Difficult Fuel Pump Actuator Question

Gary, in then 1930's they didn't have the grades of aluminum like we have now. Some of the aluminum in our cars can be welded up while others can't. I have had some pieces that could not be welded even by the best welders I've ever met. My suggestion is to use inserts instead of trying to weld up the hole and tap it.

Thanks Jim and Terry for the comments. I have suspicions that some "mechanic" had very HEAVY HANDS. Have found other nuts and bolts larger than they should be.. I'm already planning how to repair the intake manifold bolt holes for the fuel pump push rod holder.I'm just not sure what the aluminum material is or how its going to weld. I'm fully certified doing TIG welding and aluminum heliarc is easy for me. Anyone know what the intake material is?... Besides being aluminum???


Gary Parsons

Hi Gary.
Do you have the book that covers Engineering Changes and Part Numbers? The description of Part Numbers covers nuts and bolts etc used in all areas like the fuel pump.
At some time in the past the 1/2" tapped hole for the spare wheel clamp in my Cord had been stripped then tapped 5/8" To return it to 1/2" I had to take it out to 3/4" then fit a tapped sleeve. Most areas can be repaired in a similar way.

The bolts should be the same size.

While restoring my top mounted fuel pump I found this odd use of two different size mounting bolts to the intake manifold.Was this done to allow some push rod to cam lobe alignment or maybe someone stripped out the 3/8 and drilled and taped to 7/16 bolts. You can clearly see the differences in my pic. The hole in the tapered plumber body is larger. BTW that pump mounting plate was very ruffly made. I had to run it on my belt sander to clean up the gasket surfaces on both sides. Even though its not perfect with the new gasket sealants I have no issues with it sealing fine. This engine will not be a daily driver as was the factory intentions 80 years ago.


Gary Parsons