I had problems installing my 3 bolts on each side om my engine. I had my Cord engine in and out 5 times over a 3 year period. The first time back in, I used the old motor mounts that were 20 years old at the time that went fine. The 2nd time I used new mounts from Stan (I changed to new mount as a suggestion by my clutch rebuilder as I was having clutch chattering problems and they had been through the clutch twice and found nothing wrong, it did turn out that they were idiots and Ft Wayne Clutch fixed the problem but that is another story). The new mounts were terrible to put in, they were higher than my old mounts and took much prying, wedging, pulling with crow bars and using the car lift to go up and down with the car, and cherry picker side to side and to rock the engine to get the bolts in. After 4 installations my wife and I were able to get it down to 5 hours to get 6 bolts in (each time went faster). All I can say is you need to be resourceful to get your Cord engine in with the new motor mounts.

Thanks for the suggestion and pictures Terry. My trans and engine are mt.No parts are inside them. Are you thinking I put too much stress on those head bolt threads or where I placed the lifting area? I suppose I could have lifted from the center or bottom wow of head bolts too. Using chain gives me an exact lift where webbed type slings or rope has some give or stretch to it. My plan is when I install a dressed engine and trans is to make lifting pads to bolt directly to the top of the trans and the block where the intake manifold bolts down. I have seen so many big and small block chevy engines being lifted by the intake manifold bolts using a special plate. Am not in favor of that...
Sorry Terry. I believe I see what you are concerned about. I removed the other chain I had from the hook to the edge of the trans differential flange. So my picture appeared to be only lifting from the block. Not a triangle type lift as I had done. But for sure I balanced my lift by adjusting the chain length so I had a level lift. When I learned how to level a steam turbine rotor or shell we used a special Starratt level on the lift. We had to make the lifts within 8 thousands per inch of length of shell or shaft. Our running clearance was usually 15 thousands before the seals rubbed.


Gary Parsons

Gary the way the block is connected to the chain is of concern to me. My I suggest using a stout rope fed under the block? See my attached picture.
In another posting we saw how the engine was being lifted from Moonshadow with chains wrapped around the exhaust manifolds. A bit more care can avoid a disaster

John, I searched my files and found this information from Stan detailing the motor mounts and brackets placement. It does not appear switching or flipping the brackets that mounts to the block will harm anything but the horns that mounts to the frame are side specific by the part numbers and the cut to follow the frame.


Gary Parsons

Thanks everyone for the suggestions and help. The frame mounted horns can't be reversed as Pete has shown. I don't believe the block mounted can be switched from side to side. It surely can't be flipped over and bolted to the block. The bottom two bolt holes have a very slight bend in the plate to match the block.
What fixed this mounting issue was removing the horns at the frame rails. then mounting to the block. then bedding everything down to the frame. It was that simple. Thanks Mark Clatin for the suggestion.
Many years ago everything was removed from the stub frame and professionally stripped. Then I primed it and painted it black. Then I installed the mounts. Never would I have guessed the slight amount of placement was going to be an issue. But it sure was. But now everyone doing the work I have can learn something.
Cliff... I looked closely at the modern bell housing hole. Your correct. It was made by someone but no idea why. Being cast iron it will be difficult to repair so am probably going to leave it as it is. If the next caretaker feels it needs to be repaired or replaced so be it. For now its not that big a deal for me.


Gary Parsons

Hi John
These mounts are LH and RH so cannot be flipped.
Here are pics of my car; The engine was fully loaded and would weigh a lot more than an empty engine and trans.

I am still leaning toward flipping the mounts from side to other side.

Just a question
Is the rubber in the rear motor mounts too tall or just not loaded with the weight of the motor?
Pete

Hi,
Yes, such type of problm will happen, check your program again

Another thing you can try is put a floor jack under the back of the engine and lift up the engine slightly so you can turn the triangular motor mount In the correct orientation. Then lower the back of the engine slowly and using a drift, get the holes to line up. It came out of there and it will go back in.

Looking at the pictures again, it looks like you might have the transmission mount under the transmission. I would then try and insert a drift thru the engine mount and “jiggle” the assembly to get one hole to line up. With threads in block. Then start one bolt and thread it part way. Then insert the drift in another hole and “jiggle” the assembly again to get a hole to line up and insert another bolt part way. You may have to alternate between drivers side and passenger side of engine. Be pain tent and don’t strip any of the threads in block. I also noticed a non original breather hole cut into your bell housing.

One of the causes why it doesn’t line up correctly is that I don’t see the front transmission mount and the engine block and transmission case is not at the correct angle to line up with the rear engine mounts.

Heres a few pictures of my attempt to install my engine n trns cores because of needed floor space. I was 15 years old in 1967 installing this but no idea how we did it. I removed it in 1976 by myself no issues. Have tried removing the three bolt brackets and installing the one bolt thru them. Nope. Can't get the one bracket aligned as seen in pic. Tried one bracket loose and off block. Nope. Any suggestions as you what I'm doing wrong? Thanks...


Gary Parsons