Buying a 1936 Cord

Tim Gilmartin wrote: OK. I now see that Michael replied with a pic of unit number 704 just to show Matthieu where to find it.

yes, just to show... 704 (1704) is now located in Germany. The man in Texas may have been "Bobby Monical" because 704 was auctioned with his collection. It is still titled for the Glenn A Pray revocable trust, and there was an information that it belonged to Glenn Pray since the 1980ies, but I don´t know the history in detail. Send an email to Doug Pray but sadly got no answer.
unknown regards
Michael

OK. I now see that Michael replied with a pic of unit number 704 just to show Matthieu where to find it.

Car with serial number 1704A belongs to a man in Texas. So, somewhere along the way, things got messed up!

Matthieu: this is definitely an unknown Cord. I will forward the serial number and other info to our Cord historian, Ron Irwin. Add 1000 to the frame stamp (unit number) and you get the serial number of 1704. This is how the company came up with the serial number. As with the previous posts, beware of the missing parts. They are difficult to find and expensive. Best of luck. Thank you for posting the pictures.
CORDially, Tim.

and this is how the outer sill should look like if the panels are not restored:

Example of frame number on the right side of the stub frame:

Do you know from experience Pete?
CORDiallyMike

I'm gonna took pictures next week of the engine bay and the frame numbers.
Thaks all of you for your comments! And sorry for the mistake, i'm french canadian !!!
Mathieu

STEVEN.KUIPER wrote: when looking for the frame numbers they are about 1" tall but very slender and faintly stamped. if i remember they are between/near 2 large rivets just a few inches forward of where body mounts to stub frame. facing outward. if the frame has rust or any coatings on it they won't be legible. i've found a bit of fine steel wool with some lacquer thinner can bring them out. note:sand paper can destroy them. the use of a bright light shone across the surface sometimes helps too.

This is sooo true. I was lucky finding my numbers on the frame. About 40 + years ago I had the complete stub frame stripped at a shop called Strip & Clean.All the years of dirt and grease were chemically removed to bare metal.I have painted this frame and can still see the numbers. I think steel wool is the best idea with some paint remover.If in fact any paint is one this area. Would like to see the interior and the engine pictures too. Especially the engine sreial numbers to confirm this is the born with engine. For all this forum knows this car "could" have been repowered to rear wheel drive.


Gary Parsons

when looking for the frame numbers they are about 1" tall but very slender and faintly stamped. if i remember they are between/near 2 large rivets just a few inches forward of where body mounts to stub frame. facing outward. if the frame has rust or any coatings on it they won't be legible. i've found a bit of fine steel wool with some lacquer thinner can bring them out. note:sand paper can destroy them. the use of a bright light shone across the surface sometimes helps too.

Club Members: In response to Terry Cockerell's comment regarding the 1936 Cord Westchester being considered for purchase by Forum User "matfecto" I offer the following. The vehicle , images of Serial and CMC plates having been supplied on this forum thread , DOES NOT APPEAR in the Master Cord List of Cord Historian Ron Irwin as of the last revision of May, 2019. The serial and body numbers supplied , i.e. 2173A and FB1405 do appear to be in proper sequence to establish a Cord automobile. It would be helpful to know what numbers are legible on the right stub frame rail and the identity of the person offering the car for sale. Can the poster "matfecto" please supply this data? Thank you, Jack Richards at Chesterfield, Missouri.

Purchasing a Cord is for most people like me a life changing event. The initial cost is just an introduction as they can eat up the green stuff. It just depends upon how far you go. I wanted a Cord and bought a driver so I thought. It could not be driven as it boiled within the first few miles so out with the spanners and 2 1/2 years later it was a reliable driver. The body needed some work and it still had the original wiring so a decision was made to restore it and properly. Hind sight is a wonderful thing it would have been cheaper to save the necessary and buy a completely restored car but you wouldn't know much about it. One Cord is enough for most people and properly restored they are a wonderful thing to enjoy. I think the best move is to buy the best Cord you can afford and go from there.

Jim: There is so much to be said that we as members of the ACD Club are preserving and maintaining these wonderful cars. In restoring my 1936 Cord, I have achieved what I set out to do. "Understand in detail how these cars work." I have been fortunate to able to have the body work done, transmission rebuilt (Thank you Lee Foldenauer) and have the engine rebuilt, with a hand in all of it. My original goal was to learn in detail how these cars worked and how they were put together. As I reassemble the 36, I am putting this car back together bolt by bolt, and in a manner that I understand how they were put together and ensure that they are put back together as originally planned. I will have the interior work completed, as I do not have the tools or knowledge on that side of it. But, I will ensure that it meets my expectations. It is a long learning process, but very rewarding.

Bill Heisler
1752A

Yes this is an unknown Cord that is not on Ron Irwin's list!

