Cord Head Light Switch

A RELAY IS A REALLY GOOD IDEA !!!

I was told to protect the headlight relay as the amperage is high for the switch, especially with two sealed lights. This would require additional feet of non original wire runs for the two relay setup. They lamps are energized for many hours causing breakdown of the terminals causing dim headlights. My main purpose of me using a relay is to protect the original switch. I have seen two relays recommended but I was advised one is fine,
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No eBay APP ID and/or Cert ID defined in Kunena configurationNo eBay APP ID and/or Cert ID defined in Kunena configurationnot exact with a few flat metal tabs it should work as well and no-one sees under the quadrant.


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see this modified switch
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I'm pleased to know someone else is rebuilding and making these switches better than original.My investigation shows these headlight switches were suspect from the get go. My 37 has been converted to sealed beam long before my Dad got the car in 1961.Records show the car came off the road in 1949.


Gary Parsons

I have also used phenolic board to replace original switch contact board, but it isn't like original. I now adapt a modern high amperage switch that looks like the origanal switch. These are made for semi trucks ( many light bulbs) and do not fail. No need for relay and wiring additions. I have sold over 50 units in the past years. I use these on all my Cords. First thing I changed when I bought a 1936 Cord taxi this summer.

And more high temp circuit board materials:
www.mcmaster.com/insulating-circuit-boar...s-sheets-and-strips/
Ken

Here's Mcmaster Carr's stock of insulating circuit board materials:
www.mcmaster.com/insulating-circuit-boards
Ken

Gary, those switch circuit boards were a thermoset - bakelite - phenolic as JMM says - type of plastic, and very much like the old Formica tabletop/countertop material. If you can find any of that, try putting heat to it with a soldering iron and see if it doesn't hold up just fine. You can probably find some of that hardboard at electronics shops - used for electronic breadboarding, as we used to call circuit designing - putting transistors/resistors/diodes onto a board and soldering them all together. Actually, just try to find modern fiberglass-like circuit board material for making printed circuits, but without copper on both sides if such a thing exists.
And if you can solder all those brass buttons/rivets versus just clinching them, you'll avoid having the brass tarnish/oxidize with age. The oxidation begins making every clinched/riveted joint a slowbuilding resistor, increasing the heat of each joint when juice is flowing, and can eventually lead to burnthru of the parts. I know as I imported a 1953 Panhard X87 break which had been garaged in 1969 and left there until 2006 - 37 yrs - due to burnthru of a complex brass-riveted-together master control switch on the steer. column. The switch is so complex that everyone back then gave up on trying to fix it and parked it. Let us know what you find - there may be other uses for the stuff -
Ken

Also, time to add a few extra wires into your harness and put a relay into system - perhaps hide it under dash if you are doing a high point car. You can find original switches on ebay - they fit some other cars of 30's albeit take minor adaption - and a good anything in one will probably be over $100.00

phenolic resin

This is the auburn Cord head light switch contact piece in many switches of the vintage. Can ANYONE tell me what the brown material is named? It appears to be a non conductive resin impregnated fiber board. Its 3/32 inch thick. I am trying to repair this switch. Mcmaster Carr sells the brass and copper rivets and a non arcing fiber board but am not sure I know if it correct. There part number is 8549K43. Thanks for any help.
Gary