Terry, Regarding you earlier post - I could never afford a fully restored Cord, but by buying one that needs restoration, putting in my own labor and many years of incremental costs I was able to have a nice car. Also doing it myself the Cord is what I want and I know it is done correctly! The side benefits are the friendships I've made over the years, the knowledge and skills I've gained and the look on my Dad's face when he first saw the completed car. Also driving a well sorted out Cord is pure NIRVANA!!!

This particular Cord is not listed in The Timeless Classic or Cord Complete. Consequently this is possibly another unknown Cord that has survived. It really is amazing how they just keep turning up. Jack Richards may have some information on this car? What say you Jack???

matfecto wrote: Are parts or replica still aviable to buy? I know the seller pretty well and he already own 2 Cord, he told that he "sould" have those missing parts but im pretty sure that's not gonna be an easy work to do. I don,t want to begin the restoration before some years because I have 3 young sons (5, 3 and .4 years old).

Knowing the owner like you posted helps. For me to "know" the owner thru you tells me even more. Owning other Cords and seeing this one tells me the missing pieces probably installed on those cars to complete them.
Answering you question about parts or reproduction parts is a simple yes and no. No trunk patches are being made especially the passenger side locking one.Its original design was YAHLE and it has a cover over where the key fits. There is another car that has a close fit looking locking latch. Door handles are not made but you may find some in personal collections too.Hershey swapmeet or the ACD festival has a smaller swapmeet where mainly Auburn, Cord or Duesenberg parts are traded or sold. It happens next weekend. The inside and the engine pictures can tell use even more as to what may require repair or replacement. Mostly the serial numbers that can be found on the passenger side of the panel under the open hood.
Having three young sons is a blessing too.I put my Cord "away" for 38 years while my family grew up. Please share more information thru pictures of this car


Gary Parsons

Are parts or replica still aviable to buy? I know the seller pretty well and he already own 2 Cord, he told that he "sould" have those missing parts but im pretty sure that's not gonna be an easy work to do. I don,t want to begin the restoration before some years because I have 3 young sons (5, 3 and .4 years old).

when old car guys muse about "restoration cost"...they start to sound like angry old curmudgeons who are bitter about the cars they own and, wish they'd took up knitting instead. i don't think that's really true. we all bought a cord because we loved the design. all the warnings are valid but, hey lots of hobbies are expensive, dangerous or a bit foolish. to restore any old car it helps to be mechanically minded or have a ready checkbook (usually both). but there are benefits, learning about history, overcoming challenges, being encourage by the help club members can give, the therapy of being alone in the garage intent on your task and, with a cord, owning one of the most well-known automotive icons that is considered to be rolling art. additionally, might i say someday driving the cord on the road & watching the reflection in every store window as you go by. cords are more difficult to restore but...... more rewarding to own.

Talk to any upholster about the headliner in a Cord or even worse a Beverly - incredibly expensive !

Depending on what your intent is, makes a big difference. Driver, show car, parts car, car to park in the barn and say "Hey, I own a Cord". Although the car looks fairly together, you will most likely find a long list of missing parts or items that are in disrepair. As with any restoration, inventory the car, list what needs to be done, then TRIPLE it. Engine rebuild, interior, chrome work, electrical, brakes, etc. can be expensive repairs, Would you be doing most of the work? I took on a similar project, my 1936 Cord 1752A, fully knowing what was there and not there, and still found more than I bargained for.
Bill Heisler
36 Cord 1752A

That 4K you just quoted may be the friendly price if you are a diligent and resourceful parts hunter with restoration skills too, but for the average Joe on the street who has not been at ACD products for a good long while, I would more than double that cost (realistically I would say 8K plus the cost of restoring the parts as well).

also missing. trunk latches with fence stainless, gas door handle, fender stone guards and bumpers...there goes an easy $4,000 for the exterior chrome parts.
i've heard "there's nothing more expensive than a cheap avanti" just put the word" cord" in and that works too. realize this will just be the beginning of the spending . however, if you've dreamed of owning a cord and the price is good it might be just the car for you. i bought a couple "cheap cords" 20 years ago.... and i've enjoyed having them the whole time ( still not done yet).

Give it a wash before your wife sees it.
Pete from Canada

Before recommeding a purchase you need to know whats there and whats missing. From your pictures I can tell you both front and back bumpers are missing. What you have are wrong. Also my guess is someone repinted the car and covered the chrome fence molding so nobody can tell you if its able to be saved or not.The drivers side windshield vacuum motor is missing as it the wiper arms. No wheel covers are seen in any pictures nor is the transmission Cord badge.Might explain a little more about this car too like price, engine and car serial numbers will tell you the history of this car.


Gary Parsons

What do you think off this bauty?
Should I vuy ? Thank you
Mathieu from Canada